Bad delamination on a 1998 Coleman Santa Fe ABS roof

Discussion in 'Roof/Floor Repair & Maintenance' started by Peter Jansson, Aug 11, 2017.

  1. Peter Jansson

    Peter Jansson New Member

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    Aug 9, 2017
    Jacksonville, FL
    greetings everyone,
    New member here and just purchased a 1998 Coleman Santa Fe for $450. Overall it is in very good condition with the exception of the roof (no big surprises there). There is no leaking from the roof and the camper is very dry (and it has rained A LOT here in FL recently). The ABS layer is very badly cracked and delaminating all over. I would estimate I could easily peel off over 80% of it with no effort. And, there is a sag at the end of the AC unit. I think the ABS is beyond repair and just needs to be removed. I am thinking about peeling off all of the ABS and coating the under layer with Grizzly Grip. Any thoughts on this?

    Also will try and gradually working the sag out by supporting the roof from the inside when it is down. Once the sag is gone I would like to add a second inside support, like the one which is installed in front of the AC unit. Any thoughts on this?
     
  2. Robmoo

    Robmoo New Member

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    Aug 12, 2017
    Been doing some homework today and that seem to be the thing to do when the ABS roof deteriorates. You might also look into bracing where the roof has sagged from the AC unit. Mine bows in the middle so the roof doesn't seal correctly. I'm looking into putting a couple of blocks in the middle to so the center of the roof rests up off the frame. I've got so hairline cracks. So, I'll need to apply truck bedliner sooner rather than later.
     
    Peter Jansson likes this.
  3. RealDProperty

    RealDProperty New Member

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    Jul 24, 2017
    Hi Peter,
    My 97 Coleman sounds a lot like yours. I don't have any sags but the ABS is approx. 80% delaminated. I'm taking it to a place next week to quote spraying the entire top with a bed-liner product. I'll be removing the ABS top by myself and repairing any area's that look bad once the ABS is removed. Based on the square footage I gave them, they verbally quoted me about $650 to prep and spray the top. I know it would only cost me about $200 for Grizzly Grip but I don't have a lot of time and I don't have a place indoors to work on it. I'm totally ok with paying a little more to get it done and avoid stressing out over the weather. I'm also going to have them spray the black bumpers and tongue to match.
    I'd love to hear from someone who has done this.
     
    Peter Jansson likes this.
  4. Robmoo

    Robmoo New Member

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    Aug 12, 2017
    Where are you getting your done?
     
  5. RealDProperty

    RealDProperty New Member

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    Jul 24, 2017
    Hi Robmoo,
    A local company near me that sprays "Ultimate Linings". I live in Michigan.
     
  6. BobVA

    BobVA New Member

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    Aug 7, 2017
    Hello All,
    I finally got the nerve to attempt a redo of my Coleman roof last month. The hardest part was getting the weather seal loose from the top. What I found out was the more I bent the seal (over 45 deg) it would start to break apart. I'll just use weatherstrip adhesive to repair. I used my scraper/putty knife in between the abs top coat and the weather strip. The images below show what I started with.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. BobVA

    BobVA New Member

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    Aug 7, 2017
    In these images, my intent is to show the de-laminating process. I started where the AC was and worked clockwise form there. The corners were especially difficult. The removal process required using the putty knife and box cutter. The box cutter proved to useful to make relief cuts or scores. I didn't cut all the way through the abs but maybe half way. The putty knife was useful in getting under the abs to separate it from the roof. I was a little apprehensive about removing the awning channel for fear of it being too tough to separate. No problem
     

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  8. BobVA

    BobVA New Member

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    Aug 7, 2017
    Here I have all the abs off (omg, no turning back now). Not all the corners came off or all the abs for that mater, came off cleanly. I used a bondo product with fiberglass incorporated into it (last 2 images). This product is not for armatures. Problem is you only get maybe a couple golf balls worth of product to work with at a time out of a quart can. It sets up quick. I one image below notice the square of abs that is still attached. There is a metal plate beneath it and I decided it was not worth the effort to get it loose. It's not going anywhere. (cont)
     

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  9. BobVA

    BobVA New Member

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    Aug 7, 2017
    New day. Time to uncover. Sand with 220 and wipe down. I did the wipe down with the canvas. In these images you can see that the epoxy primer did not dissolve the foam core. That was the biggest concern I had before I decided to take on this project. As you can see I decided to use the abs covers for the bolts to the roof brace.
     

