2000 Coleman Cheyenne Front Storage box Rebuild

Discussion in 'Camper Restoration Projects' started by RFryer, Nov 18, 2010.

  1. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

    764
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    Mar 10, 2009
    Hopkinton, MA
    As I plan on posting several pictures I decided to start a new thread for this. The front storage cover has several cracks so I had a local welding shop make me a new diamond plate cover for $165! [:D] It's a huge improvement in function and looks! Unfortunately The floor under it is a litte soft so I need to rebuild the compartment before installing it. [:!] Last night I started. I removed the lid, side door, screws under the camper, interior support brackets and any screws I could find. Now it should come apart (but doesn't proabably due to some rivets and butyl tape). My question to those of you that have done this, and I think there are many, where do you start? It seems some have taken the abs off piece by piece while others had started with the plywood. I don't want to crack the abs any more. Do the corner lights have to come off also? Those are some strange screws holding them on so I hope not. Or can/should I remove the entire storage box and just leave the floor in place? Thanks for any pointers!
     
  2. outdoorxman

    outdoorxman The mountains are calling me and I must go.

    422
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    Jul 31, 2006
    Kansas City Area
    I had major cracks in the top panel that goes around the lid. I had to remove the whole piece because Fleetwood sold it that way. Door and all! You might try carefully removing it to get to the rest of the internal wood.

    I had some wood rot on mine but it was confined to the side around the side door. I was able to leave all of the exterior facing on and carefully remove the wood inside. I found that the factory used generous amounts of silicon caulk on the mating surfaces.

    Look for caulk.

    Phil
     
  3. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

    764
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    Mar 10, 2009
    Hopkinton, MA
    Thanks, that's good to know. Did you need to remove any rivets to free up the front?
     
  4. outdoorxman

    outdoorxman The mountains are calling me and I must go.

    422
    0
    Jul 31, 2006
    Kansas City Area
    Rivets, lets see.

    It's been a while. I think I first took out the screws in the top panel that surround the lid. I also took off the drip plate or aluminum cap strip (in front of the bunkend). This should allow the top to hinge up from the front toward the back. You may need to get under the lid to cut the caulk so it will pivot up. I think this should get you into the storage compartment easier. From here you need to remove the screws around the door, staples from the flange at the top of the plastic side panels, and I htink there were others too and assorted screws on the corner brackets. Ours was a 2000 as well. I found that the side wood panels were actually three layers of paneling. You will also need to remove staples or screws from the bottom but I don't remember what all was down there. I think you can leave the lights alone. They only screw into the outside panels and the wirign runs between them and the internal wood walls. I think I had to drill out some of the rivets too but I don't remember. I think I got replacements from the local dealer. I found that Fastenall and other places sell similar rivets you are looking.

    If you need to remove the floor it is part of the main floor. They changed this on later models. I think you could cut out the bad and replace it. You could edge seal the floor panels with caulk when reassembling.

    Where did you find the rivets? Maybe that would help my memory.

    Phil
     
  5. ballard

    ballard New Member

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    Jul 11, 2009
    northeast
    My 93 came apart after doing everything you stated in the first post.

    The plywood for the sides was held into a grove in the aluminum rail that runs around the top edge. It took a little bit to loosen it up but the plywood came right out.

    Not sure if your box is constructed the same way though.

    Dont underestimate the strength of the caulking seal.

    Here you will find a couple shots of when I rebuilt one of my side panels.

    http://www.popupportal.com/index.php?topic=36287.msg256359#msg256359
     
  6. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

    764
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    Mar 10, 2009
    Hopkinton, MA
    Ballard, it looks like my construction is different than your model. I think I need to remove the aluminum drip plate in front of the bunkend as Phil mentioned and see what that does for me.
     
  7. outdoorxman

    outdoorxman The mountains are calling me and I must go.

    422
    0
    Jul 31, 2006
    Kansas City Area
    Ray,

    Here is a link to my Mods and Repairs folder. I didn't document my wood rot repair but did document the HW heater replacemnet. I also have another album of pictures of the PU I took to help see it. I'm guessing since they were the same year the boxes are the same.

    http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/554702453mnlrIf

    Phil
     
  8. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

    764
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    Mar 10, 2009
    Hopkinton, MA
    I finally got around to spending some more time on this and am wondering how to get the aluminum strip out that's under the bed in this picture. Some of the screws are not accessible and I don't think pulling the bed out will help. Plus that involves getting it out of the garage and setting it up, not easy right now. How have others done this?

