Many things learned from a Jayco side board repairs, part 1

Discussion in 'Camper Restoration Projects' started by kcormier19, Apr 17, 2018.

  1. kcormier19

    kcormier19 Member

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    31
    Sep 12, 2017
    massachusetts
    So after having the 86 Jayco Jaydove we bought last year sit in our driveway under a tarp, it was finally time to start working on the big issue we had with it, water damage in the sideboards. The previous owner attempted to stop the water from getting into the camper by using silicone, a lot of it, but we all know how well that works. you can see how much the corner was pushed out due to the wood inside swelling up.

    20180412_095828.jpg

    here is what the plywood looked like inside-
    20171028_141116(1).jpg
    The front corners of the sideboards and the read board looked about as bad. After reading dozens of posts here, I decided to try and replace the damaged wood. Here are the things that went right, and wrong, so far.
    On the camper you have the metal trim that wraps around the top and side of the camper as well as the center strip and all of those have to come off, and all of the butyl tape that was there needs to be cleaned off. The old tape I removed was still pliable but there was some mold around the area's where water had been seeping in over the years.
    20180412_104208.jpg

    I did find that working with the butyl tape when it was cool out was easier both in removing the old tape and reapplying the new tape.

    There is also a metal trim piece, actually two pieces, that go horizontally around the camper where the roof meets the lower body. You can see just a small piece of it in the first picture. This is where the roof gasket sits to keep out water as well. My old gasket was dried out, and no longer flexible so the old one came out. Next I removed all of the silicone that was embedded in all of the trim as well as the aluminum roof and side pieces.
    One mistake I made was this- what ever order you remove the pieces, put them back in the reverse order.

    I took off the side pieces first, then the center piece and finally the horizontal metal trim. But I put them back on in the same order and it caused two problems.
    first, because the corner and side piece was put on first, the metal trim band would not go up high enough to make contact with the new wood I put in the front and sides, so after I had already put in new butyl tape and screwed on one side, I had to take it all off to get the metal trim on correctly. The second mistake was that because I started on one side and not the middle, the aluminum side pieces bowed out as I worked my way toward the middle.
    Jayco never glued the aluminum to the front, side, or rear roof walls, so luckily I didn't need to scrape any wood off of it, and I did not glue the new wood to the it just in case I had to take it apart again someday.

    Unlike many I did not take the roof off to work on this because I had no way of doing so. I propped up the roof from the inside and worked on one section of wood at a time.
    20180413_154716.jpg
    My box is 10 feet long so like many I had to decide how I was going to splice two pieces of wood together, and here again Jayco did not do anything fancy. The sidewall pieces are screwed into the roof from the side and from under the roof gasket trim but they are not spliced together in any way and so I replaced them the same way. The old plywood still had the stamp of its dimensions, 15/32" so off to Lowes I went. Of course they didn't have any plywood in stock that size but had 7/16" which would be 14/32" so close enough. I cut the new plywood to the same dimensions as the old, but I don't have a table saw so I used a circular saw for all of my cuts. Lesson learned, get a table saw. The cuts I made are good but a table saw would make the more precise and easier to cut straight.

    The vinyl strips used to cover the screws in all of the trim was brittle and so I replaced it, many of the screws had rusted so bad I had to use a Dremmel to cut a channel into the screw head to turn them out or to pop them off.
    20180412_101823.jpg
    The new vinyl I ordered comes up in a 100' roll and the roll is inside out, but it was pretty easy to install into the channels (not pictured). The only place I had a real problem is where the vinyl goes in two different directions. Jayco was able to fold the vinyl into the track over itself so it was one continuous piece but i was not able to do that.
    20180412_095851.jpg
    Once the new plywood was in, I packed it all up and closed the camper. 3 of the 4 corners close perfectly, but the driver's front corner doesn't by about an inch. I looks like the side wall is hitting the base of the roof support where it attaches to the camper itself so I will have to make a small adjustment to that. I was having a hard time getting the new roof gasket in because the screw heads were getting in the way is I have to change those.

    I did this all by myself which is another problem. I used a lot of c-clamps to help hold things together and that made a big difference but having a second hand to replace the horizontal trim would have been a lot easier.

    So, my advice is that if you think you need to do this, but question if you have the ability, you can. I have little to no experience doing anything like this but I read a ton of advice here and watched a lot of YouTube videos. Just remember go slow, take pictures or notes of what you are doing, reverse the order when you put hings back together, use a table saw if possible for your cuts, get help for the pieces you cant hold and secure alone. My Bear Creek canvas came in yesterday and so that will be in the next part.
     
    jnc likes this.
  2. giadiep

    giadiep Active Member

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    Sep 5, 2015
    Syracuse, NY
    Wow. Great job and nice write-up.
     
