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Author Topic: Thinking of upgrading 5.30x12 rims/tires to 13" rims/tires on a Palomino Filly..  (Read 2493 times)

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Offline Micah

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After yet another blow-out, at least the 6th in two years, I'm utterly fed up with fixing blowouts and giving Big-O tires $50 and an hour of my life every third camping trip, this is getting ridiculous.

I've tried all sorts of tires and I always run them at the PSI suggested on the tires themselves.  Had the trailer breaks professionally inspected etc., the ultimate results being the same... blowout after blowout after blowout.  Enough.

The Kendra Loadstar ST175/80D13 Bias Trailer Tire with 13" rims I'm looking at are load Range C, with each tire having a max capacity about 300lbs more than my current 5.30x12 tires.... they're also the same 4 on 4" bolt pattern, so I think they'll slip right on I might not even have to raise the PUP... There's currently 2.5" of clearance at the shortest spot, I guess changing from a 21.9" tire to a 24" means there will now be 1.5" of clearance... is that enough? 

Should I have this professionally done if it has to be raised?  It looks like a minor project, other than jacking up the pup while I unmount the axle... plus figuring out what kind of spacer to use.... there's no leaf springs or anything to muck with, just two bolts on each side of the axle and it's just bolted to the frame of the pup, doesn't seem like a big deal...

Any input is much appreciated, thanks!
_____
Micah

Offline Rodger D.

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Micah

Find a set of 13 inch wheels that fit your hub and the
bolt pattern.  Have 13 inch Radial Tires installed on the
13 inch Wheels.  Even with the slight larger diameter it
will fit in the same space.

Since the 13 inch Tires have a larger diameter, their
"Operating Temp" will be lower.  The 13 inch Radial Tires
will have a lessor Rolling Resistance which is a slightly
better ( less ) drag on your Tow Vehicle.  The 13 inch
Tires are generally at a lower cost than 12 inch Tires.
You may also call this your Retro Fit since this may be
a later year factory change.

If you have had several tire failures in the past it could
be from using a very low quality tire ( not as in cost to
you ), driving way past 65 MPH, or a couple of other items.

Mount the new 13 inch Tires/Wheels before you go
purchasing a new axle and etc.  If it clears from the Tire
to the Trailer in a bounce, then it is enough.



Rodger & Gabby
FltSgt@msn.com
COS
Rodger & Gabby
FltSgt@outlook.com
COS

Offline Micah

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Thanks Rodger...
« Reply #2 on: August 02, 2011, 11:21:46 AM »
Thanks for the info, I like this idea.

I notice that all the tire/wheel combos available in 13" size with radials are 5 bolt hole rims, 5 on 4.5" layout... my pup has only 4 bolt holds, 4 on 4" layout.... is there going to be a safety issue or problem of some kind running 13" radial tires on a 4 on 4" rim?

I can get standard solid 4 on 4" rims (with 4 bolt holes) and then mount 13" radials on them after I get the rims, but I wonder why no one sells this combination? 
_____
Micah

Offline Micah

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Hmmm
« Reply #3 on: August 02, 2011, 12:59:46 PM »
What about just putting 145/80 R12's on?  Then I get the benefit of radial tires without the hassle of raising the PUP....
_____
Micah

Offline Aladin Sane

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I made the switch to 12" radials for the same reason.  I had blow out after blow out with the 12" bias ply tires I was buying.  I have now had two full years on the radials without a single problem.  I ended up buying E range tires, they only cost a few bucks more.

Here is by far the best price I could find.

http://www.trailertiresandwheels.com/site/1284278/page/2685239
1996 Viking 2006 [PU]
2003 Ford F250 Crew Cab [TV]

Offline Micah

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Thanks Aladin...
« Reply #5 on: August 02, 2011, 04:41:48 PM »
I've had so many blowouts with the bias-ply's that I've become nervous about the rims themselves on my pup, they've spent a pretty ridiculous amount of time rolling down the road without a functioning tire to protect them.

So I bought 3x 12" rim/tire combos, nice new aluminum rims all mounted with Kenda 145/80R12's, all D class.  Hopefully that will be enough to solve my problems.  If not I guess I'll drop another $150+ on E class tires.  Unfortunately the packaged rim/tire combo only came with D class. 

Now if only they would all get here before Saturday when I next head out.  If they don't I'm reduced to rolling on my utter garbage 5.30x12 bias plies, which are all different brands and I'm absolutely certain won't make the trip without at least one blowout  [V]
_____
Micah

Offline Aladin Sane

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Welcome to the peace and serenity that comes with good radial trailer tires.  I can really feel the pain you where experiencing with those crappy old bias ply tires.
1996 Viking 2006 [PU]
2003 Ford F250 Crew Cab [TV]

Offline sydnisamsofi

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ok so this may be a stupid question but when determining load rating which weight do I need to be looking at? 
Lee, Beth & 3 mini schnauzers
2007 Starcraft Centennial 3608
2007 Dodge RAM 1500

Offline Micah

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ok so this may be a stupid question but when determining load rating which weight do I need to be looking at?

