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Author Topic: removing rotted wood  (Read 4751 times)

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Offline SD_9er

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removing rotted wood
« on: June 26, 2008, 02:31:29 PM »
Hi all...new to the forum.  I've got a 95 Jayco Eagle 8.  It is in pretty good shape, but last weekend a "bow brace" pulled away from where it was attatched to the roof above the front bed.  It stayed up because the screws were still attached to the canvas, but had pulled away from the wood.

upon inspection, it looks like the wood is rotting where the brace attaches (man, i hope that's the only spot).

my question is....is it possible to replace this piece of wood from the inside?...w/o peeling back the skin and all.

i plan to give it a good look over this weekend and am really hope to not find any more damage.  thanks for your help.

looking forward to camping this summer and contributing to the site.

Keith


Offline Tekboy46

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removing rotted wood
« Reply #1 on: June 27, 2008, 07:08:49 PM »
Welcome Keith. Most of the sideboards on roofs are a laminate with the outside aluminum skin, the wood, then some kind of laminate inside that sandwiches the wood. There's really no shortcut to fixing rot that will last and be strong. You're going to have to dis-assemble things until you get to the problem. You have to see the extent of the rot and go from there with a plan. Get a Webshots account and post up some pictures of what you find and the general area. Some of us have gone through roof wood rot and might be able to give you some answers and help you formulate a plan and what to expect. If you are handy with basic tools, there's enough information and popup top roof-restorers here that answers and advice will be forthcoming. Let us know... and again... welcome!

1979 Starcraft Venture
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Edited by - Tekboy46 on June 27 2008  19:10:01
Phil and Judy
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1979 Starcraft PU: sold but not forgotten.

Offline Xolthrax

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removing rotted wood
« Reply #2 on: June 27, 2008, 08:01:51 PM »
Unfortunately, there's not way around it.  That wood is attached to the skin.  You can remove just that board & replace it without disassembling the whole roof, though.

Good luck.


Joe

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Offline mrtuba9

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removing rotted wood
« Reply #3 on: July 01, 2008, 02:13:25 PM »
Hi Keith,

The end pieces (front/rear) are glued to the wood.

I replaced all four sides of my 95 Eagle 8 this spring/summer and am hanging the new tent this week.  I have some pictures, but not as many as I should have taken. I will work on posting them tonight  See the camera link at left...

I PM'd you with my email if you are interested.  If not, we can work through the forums.


Good luck,

Bob

Bob D.
'95 Jayco Eagle 8

Edited by - mrtuba9 on July 01 2008  14:16:23

Edited by - mrtuba9 on July 01 2008  15:10:55

Edited by - mrtuba9 on July 01 2008  15:27:24
Bob '70            [%]
DW '69, 2xDS ('98,'00) | '95 Jayco Eagle 8, '01 Honda Odyssey

Offline dupreet

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removing rotted wood
« Reply #4 on: July 01, 2008, 05:32:02 PM »
Sorry to hear you have some rotten wood....welcome to the club!

As mentioned already, it is not an impossible task to fix one section that is damaged.  You will probably find that the rot you see is part of a bigger section. I pulled my old bunkend off earlier this year to send it out for sizing - the whole board along the front of the pup had damage...water had gotten in in one spot, collected in the aluminum 'U' trim along the bottom of the board, and spread the decay.  My personal remedy has been to use pressure-treated wood, Gorilla Glue, and Stainless or coated screws for the repair.  Some folks don't like the idea of PT wood, but it is insect and moisture resistant.

I have some pictures of some of my sidewall repairs...kinda similar to the side pieces on the roof.

Later,

Todd

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Offline SD_9er

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removing rotted wood
« Reply #5 on: July 01, 2008, 05:47:58 PM »
Thanks for everyone for he replies...all very helpful...mrtuba9, thanks for the pix...you may have scared me into having in done by an rv service dept. :-)

well, i got a better look at it over the weekend...and for the most part, it is only on the front portion of the roof...the middle 1/3 of the wood is pretty much tobacco...and it's just like dupreet said, the water collected along the bottom "u" trim starting at the center seam and working outwards...i'm just glad that i caught it as early as i did...

so, has anyone had this kind of thing repaired at a shop?...any estimate on what i may cost to fix.  thanks again to everyone...have a great 4th of july weekend...let's pop the pups and crack a few coldies to celebrate...Keith


Offline Big_kid

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removing rotted wood
« Reply #6 on: July 01, 2008, 07:13:53 PM »
Your Jayco may or may not be similar to my '68 Starcraft. I replaced the front board on the roof recently, there's 2 or 3 pics in my gallery linked to the left.

Good luck, and welcome to the portal!

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Offline SD_9er

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removing rotted wood
« Reply #7 on: July 09, 2008, 02:12:32 AM »
hello everyone...hope you all had a great holiday weekend...so, i got some pix posted of the trouble spots.  my first question before i dig in is...do you think i need to take off the roof to make the repair?...or crank it up about a foot and make the repairs w/ the roof attached?

