How to repair lid of front storage box????

Discussion in 'Miscellaneous Repairs & Maintenance' started by zinger60, Sep 4, 2009.

  1. zinger60

    zinger60 New Member

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    Sep 7, 2008
    Northern IN
    We have a 2002 Viking 2465st. We purchased it last fall and have never had any leaks...so we thought. Yesterday we were cleaning out the front storage box and noticed that the floor on both front corners looked wavy. Well, we discovered that the floor is soaking wet and spongy on both sides...just the front corner areas. The large rubber gasket that goes around the lid to seal it has been messed up since we bought it so we figured that was where it was leaking. As we looked at the gasket, we noticed a crack in the lid that is about 18 inches long. I don't know how it got there or how long it has been there...maybe since we bought it. It is not noticeable unless you really look hard. Now we are thinking that the water has come in that way. The weird thing is that nothing we have stored in there has ever gotten wet so we really don't know if that it where the water was coming in. Either way, we need to fix the lid but don't have a clue as how to do it. It feels like thin plastic-type material. I know it would cost quite alot to replace the whole lid. Anyone have any suggestions on how to fix it and also how to replace the floor and with what material?
     
  2. dg98adams

    dg98adams Member

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    May 17, 2009
    Here is what I did to mine.

    http://popupexplorer.com/forum/index.php?topic=71059.0

    I did this before I heard about the ABS repair methods with MEK and Legos. I actually like my lid better.
     
  3. rccs

    rccs Member

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    Mar 16, 2003
    dg98adams, that is what I did to replace the lid on my 1995 Coleman Avalon also. Are you sure that your popup is a 1993 as in you post? I looks more like a 2003.
     
  4. maromeo

    maromeo Member

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    Jan 6, 2004
    Scottsdale, AZ
    We also have a 2002 Viking and have had this repair. It could possibly be two things. First check the side storage compartment doors. The water could be coming in on the sides which is why nothing on top is wet. We had leaking when we first got the PUP and the dealer put on a thin layer of weatherstripping around the side storage doors and have never had a problem with leaking since. There is a little gap even when those doors are locked.

    Second. We first drilled about an 1/8th hole on either side of the crack to stop it from cracking any further. We repaired the lid crack using JB Weld epoxy for ABS. Filled the crack from the upper and lower underside and let it cure overnight. We then sanded down the excess. The glue dries a yellowish color. We then spray painted the area with Fusion paint for Plastic and it has held for 3 years now. I hope this helps.

    Mary Romeo
     
  5. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

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    Mar 10, 2009
    Hopkinton, MA
    dj98adams, that's a VERY nice lid! How much did the material cost for it? Wish I could make that for mine as I have the same problem.
     
  6. Full Circle

    Full Circle Greely, Ontario, Canada

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    Apr 4, 2009
    Greely, Ontario
    One other area to check. At the front of the trailer, there is a white moulding that runs along the entire front bottom of the storage box. It should be tight to the box itself. This moulding is stapled to the trailer floor underneath, but on the front it only leans against the box. I had the same problem as you, but caught it earlier. I caulked along the entire piece of moulding because there was a gap. It had bent out over the years. With ours, water would run down the front of the box, get behind this moulding, then be channeled to the floor. If you crawl underneath your trailer at the front, you'll notice that the wood floor of the storage box is actually about an inch past the frame (towards the front), and this moulding ends at the wood. It was slow, and we never saw water in the box, but one morning i was underneath and saw the damage. Once the wood gets wet, it will keep wicking farther and farther in.
     
  7. Mr. Bill

    Mr. Bill PUP-2002 Flagstaff 725D TV- 2004 Dodge Ram 1500

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    Apr 27, 2009
    Geneva, OH
    I had a 12-18" crack on the top of mine. I applied some clear caulking to it and have had no problem. I also had the gasket not sealing and used the same caulk to put a small bead where I wanted the gasket to go, pressed the gasket up to it and slightly moved/smeared it to get a good seal and once it was on, I put the lid down to keep it in place. It has not moved since. The best part about caulk over glue is the caulk is removable if necessary and it won't tear the gasket.

    I have found many uses for clear caulking on the camper. I even repaired a screen using a separate piece of screen cut slightly larger than the hole, put a few drops of clear caulk around the hole and put the patch over it. Then put a thin strip of caulk around the screen and pressed them together. The caulk holds the screen while still being flexible enough to deal with storage and setup.

    On a side note, I took my camper to a camper mechanic to ask for an opinion about the hitch and he pointed out some water damage to the roof and told me to seal it with "flo coat caulk". I did and at the same time noticed other areas that I put some caulking. Around the doors to the storage area, door to toilet, cargo doors, etc. Basically anywhere there had been some flat strips of caulking I cleaned the area, trimmed/removed the old caulk and put new stuff down.
     
  8. zinger60

    zinger60 New Member

    332
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    Sep 7, 2008
    Northern IN
    You guys are the greatest! We have never had a problem with our PUP so when I found out the floor was all wet in the corners of the storage box, I was freaking out! Now we have some great information on how to fix it. Even though there is a crack in the lid, I think the water might be coming in through either the side doors or along the outside bottom as someone suggested since nothing has ever gotten wet in there. We have not had time to inspect it alot underneath but the area that we could feel was wet on the outside was that small area of wood that is right in front of the frame. I just hope it doesn't extend back very far. Thanks so much for all your suggestions!
     
  9. zinger60

    zinger60 New Member

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    Sep 7, 2008
    Northern IN
    Maromeo,
    Where would I get the JB Weld Epoxy for ABS? Someone else mentione flo-coat epoxy. Where would I get that?
     
