Not a ton of obvious progress this week as I've simply been framing wall sections. Here's the stack of sections I've completed so far. Both side walls, the front bulkhead wall that separates the storage compartment from the cabin and the two rear angled wall sections. Wow. Just went through the list of fasteners I've used to this point and realized I've bought 110 2"x4" mending plates! That's a lot of steel! It's also a lot of drilling as I've pre-drilled almost all of the holes and countersunk them to prevent the wood from splitting. Haven't split a piece yet! The mending plates will split the wood as well but it's easily avoided if you lay the frame on the concrete and make sure it makes solid contact with the floor prior to swinging a 4LB hammer at it. Just used a block of wood for the 4"x6" plates but I've gotten good enough at using them at I don't use a block for the 4"x6" or smaller plates at all. I've also been cutting the 4"x6" mending plates in half across their width so as not to waste them. At that point, they're more like a bunch of really heavy-duty staples. Nonetheless, they still provide additional support to each joint. Used properly, they'll hold the joints together long after the wood on either side of the plate has obliterated due to stress. Overally, it's run me an extra $100 but I think it's worth it as the framework and joints are so much more sturdy. Using as many mending plates as I have really hasn't added much in terms of weight either. Overall, including the steel angle I bolted to the camper frame to support the floor, I'd estimate that I've added a total of 80 pounds to the gross weight of the camper. No biggie IMHO! I had to take apart the bulkhead prior to setting the mending plates to it as it was 1/4" out of square. I'm really not sure what I was thinking when I put it together but, in my defense, it was an "end of day" part of the build. Thankfully, it occurred to me the next morning and I was glad I'd checked it prior to hammering on the mending plates. I removed the ceramic screws and used a hammer to knock the bottom sill off. Looking at it, there were several pieces of broken wood from the ends of the vertical members still stuck to it. I'm amazed at the strength of Gorilla wood glue, especially if the framing members are clamped and screwed. While I'm using their standard wood glue which is intended for indoor/outdoor applications, I found that Gorilla also makes 100% waterproof glue. Evidently, you apply the glue to one piece, dampen the contact area on the other piece and clamp them together for 2-4 hours. I was thinking that if the wood is rotten enough that a staple won't hold it together, what good is 100% waterproof glue? Based on what I've seen here, it seemed like overkill.