Not stupid at all, I'm not exactly sure but I think it goes something like this:

First find the gross weight of your PUP, it should be in the manual, you're looking at the weight of the PUP when not attached to your tow vehicle.

Let's say your PUP has a gross weight of 2,000lbs.  I've read that about 10% of that weight will be transferred to the tow vehicle when the PUP is attached, so 2,000 x .90= 1,800lbs.

Now add back the rough weight of anything you store in the PUP while traveling including water, say 100lbs gear/water (no idea of this is realistic, it's just for argument's sake) 1,800 + 100 = 1,900lbs

So you're towing weight is 1,900 lbs.  Divide that by 2 (since you have two tires on the pup), 1,900/2 = 950lbs per tire.

So if I did that all correctly my fictitious PUP would need each tire to have an absolute MINIMUM weight rating of 950lbs. 

I don't think that many PUPs are 2,000lbs but honestly I don't know. 

I think this all makes sense?  If not someone will surely step in and correct my very basic thinking on the topic.
_____
Micah

Offline joet

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   e-trailer has  4 on 4 13 inch wheels. I just received and installed today a set with 185/13 LRC tires on a ulility trailer. Honesly can't member how much I paid.
    The weight listed on the frame tag is W/O any options, so figure what has been added to your pup
I may grow older, but will never grow up....Jimmy Buffett

Offline sydnisamsofi

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Thanks for replies!
Lee, Beth & 3 mini schnauzers
2007 Starcraft Centennial 3608
2007 Dodge RAM 1500

Offline sydnisamsofi

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So my trailer gvwr is 2195 so 10% of that is 220, my sticker shows factory tires of 5.3 x12 C  which I think are load rated at 1045 then that's not much wiggle room is it?
Lee, Beth & 3 mini schnauzers
2007 Starcraft Centennial 3608
2007 Dodge RAM 1500

Offline Micah

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So my trailer gvwr is 2195 so...

This does get complicated fast, it's a weird system.

The GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating) is not the weight of your pup.  The GVWR is the maximum amount your pup *can* weigh, with all water, gear etc. and not be considered overloaded.

For instance:   My Palomino Filly has a GVWR of 2200lbs.  But the pup itself when dry (no water, no gear, just whatever came with it from the factory) is about 1,700lbs. 

That means I can "add" about 500lbs of gear, water, etc. to the pup itself before I go over it's listed safe max weight.

Hopefully somewhere in your pup's manual there will be a "dry weight" or something similar that lets you know how much just the pup itself weighs?  Then add on your water (8.43lbs/gal I think) and other gear to get your final actual weight.

But yes, you're correct, if you load your pup to it's full GVWR there won't be much wiggle room with the 5.30x12 C tires.  Especially if you travel when it's hot, or you travel at 65mph or above for any length of time.  The tires just won't be able to take it, I know this from having at least 6 blow outs myself with those exact same class of tires, 5.30x12 class C.

Which is exactly why I started this thread... tired of the blowouts, want better tires!  But I don't want to mess with raising my pup to get larger 13" tires on it, so I ordered 145/80R12 class D tires (12" 8 ply radial tires) and new rims for them.  That way I don't have to muck around under the pup, I should just be able to swap the old rims/tires with the new ones and be on the road that same morning with no more blowouts!  (fingers crossed)
_____
Micah

Offline sydnisamsofi

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Who did you order from? I have had one blow out and the remaining tires are old and unstable! Thanks for taking the time to help a newbie! [:D]
Lee, Beth & 3 mini schnauzers
2007 Starcraft Centennial 3608
2007 Dodge RAM 1500

Offline Micah

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Who did you order from? I have had one blow out and the remaining tires are old and unstable! Thanks for taking the time to help a newbie! [:D]


No problem, I'm a newbie myself!  Here's a link to the exact combo I ordered this morning. 

http://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-Wheels/Kenda/AM31208.html

My pup uses the 4 on 4" bolt layout (4 bolts, centered 4" apart from each other) and I didn't want to get under the pup and go through the hassle of raising it so I could run 13" rims instead of the current 12", so this was kind of my only option as far as rim/tire combos went.  I could have just ordered the tires and mounted them on my current cheap-o steel rims, or ordered the tires and new cheap-o steel rims (though I'd then have to have a local tire shop mount the tires) and instead of $400+ it would have been a few hundred... but I decided that along with (hopefully) eliminating my blow-out problems I'd also upgrade my pup's looks with these very nice aluminum rims.  Hopefully it all goes on easily!

FYI I'm only just figuring this stuff out, and haven't received the rim/tire assemblies yet so have no comment on whether or not this will be worth the expense.  But compared to shelling out $50 to $75 bucks on the road over and over to replace blow outs I figure it will be well worth it as long as these babies last a few years without issue...
_____
Micah

 


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