Another Weight Distribution Question

Discussion in 'Tow Vehicles, Hitch & Towing' started by chartle, Jul 24, 2018.

  1. chartle

    chartle New Member

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    OK so I've pulled my 3,500 lb TT on 2 trips and besides having to stop for gas every 2 hours [:(!] it accelerates, stops and pulls fine with just the sway bar.

    But here is my issue, the rear end of our Jeep squats a bit. We are just at all the limits for needing one. My Jeep Manual says I need one over 3,500 lbs. and my front is just about at 1" higher than the back.

    Every time I think I have one picked out I would see an issue but figured them all out except one.

    I've looked at the Husky Centerline and the CAMCO ReCurve R3 both with the proper ball size* and built in sway control and the Husky Lightweight Pin Trunnion Bar where I have to install my own ball and reuse my sway control.

    Ok here is my issue my TT is really low, the frame is about 11" off the ground. Now my Jeep is not lifted at all and I use a draw bar with a 2" drop and I think it should probably be one or 2 inches lower.

    All the WD hitches have hardly any drop at all. The ones I've looked at are like 6" rise and 1" drop. Am I just missing something?

    Jeep with KZ.jpg
     
  2. xxxapache

    xxxapache Well-Known Member

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    You need an adjustable shank.

    Something similar to this:
    22011471_cur_17100_pri_larg.jpg
     
  3. chartle

    chartle New Member

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    Yea I looked one up for the Camco and it was another 100 bucks.

    Are the "dropier " draw bars universal?
     
  4. xxxapache

    xxxapache Well-Known Member

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    Yes, the hitch heads bolt on the adjustable shanks.

    I have an old school trunnion style WD hitch, an adjustable shank and a 50 buck Curt sway bar. It does a fine job with my 6500 lb TT and 40 year old low tech TV.
     
  5. generok

    generok Well-Known Member

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    So, depending on the head/ball mount for your model WDH, you should be able to flip the shank over to get drop or rise. But there's a range there. You will need to adjust the angle of the head (usually a process of adding washers to a bolt in the head) and then tighten the heck out of the head to the shank. (I use a breaker bar with a 5' length of Unistrut).

    Like you said, with only 1" of rise in the front, you're on the ragged edge. I get 1" of difference with my WDH (but without it I get 2.75"). I can eliminate that with some load bearing springs in the back, which MAY be a cheaper option for you to reduce the squat.

    https://www.etrailer.com/susp-2014_Jeep_Grand+Cherokee.htm

    Best of luck.
     

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