Edited by - SD_9er on July 09 2008  02:13:56

Offline Tekboy46

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removing rotted wood
« Reply #8 on: July 09, 2008, 01:45:03 PM »
I had to leave the roof on to work on it... no barn to work in. I undid the canvas from the end boards, slid the beds in then lowered the top down on to two ice chests on the bunk end beds. I put towels on the ice chests to prevent scratching the ceiling. Once the roof was resting on the ice chests I turned another turn of the crank to take tension off the cables. This might work for you since you're just working on the end boards. If a rain or storm pops up just toss a tarp over the whole camper. This isn't the ideal way to work on these but when you don't have a barn or big garage you have to get kind of creative when it comes to these roof projects.

1979 Starcraft Venture
1996 Ford F150 TV
Phil and Judy
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1979 Starcraft PU: sold but not forgotten.

Offline wrather1

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removing rotted wood
« Reply #9 on: July 10, 2008, 10:58:10 AM »
After purchasing a '97 Rockwood pup I discovered I had exactly the same problem.  The spot where the bow brace attaches over one of the bunks was soft as chewing tobacco (and had the same appearance) although no moldy smell at all.  Trouble is, I can't figure out where/how the water got in.  The pup had been stored outdoors and unsheltered, so it could have been rain or A/C condensate water.  I can't figure out how to remove the rotted part and replace it. The roof has an aluminum skin with a seam in the center, and the ceiling inside the pup has a continuous sheet of white plastic glued to the wood.

DW

Edited by - wrather1 on July 10 2008  10:58:58

Offline mrtuba9

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removing rotted wood
« Reply #10 on: July 10, 2008, 04:01:59 PM »
Hi Again, Keith.

If you look at this photo, the dark wavy strip was the remanants of the front plywood peice.  The golden foamy substance was the glue.  The scrapers were essential in separating the glue from the wood; I could think of no way to do it otherwise.  Some have suggested heat.  I was afraid of scorching the paint on the outside.  I did put quite a few wrinkles in it trying to get it off.  But as I may have said before, this thing had been in a hail storm, so it's pocked all over the top.

Also, there is a thin bead of caulk holding the bottom channel to the bottom edge of the plywood.  There are 1 1/2" crown staples holding the front & back boards to the sides, plus the screws through the metal corner bead on the outside.  

I was wondering if you could "sister" a board over the damage for the rest of this season so you can reattach the bunk end pole bracket, and decide about rebuilding later.  You would have to account for the thickness with the bunkend pole, but maybe a short pipe nipple could make that up (or a conduit splice???).

So why did I bother?  Well, I didn't know of the extent of the damage until I went to order a new tent.  The damage was a result of a harsh winter, outdoor storage, past owner neglect, and receding caulk lines.  There was no way I could put a new tent up against that mess.  And heck, in a few years, I might part out the tent and convert it to a utility trailer if we get a newer PUP.  Again, feel free to ask with any questions.  Our PUP's are identical it seems, and this is pretty fresh in my head!

Bob

Bob D.
'95 Jayco Eagle 8
Bob '70            [%]
DW '69, 2xDS ('98,'00) | '95 Jayco Eagle 8, '01 Honda Odyssey

Offline SD_9er

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removing rotted wood
« Reply #11 on: July 10, 2008, 05:28:46 PM »
thanks for the info, Bob...it is greatly appreciated...yeah, our pups are identical, so what you are sharing is golden.

i feel terrible because the rotten wood just happened this winter...the cover ripped and i didn't replace it until recently...after the damage had been done...not much rain here in san diego, but what we did have and condensation found its way in.

anyhow, i was considering "sistering" a piece on there as well as a temporary fix...i was going to use liquid nails and a matching sized piece of wood pressed on w/ a 4-5 c-clamps...i am sure that would do the trick and allow me to reattach bow brace and get camping soon.

i've been looking at your pictures and i am sure i could do the repair on my own...it's just a matter of finding the time.

here's thought...when i do fix it properly...what do you think about using some padding (like under laminate floors) between the skin and the wood.  instead of wood in direct contact w/ the aluminum skin?

i bet if it was set up like this originally, it would have been much easier to remove when repairs needed to be made...thanks agian for you help.

Keith

Edited by - SD_9er on July 11 2008  00:30:17

Offline Dredwolf

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removing rotted wood
« Reply #12 on: July 10, 2008, 10:26:53 PM »
One of the things I found out with the roof repairs is these pups are really simple, and even if you can't make it look factory, if you are inclined to tinker with anything, you will end up making a repair that looks really good.

I repaired one side of my pup to get some use right away, and learned a lot, the next side will go much easier, unless I say the heck with it and just rebuild the whole thing.

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