    [​IMG]

    This is as far as I can go until I remove that strip I think. What a pain it is getting thes panels apart w/o causing more cracks to occur.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

    764
    0
    Mar 10, 2009
    Hopkinton, MA
    Anyone? I guess I'll have to remove the front bed [:!]
     
  10. outdoorxman

    outdoorxman The mountains are calling me and I must go.

    422
    0
    Jul 31, 2006
    Kansas City Area
    Sorry RFryer but I missed your last post. Once the screws are out the top piece should slide out towards the front. It might be difficult due to caulk and just a tight fit. Did you get it off and have you finished the repair job?

    Phil
     
  11. outdoorxman

    outdoorxman The mountains are calling me and I must go.

    422
    0
    Jul 31, 2006
    Kansas City Area
    RFryer,

    If your wood rot isn't too bad you can try this:

    http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/product.html

    Our TT has some rot under the entry door sillplate. Once I get into the project I hope I can use this instead of cutting and replacing. Right now the floor still holds weight.

    Hope these posts help.

    Phil
     
  12. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

    764
    0
    Mar 10, 2009
    Hopkinton, MA
    I've been waiting for a weekend with nice weather as it looks like the pup has to leave the garage for further work. My front bed is perhaps a little bowed in the center so I can't get to the remaining screws on that metal drip edge w/o removing the bed, which involves raising the roof and setting it up for the most part. Things are never easy!

    Thanks for the advice on how to remove it, that's good to know. I already put a new crack in the top by tring to remove it the wrong way.

    The sides of the box are bowed out a little from moisture, enough to not seal it well so I am taking the entire box apart and rebuilding it, as soon as I get that top piece off.

    Ray
     
  13. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

    764
    0
    Mar 10, 2009
    Hopkinton, MA
    Yesterday I was finally able to get moving on this project and in 3-4 hours or so was able to take the front box completely apart and off the camper. Here are some pictures:

    [​IMG]
    The top was a pain to get off but the rest was fairly easy.

    [​IMG]
    Both sides had some water damage.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    My helper!

    [​IMG]
    Ready for rebuilding, almost. The storage compartment floor is separate from the main camper which made removing it much easier. Unfortunately some of the interior floor in the corner is rotted and I'm not sure what to do there. I may have to remove a piece of the aluminum siding next to the door to inspect it some more. I may also have to remove the front bulkhead and a cabinet [:!]

    Ray
     
  14. Cliffbeach491

    Cliffbeach491 New Member

    129
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    Oct 13, 2008
    Hi, i just finished a storage box repair on a 1997 Cheyenne. I didn't have to take it apart like that and the rot was alot worse on the sides.the front panel was OK. In fact the wood they used was not particle board like yours but some kind of pressboard that soaked up the water, swelled up like crazy pushing the side panels out and turned into basically wet cardboard so it just pulled or should i say fell right out. It even had moss growing on the outside .I was able to pull the metal side panels out enough after i removed the cargo doors to slide in a new piece of wood. The floor was also rotted about 8-10 inches in so i cut it out with a small cordless saw at the first cross frame and slid it out then slid in a new piece. Its seems the place it develops leaks is where the storage box section meets the body of the camper at the top where the roof meets it when cranked down.I sealed all the seams with marine grade sealant.. Tthe box and lid itself was in great shape with no cracks. I picked the camper up off of craigslist for $500. it had a broken lift cable which i fixed,needed the outer door rebuilt and a few other little odds and ends but it turned out really nice. hate to resell it if i didn't already have the Westlake i would keep it..
     
  15. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

    764
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    Mar 10, 2009
    Hopkinton, MA
    I finally found a break from other projects and was able to purchase some wood and started cutting it out last night. It should be much stronger and look nicer with the fir and birch plywood. The thickness was slightly off but I don't think these things are built with strict tolerances.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This could be a tricky spot to repair as the wood is soft along the corner...

    [​IMG]

    Cliffbeach491, I figured I pretty much had to take it apart anyways as both side walls and the floor needed replacing. For me it would have taken longer trying to remove pieces and fit it back together w/o removing it all. While I'm at it I'm also replacing the bulkhead with birch. The original isn't too bad but does have some swelling and it just looks cheap, especially the sliding access door which I'm replacing with cabinet style doors.
     
