I replaced the factory roof gasket in our 1996 Viking (the bottom photo thumbnail) with forty feet of self-adhesive 1" D-shaped foam rubber car door seal. Talk about cushy! It's pricey but it sure keeps the rain out and doesn't dry out over time. In the big picture, if for some reason this stuff doesn't stick or doesn't seal properly, it's easy enough to rip out and I can always replace it with the original OEM gasket or even another (smaller) sized foam seal. It's not necessary to remove the corner caps, but mine were already off due to having recently sprayed the roof with bedliner. Read that thread here. Start off by removing each of the "stay" screws that secure the original gasket in place. They're located 8"-10" from either end of each side and end board. Using needle nosed pliers, pull straight down to start removing the old gasket. Continue by pulling straight down until the entire strip is removed. Prior to installing the new seal, remove any fragments of the old gasket from the aluminum trim, then wipe the gasket mounting track surfaces down with a naptha-based solvent. Final Wipe (the solvent used in autobody shops prior to painting) works exceptionally well and won't harm cured paint or plastic. Here's the end profile of the 1" foam door seal. Removing the red plastic strip reveals the pressure-sensitive self-adhesive surface. Again, this stuff sticks like crazy once pressed into place, so just press it in with enough pressure to hold it in place and try to make sure you put it on straight the first time. I'd recommend that you just cut the ends off square and avoid trying to wrap the corners as that invites trouble as there's really nothing for the foam to stick to. I didn't take a photo but I inserted a short length of 14" vinyl hose into each end and folded it 90 degrees. It's held in place with Marine Goop sealant/adhesive. While wrapping the foam 90 degrees would be the better way to go, this way seems less susceptible to the foam adhesive "letting go" or any corner deformations that might be caused by shrinkage. To each their own but this is what I did. Now I can back off my roof clasps to where they were when the camper was new! This is the profile of the original roof gasket. The sides were not in horrible condition but the front rear gaskets were completely crushed, brittle and hard as a rock. I called Forest River RV and they wanted a profile of the end of the original gasket. As you can see, it's just a little different than the Jayco which is wider at the top. Funny thing is, I paid about the same for the high end foam door seal as what the OEM vinyl gasket costs.