  10. maromeo

    maromeo Member

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    Jan 6, 2004
    Scottsdale, AZ
    It looks like this.

    http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

    Some Walmarts carry it, in the automotive section. Checker Auto, Auto Zone or automotive parts stores. It runs about $5 or less. Hope this helps.

    Mary
     
  11. Mr. Bill

    Mr. Bill PUP-2002 Flagstaff 725D TV- 2004 Dodge Ram 1500

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    Apr 27, 2009
    Geneva, OH
    I got the flo-coat from a camper dealer. Check your local one.
     
  12. maromeo

    maromeo Member

    334
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    Jan 6, 2004
    Scottsdale, AZ
    I have just found another crack on our storage trunk lid and need to repair again. While searching I came across these 2 new epoxies.

    http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=11&subid=49&plid=866

    http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=11&subid=49&plid=517

    The first one would be good if you are in a high humidity area. We are in the AZ so it is a dry heat. We will try the second epoxy and see how that one works. And then paint over the repair. Already made the stop holes with the drill bit now we have to wait for the temps to come down below 95 so we can do the work. I will let you know how the 2nd repair goes. The first one has lasted us over 4 yrs so all is good so far.

    Mary Romeo
     
  13. andleton

    andleton "Happy Campers"

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    Aug 31, 2009
    Roanoke Rapids, NC
    patched the abs lid on my coleman with a plastic welder. i know it sounds crazy but there is such a thing. the plastic welder is made by urethane supply company.i bought it to fix atv fenders and when the pup lid cracked i opened it up again and found the abs rods. good luck
     
  14. dljones10

    dljones10 New Member

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    Jul 8, 2012
    2003 Utah, just found a crack that ran from the front end rail down under the lid hinge. I was able to seal the the crack from the hing up but it is still leaking. I am assuming under the hinge. I was going to remove the lid and caulk underneath but I discovered that the lid is attached by bolts and not screws. I am afraid to remove the rest of them in case the nuts fall and then I need to remove the whole box to reattach the lid and I am headed camping this weekend so will not have the time for that task.

    Can I remove the lid without removing the lid/deck assembly as they call it? IF not how difficult is it to remove the Lid/deck assembly?

    Thanks

    Dave
     
  15. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

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    Mar 10, 2009
    Hopkinton, MA
    Dave,

    The nuts are hidden behind the wooded support, so you'll need to remove the top of the storage compartment. It's a pain but can be done. Several screws under the bed, some obvious ones along the top of the cover and then lots of butyl tape holding it on that you'll have to carefully pry apart. I can post a few pics. The other option is to drill out the rivets holding the hinge to the cover.
     
  16. dljones10

    dljones10 New Member

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    Jul 8, 2012
    I noticed screws along the top near the pull out bed and machine screws inside the compartment thru the wood support. When you say screws under the bed are you refering to the actual pull out bed? Sounds dumb I know. If that is the case do I need to try and remove the bed to get to the screws?

    Thanks for all you rhelp.

    Dave
     
  17. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

    11,618
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    Oct 3, 2007
    Waterford, Ct
    Our front storage compartment is the same width as the PUP body with a door to the inside. Under the rear edge (where the light is) I have 2 metal plates that cover the nuts for the hinge. I have not undone these ..... yet ..... but I would think I could get the lid and hinge off be undoing them ..... as long as I could hold the screw heads.
     
  18. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

    766
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    Mar 10, 2009
    Hopkinton, MA
    Raycfe, ourw was the same year but the nuts were under the plastic and hidddn by the wooden support.

    Dave, my bed was a little bowed so the end screws came out easily but I had to use a crowbar to lift up and back in the middle of the bed so I could access the remaining screws. You don't need to remove the bed, just push it in all the way and raise the roof about 12 inches.
     
  19. SteveM_CT

    SteveM_CT New Member

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    Jun 12, 2012
    Our Starcraft Starter 10B has a front storage compartment. Our lid was OK. but the lid is attached by pop rivets that connect the lengthwise hinge to the body.

    The pop rivets created stress cracks at four of the holes.

    We fixed the cracks with g-flex epoxy (you can get it at West Marine)
    http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=14974&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50218&subdeptNum=50219&classNum=50220#.T_5DZnjqWDY

    It's a two-part epoxy that sticks well to plastics and remains a bit flexible. It's used to fix cracks on canoes and kyaks, so I figured it could stand up to what the popup would dish out.

    It's sticking really good, although it has a slight yellow color.

    No more leaks!

    You can also reinforce it with fiberglass. On a large crack in the lid, I'd probably repair it from the underside and use the fiberglass tape for extra strength (my cracks were only 2"-3" long).

    Also, on the hinge, I removed all the pop rivets and made nuts out of 1" long sections of aluminum rod, with a 10-32 threaded hole through the side. I stuck these up with double stick tape, which keeps them in place and provides a cushion. These will spread the load out and keep the fasteners from cracking the holes. I used truss-head screws, which are wide and flat, to also spread out the load. I plan to post pictures of that repair when I get a chance.

    Steve
     
  20. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

    6,138
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    Aug 2, 2011
    Steinbach, MB
    By all means, fix the lid but the "wavy floor" would be my bigger worry.

    If it's already noticeably soft, you may have some work ahead of you and you'll want to curb any progressive damage into the main cabin floor before you end behind the eight ball where repairs are concerned. This can cost thousands if you don't catch it in time!

    Check out my Viking restoration thread for other problem areas you might need to check:
    http://www.popupportal.com/index.php?topic=56883.0
     

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