  16. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

    764
    0
    Mar 10, 2009
    Hopkinton, MA
    I got the old rotted floor out last night and cut a new piece to fit in there. I decided to follow Audett2's example and bring the repair out to the framing for more support and to use the original flooring intead of plywood for the proper thickness. I do prefer the plywood strength but it's not an issue in tha area where it's storage anyways and never walked on. I think I'm going to use construction adhesive to hold the floor piece down.

    [​IMG]

    the final decision:
    [​IMG]

    I also cut out the bulkhead so it's ready to stain. Now I can start putting it back together finally! [:D]
     
  17. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

    764
    0
    Mar 10, 2009
    Hopkinton, MA
    Well I have to decide soon if I want to replace the opposite corner under the galley. The wood is blackened but not rotted. I did put some wood preservative on it and may leave it at that as I only have 3 weeks unil our first camping trip and replacing that floor requires cutting the linoleum and undoing all the plumbing to remove the side wall to get to the floor [:(O]
     
  18. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

    764
    0
    Mar 10, 2009
    Hopkinton, MA
    So has anyone taken apart the drain plumbing on their coleman? I tried to remove the P-trap last night to replace the floor in the other corner, lest I regret it later, but it seems to be glued together. I really didn't want to get into cutting and replacing the plumbing also as all these little things are adding up timewise. To remove the side wall, roll back the vinyl floor and cut out the plywood floor, I really need to move the plumbing.
     
  19. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

    764
    0
    Mar 10, 2009
    Hopkinton, MA
    Well last week I put the plastic back on the camper and when I put the side access door on and tried to close it, I discovered the sides are bowed out so the plastic panel must not be flush against the wood [:!] I have a few days to finish this up and try to seal that door, but this is not good. I can't even turn the key to close the latch. Taking it apart at this stage (leaving on Friday for the 1st trip) of the game is not an option plus I used 3M 5200 to seal the corners with the front panel. Then to make matters worse a mouse got in the camper while I had it open to work on it and ate a small quarter sized hole in the canvas [:(!] Things haven't been going well. I should have allowed much more room for play in fitting the side panel against the plywood. In fact if I did it again I would order a new separate box like this one for about $1k and build a diamond plate wall to seal the main box:

    [​IMG]

    new floor and bulkhead installed:
    [​IMG]

    replaced the old, slippery step surface:
    [​IMG]

    walls in place:
    [​IMG]

    my problem area before the plastic was put on:
    [​IMG]

    Aaauugghh!!!
     
  20. dea

    dea New Member

    4
    0
    Jul 6, 2011
    RFryer:

    Sorry to hear about your persistent problems but I thank you for posting them so others, myself included, hopefully, may avoid them.

    I appreciate you discussing and posting pics of your rebuild. I had just set up my Coleman Cheyenne to do just that same thing. Gave a quick Google search and it link this post.

    I purchased it in 07/2000 from TriCounty in Tampa, Fl. Used it for two weeks then parked it for two. After several days of heavy rains I went out to check it's status and found the camper full of water. The side door to the front box, which had only one center latch, had bowed and allowed water to easily flow in.

    I took it to the nearest repair center and they had to ship it to PA. A long eight months later it was finally returned to me supposedly with a whole new front box and all the wood replaced.

    Unfortunately now I see that wasn't true as there has been a discoloration in the vinyl for several years and now the floor beneath it is soft.

    Other things I have done or addressing.

    I also have shavings that appear in the rail from the slides of the Queen bed. Still don't know what I'm going to do about it.

    I also noticed an odd electrical smell at times and found the main power connector was attached by a loosely fitting rivet that was arcing due to a bad connection. I removed it, added conductor paste and TIGHTLY bolted it back. I also replaced the subpar breakers with household ones. The 110v connection to and around the power supply was horrendous so I completely redid it.

    The Velcro on the exterior front door has never stayed adhered. I am thinking of adding snaps like the ones that hold the door up while the roof is down. Any suggestions?

    The canvas near the slide abrasion is cut through, I believe due to the same action that damaged the slide.

    I don't use the interior stove so we use it as a place to put our small microwave, I added an outlet for it behind the stove that is connected to the outlet that the fridge is plugged in to.

    I added reverse lights to the rear bumper, boy that comes in handy when backing up at night.

    I found a small carpet remnant that actually matched the decor and installed it. It is held in place by the dining seats being removed and reinstalled on top of it.

    I can post pics of my endeavor if you like in this topic or another topic if you prefer.
     

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