Leveling points

Discussion in 'Leveling Your Camper' started by bob414, Mar 8, 2019.

  1. jmkay1

    jmkay1 2004 Fleetwood/Coleman Utah

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    I bring a 2’ construction level and put it on the a frame as close to the box itself. When that is good I open the roof and put a bullseye bubble level as far inside as I can see to verify it is good enough. I found on my camper my roof isn’t fully flat and get a different reading. My back bumper my reading is a tiny bit off from the front. Not sure what the deal is there so only rely on where my a frame is. At least with my camper it is more true to flat then anywhere else. My old camper had stick on bubbles on the side of the camper and one in the front near the top. However I could never trust them alone as every site seemed to get them confused. Where they showed to be level but when I put the bullseye level on the floor I’m anything but level. Never did figure out why. Every camper is made differently and every campsite is too. so the key is to find the location on your camper you get the most accurate reading with every trip. The important thing is to make sure the fridge is good enough so where ever on your camper matches that level you should rely on. The one time I forgot my level I used a flashlight on the floor of the camper. If it rolled I wasn’t level etc. I also used a cell phone app. Not sure I would trust either method 100% but I surprisingly didn’t feel like I was sleeping on a hill so it was good enough for me. I didn’t use my fridge then as I just didn’t trust the method enough. Let me tell you some sites are way more challenging than others and I can almost never be dead on.
     
  2. kitphantom

    kitphantom Well-Known Member

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    Our rear bumper is apparently in agreement with the rest of the trailer. We'd never tested it, since that's not handy place to check side-to-side leveling. A couple of years ago, I had finished leveling the trailer in an interesting KOA site, using my little t-level. One of the hosts came along, asking if he could help - it sometimes happens when I'm out solo - creaky, white-haired old lady - I'll take the help if needed. I said I had it done, he looked like he doubted it, pulled out his phone and used it on the back bumper. Seemed quite surprised to find I had it correct.
     
  3. HeatherTS

    HeatherTS New Member

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    We def have a prob leveling our 1999 Jayco 12F Seems every spot is different and the closer we get it to level where fridge works great then the worse the door gets:( errrrr, had to relocate door latch just to get it to stay shut. And it’s wack from side to side and now top is sticking out a 1/2” from frame. Any thoughts?
     
  4. Rusty2192

    Rusty2192 Active Member

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    How are you leveling it? If you’re using the stabilizers to level, then there’s your problem. Level using only something under the low tire for side to side and the tongue jack for front to back. Then just snug up the stabilizers. This way, the pup doesn’t care how out of level the ground is, since it’s sitting as if it was on a perfectly level site.
     
    Sjm9911 and kitphantom like this.
  5. HeatherTS

    HeatherTS New Member

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    Thank you for the reply. Actually use a 2’ level and leveled the frame it’s self and then double checked all the sides, etc. Used jack stands on pads underneath then put stabilizers down also on pads. Door was bothering me so bad that tore it out completely today. Then reinstalled it. After leveling the frame and such it ended up moving about 1/2” to the hinge side and the top hinge/hardware also raised about 1/2”. Not sure why it was so out of wack but it shuts nicely now, looks good, canvas on both sides now reach and no sun shining through between door and door frame:)
     

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