  3. Mamie

    Mamie Active Member

    838
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    Sep 11, 2017
    LA - Lower Alabama
    You were lucky you didn't have to scrape rotten wood off the roof. My roof top is one piece aluminum from front to back and I'm sure there is rotten wood will have to be scraped off. If there is anyway, I am going to try to use a wood hardener vs scraping and then bondo or use fiberglass cloth.

    "My box is 10 feet long so like many I had to decide how I was going to splice two pieces of wood together, and here again Jayco did not do anything fancy. The sidewall pieces are screwed into the roof from the side and from under the roof gasket trim but they are not spliced together in any way and so I replaced them the same way. The old plywood still had the stamp of its dimensions, 15/32" so off to Lowes I went. Of course they didn't have any plywood in stock that size but had 7/16" which would be 14/32" so close enough."​

    This is the part that confuses me. When you cut the pieces you had to join an 8' piece to a 2' piece. How did you do that without laminating?

    "I cut the new plywood to the same dimensions as the old, but I don't have a table saw so I used a circular saw for all of my cuts. Lesson learned, get a table saw. The cuts I made are good but a table saw would make the more precise and easier to cut straight"​

    I built a 32' x 48' table for my tablesaw but I can't feed a 4x8 sheet by myself. I have learned to get Lowes to cut it down with my dimensions and if I need it cut down further, I can run it through the tablesaw or use my edge clamp with the circular saw. I have since built a panel saw for a small circular saw with a laser that I need to put together to handle sheet goods.
     
  4. kcormier19

    kcormier19 Member

    68
    31
    Sep 12, 2017
    massachusetts
    This is the part that confuses me. When you cut the pieces you had to join an 8' piece to a 2' piece. How did you do that without laminating?

    "I cut the new plywood to the same dimensions as the old, but I don't have a table saw so I used a circular saw for all of my cuts. Lesson learned, get a table saw. The cuts I made are good but a table saw would make the more precise and easier to cut straight"

    I didn't join them because Jayco didn't join them. So the way that Jayco did it was to take a 8 foot piece of plywood and then a two foot piece and have then screwed from the bottom through the roof gasket track. where the two boards meet at their vertical positions, they were not glued together and there was no other fasteners to hold them together. So for example, on the passenger sideboards, the first board from the front corner only went back two feet so that was all that i removed. I just banged out the board and the staples that hold it came out with it. In regards to the remaining 8 feet, I cut out 3 feet starting from the rear corner forward and left the good wood that was over the door area intact. Basically between the staples at the top and the roof gasket metal track at the bottom, the wood didn't need to be joined together. The next time i open the trailer I will take some pictures of that if it still doesnt make sense.
    Kyle​
     
  5. Mamie

    Mamie Active Member

    838
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    Sep 11, 2017
    LA - Lower Alabama
    Pictures would be great. I dread doing the door. I can barely struggle with it as it is, but if it isn't square or level, I won't be able to close it.

    I will probably need to replace the gaskets too.
     
  6. kcormier19

    kcormier19 Member

    68
    31
    Sep 12, 2017
    massachusetts
     
  7. Mamie

    Mamie Active Member

    838
    109
    Sep 11, 2017
    LA - Lower Alabama
    Thanks. I'm gonna start with the back sideboard and then tackle the front with the door. All my screws in the door are rusted, so I'm going to get some stainless steel ones and replace them. The time I did try to set up my camper by myself, I had a terrible time trying to release and later to store the door on the ceiling.
     
  8. DFire2

    DFire2 Active Member

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    Jun 18, 2016
    Central Michigan
    Yeah, I'm not looking forward to the door part of my roof rebuild either...
     
  9. kcormier19

    kcormier19 Member

    68
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    Sep 12, 2017
    massachusetts
    here is a picture to show what I was referring to. the vertical line between the two boards is not fastened by anything on the sides of it, the two boards are secured in the metal band below with screws that go up into the lower portion of the boards, and at the top as well. This is how it was originally and so I just kept it the same way with the new boards.
    20180423_084839.jpg
     
    jnc likes this.
  10. Mamie

    Mamie Active Member

    838
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    Sep 11, 2017
    LA - Lower Alabama
    When you replaced the sideboards, did you have each piece inserted into the channel before you put it up, or did you insert it after?
     
  11. kcormier19

    kcormier19 Member

    68
    31
    Sep 12, 2017
    massachusetts
    i took off the lower channel first, replaced the side panel, then put the channel back on.
     
  12. Mamie

    Mamie Active Member

    838
    109
    Sep 11, 2017
    LA - Lower Alabama
    Thanks.
     

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