installing a 12v water pump

Discussion in 'Plumbing Systems (The Fresh, The Blue, The Grey, &' started by drgiese, Mar 25, 2018.

  1. drgiese

    drgiese Active Member

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    Aug 6, 2016
    Northern California
    The hand pump faucet on my 1998 Jayco Eagle has failed. I think installing a 12v pump should be an easy thing to do, but I'm having trouble figuring out where to install it and how to get the power to it. I am very handy overall, but I am electrically challenged and really need step by step instructions. :oops:

    Here's the cabinet under the sink:
    cabinet under sink.jpg It's not very wide - maybe 12" on the floor and 16" higher up. This is where the original onboard tank sits. Can I install the pump here? There's power running through it. Can I splice in here?

    Here's an area under a bench adjacent to the galley. You can see where the city water comes in, and the black corrugated tube is the water line from the tank. There's power here, too.
    cabinet with power.jpg

    I appreciate any help you can give - thanks!
     
  2. crackerJack

    crackerJack Well-Known Member

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    Scottsville, KY
    7DDA9D6F-9DAC-4C7E-AB0F-0076937A3925.jpeg I added a water pump.
    You will need to tie in to your 12v DC power system, not your 120v AC.
    I recommend a power switch and an accumulator tank.
    Most are set up with check valves on the water lines. I just have ball valves that I open or close when dry camping or not.
    I mounted it on an old computer mouse pad and connected it with steel braided hoses to reduce vibration.
     
    ArizonaJoe likes this.
  3. ArizonaJoe

    ArizonaJoe Member

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    Oct 18, 2017
    You should also figure out how to switch your faucet. The 12v water pump is pressure activated. I added one in along with a propane/electric water heater. The accumulator is a great idea. I picked one up a few months ago, but haven't had a chance to install it yet. I also installed an inline filer to limit crud getting into my water heater.
     
  4. drgiese

    drgiese Active Member

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    Aug 6, 2016
    Northern California
    I have to replace the faucet since the hand pump faucet is not working. I was planning to use a regular faucet with a low profile and hook up one side for city water and the other side to the pump.

    I have no idea what an accumulator is. Help?
     
  5. ArizonaJoe

    ArizonaJoe Member

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    Oct 18, 2017
    Your don't need to have one side for city and other side for pump, just install a tee adapter and you can install a couple one way valves to eliminate water traveling I the wrong direction.
    An accumulator is a pressurized inline container that helps smooth out the pressure from surges. Here is one on Amazon.
    SHURflo 182-200 Pre-Pressurized Accumulator Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N9VF6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cXhUAbGZPMN7K
     
  6. ArizonaJoe

    ArizonaJoe Member

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    Oct 18, 2017
    Having hot water in a Popup is very useful.
     
  7. drgiese

    drgiese Active Member

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    Aug 6, 2016
    Northern California
    Agreed, but probably not in the current budget. Will put it on the wish list for next year's renos.
     
  8. drgiese

    drgiese Active Member

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    Aug 6, 2016
    Northern California
    This is what I need the most help with. How do I know which wires are 12v? Really basic question, I know.
     
  9. Pozi

    Pozi Member

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    Feb 17, 2016
    The backside of your converter should have several wires exiting from it (one for each 'circuit'). Most likely blue (or similarly colored) with a colored stripe. Those are your potential 12v sources. Hopefully there's a spare. If not, tapping into your furnace circuit should be okay. Keep the wire to the switch/pump as short as possible.
     
  10. Natureangel

    Natureangel Everythings better outdoors...

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    Feb 28, 2016
    Illinois
    I totally lucked out and had a fuse marked pump and wires when I added mine. Check you converter. I used a laundry faucet on mine.
     
  11. crackerJack

    crackerJack Well-Known Member

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    Jan 6, 2014
    Scottsville, KY
    Your camper has a AC system. It only works when plugged into shore power. It probably consists of a couple receptacles.
    You also have a DC system (12V). It works when hooked up to a battery and when plugged in to shore power due to the converter. It probably consists of lights, furnace blower, and a cigarette lighter receptacle.
     
  12. drgiese

    drgiese Active Member

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    Aug 6, 2016
    Northern California
    So I need to remove the converter and follow the wires?
     
  13. drgiese

    drgiese Active Member

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    Aug 6, 2016
    Northern California
    Right. I understand the difference between AC and DC. I just don't know how to figure out which wires are which. Should I just run fresh wires directly from the battery?

    I don't have a cigarette lighter receptacle, but I do have a new doohickey with a USB port, cigarette receptacle, and battery meter that I plan to install once I figure out the wiring thing.
     
  14. drgiese

    drgiese Active Member

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    Aug 6, 2016
    Northern California
    Ooh, that would be nice! I'll check tomorrow.
     
    Natureangel likes this.
  15. Pozi

    Pozi Member

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    Feb 17, 2016
    You shouldn't have to remove the converter as long as you can access the back of it. Removing it will be more trouble than it's worth.
     
  16. drgiese

    drgiese Active Member

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    Aug 6, 2016
    Northern California
    How do I access the back of it without removing it? I have looked everywhere and I definitely don't have an access panel to get to the back.
     
  17. drgiese

    drgiese Active Member

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    Aug 6, 2016
    Northern California
    Well I found a fuse marked "pump / ceiling lights" with a blue wire coming from it. But I can't see where the wire goes, I can't access the back of the converter, and I don't see a blue wire anywhere else running through the trailer. The ceiling lights are on a black wire.
    converter.jpg
     
  18. drgiese

    drgiese Active Member

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    Aug 6, 2016
    Northern California
    Ok, I thoroughly searched here's what I found. There's this bundle of wires coming up through the floor.
    wires from floor under sink.jpg They go into this inaccessible area and I assume they go into the converter, since it's right there. Can I tap into them directly?

    wires under sink plus converter.jpg
    I can't get to the back of the converter, so I can't follow any of the wires.

    There are these wires running along the back of the cabinet under the sink (which is the cabinet closest to the converter, the same one the wires enter through the floor). I believe they come from the converter on the left and carry power to the right. The fridge is directly to the right, and the furnace is directly to the right of that:
    cabinet under sink.jpg
     
  19. crackerJack

    crackerJack Well-Known Member

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    Jan 6, 2014
    Scottsville, KY
    I have to remove a few screws and a panel to access the back of the converter.
     
  20. drgiese

    drgiese Active Member

    129
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    Aug 6, 2016
    Northern California
    There is no access panel. The converter is mounted on the far wall. There is a space between the interior and exterior walls, I assume where the wires run, but there is no access panel. The spare tire mount is in the general area, but there's no panel behind it. I guess Jayco didn't want anyone getting to it.
     

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