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  10. BobVA

    BobVA New Member

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    Aug 7, 2017
    This is the epoxy primer. It's a two part product and I think it also adds structural integrity. I'm not promoting the brand used just the product used even though I'm happy with it.
     

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    Peter Jansson likes this.
  11. BobVA

    BobVA New Member

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    Aug 7, 2017
    I used three gallons of Monstaliner tinted white. I didn't encounter any problems here. Tintable is a three part product. The kit comes with a couple rollers about 4" wide. Obviously I didn't have time to do a Bayside top with a 4" roller. I used a 1/2" long nap roller for simi-smooth to rough surfaces. I also had a extension handle capable or reaching the 15' or so. I started next to the channel on top and worked over the side (notice here that I used tile spacers to keep the holes clear). I then came back to the channel and started working towards the center of the top. I found it was best to start close to where you are and work away rolling out a nice thick coat. The first day I was able to put down 2 gallons. I had to come back after 24 hours to lightly sand and put down the third and final coat. I am very happy with the results and number of gallons used. The only thing left to do is get the weather strip repaired and get the AC up. I'll get the final images up as soon as possible.
     

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    Peter Jansson likes this.
  12. RealDProperty

    RealDProperty New Member

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    Jul 24, 2017
    Hey BobVA,
    Thanks for all your posts today! I'm getting ready to take this on also. The pictures below are what I'm working with. Mine is a 1997 Fleetwood Sun Valley.
    There is a lot of delamination and the corners are pretty bad. I'm not sure what I'll find when I pull off all the ABS.
    I did have a few questions for you...

    1. Are you replacing your black seal? Mine is pretty much falling off so I'll be buying a new one. I see them on Amazon but wasn't sure if there was a better place to buy one.
    2. I'll be leaving the 4 roof-clamp brackets on. I'm not sure what the screws connect to. Since you took yours off, do you know what they were screwed into? It's not through bolted so I plan on just cutting the ABS around them.
    3. I'm still debating what to do with the awning channel. We hardly use ours and the plastic on the awning slide is cracked in places. I'm leaning on removing the channel and awning from the pop-up, filling in the holes and painting over it.

    I'll be having mine sprayed so I'm going to leave it up to them regarding the primer.
    Can't wait to get this done!!!
     

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  13. BobVA

    BobVA New Member

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    Aug 7, 2017
    Put the old weather seal on this past weekend and it came up short about a foot. I'll have to see what options are out there then make a decision. I saw some on ebay and amazon. Looks like I just need to measure the circumference. Apparently Fleetwood stretched the time out of the rubber seal when they put it on. I have reduced the short miss to about 2" by pulling and securing as I replaced it. The problem encountered here was the seal kept sliding off at the corners because of the silicone adhesive/sealant. The rubber seal is a two person job. One person is needed at the corner to move on. I did it by closing the roof down to just enough to get the seal under and secured. There is enough pressure to pin it down to move on around to the back and then completely close the roof.

    The other two images show the roof clamps. One is cleaned of the permanently sticky product they used to keep the water out (use mineral spirits). The nuts are 7/16" wrench and the screws are star bit and the washers are about 1 and 1/4" inch. The RV stores have a caulk type of adhesive that you can purchase to secure the channel. We did use our awning frequently and I'm going to get the channel from the RV store and adhere it myself.
     

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    Last edited: Aug 29, 2017
  14. RealDProperty

    RealDProperty New Member

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    Jul 24, 2017
    I just dropped off my pop-up to have it sprayed with an "Ultimate Lining" application. The prep work was a bit more than I anticipated when I pulled the ABS top off. The ABS top was only adhered to back portion of the pop-up. It had delaminated everywhere else. However, when pulling off the top, some of the foam came off with it where it was still adhered.
    I removed and epoxied in the backing plates for the roof-clamps, then used a polyester filler to fair and smooth it out. I also added an additional stainless fastener to prevent the backing plate from flexing as the original bolts sit pretty low on the plate.
    Pics are attached... 20170910_104750.jpg 20170910_104753.jpg 20170910_104807.jpg 20170910_104815.jpg 20170910_133358.jpg 20170912_142846.jpg 20170912_142857.jpg 20170912_142914.jpg 20170912_142918.jpg 20170910_104750.jpg
     

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