I've been wanting to post a few pictures in responding to other posts, etc but haven't ever really taken any pictures of the work I've done on the PUP. I took pictures last night. So, here's a shotgun approach to a number of the mods I have completed thus far on the new-to-us this year PUP. About the first thing done was to replace the Atwood thermostat with a digital unit: Next, since I had to deal with the black holding tank and hooking up the gray water tote using the same, traditional TT-type gate valves, I needed a way to carry a couple of the stinky slinkies but I didn't want to use the the inside of the rear bumper. I got a pair of surplus 40mm ammo cans, painted them, then attached them to the rear bumper with 4" square U-bolts. One holds the black tank slinky and the other holds the gray water slinky and clean-up kit. I pop the lids on these when I get home so all dries out nicely. The configuration allows that each end of each hose is pointed up (like a U) and holds any moisture inside the hoses. After using the PUP a time or two, there was a gap in the 120v AC power outlets, so I ran a new circuit from the converter through the front curb-side storage compartment. Just a standard blue box from Lowes. That same storage compartment is also the outside accessible area. I wanted a light in the compartment as we often deploy in the dark, or I would want something from storage. I didn't want to have to pull out a flashlight just for that, so... Of course, that was timed with the full LED conversion. When I sold our first PUP, I pulled all of the LED boards out and put back in the incandescents that I had saved. Because I had purchased for that PUP's fixture bases, I had to change the base of the overheads in this PUP to a T10 type base. A quick soldering job and it's all ready to go. Two of the three overheads are configured this way: the "one light on" side is a small, I want to say, 6 SMD LEDs board at around 110 lumens. When the switch is turned to "both lights on", the second one is a CommandElectronics 30 SMD LEDs board with that puts out 510 lumens. This lets me have either a lot of light or conserve battery, depending on the needs. The overhead fixture sitting over the table gets a different treatment, as I wanted a lot of light in this area for reading, playing games, etc. It has the 30 SMD LED in the second position like the other two, but in the "one bulb" position, is a CommandElectronics 21 SMD LEDs board with 357 lumens out of it. I guess combined is around 850 lumens, even though I have the smaller one slightly angled out into the hallway. (Hopefully the correct orientation of the images will show soon.) Here's one of the bunk-end light/fan combos with an LED board installed, source: ebay. Even the porch light gets an LED treatment. All LEDs, with maybe one exception, are "warm white" in color. I tried dampening the sound of the water pump, which was significantly less than what was in the first PUP, so it won't be much more before it's completely silent. I am still probably going to install an accumulator to help with the pulsing. The dampening comes from the neoprene mousepad cut up and the mounting screws run through them between the feet of the pump and the floor. My refrigerator seems to struggle more than the last one, so I've really taken to doing the baffle and fan mod. I made the baffle from steel flashing that I had from the last time I did this. The fans are new 120mm fans from ebay, controlled by a switch installed in the kitchen cabinet on the left as you enter the PUP. I even put the little cube fan inside. That's getting swapped out for something that looks like this, when it arrives in the mail. It will be controlled by the same switch as the external fans or maybe not, as it has an independent switch onboard. There are a couple of clips that attach to the fins and it then blows air directly across the fins. (Yes, I know it's a glorified hard disk drive cooler.) Speaking of electricity, I installed this 12v DC meter that I got from Ebay for less than $7 shipped. I used a salvaged switch from an extra power strip. And speaking of switches, for when boondocking and life in general, I don't like having the radio powered (the display panel is always lit). I put a switch in to kill power to it. However, I put it on the backside of the wall, under the sink area, so it is out of sight/out of mind. The kids have YET to find it (only a matter of time). You can also make out the black "tape" wrap used as sound-deadening material on the underside of the sink. It's tape used around window frames during remodeling to seal up gaps and is many, many mils thick. Works well. Storage is always a concern in campers, but especially for PUPs, so here's a few of my answers. Instead of the bunk-end shelf, I just used zip ties to hang a Rubbermaid hanging storage pouch from the bunk-end pole. It stays permanently attached. It's great for holding snacks, phones, flashlights, pocket contents, etc, as I sleep toward the outside of the bed. The main drawer has a turnbuckle lock, but the slide, if you can call it that, did not go out very far. I replaced the center, wobbly and nearly useless single with two full-extension ball bearing slides. I also reinforced the corners of the drawer so it holds together as long as possible. You can barely make out the little corner brackets used on the inside. The mirror on the hard-walled bathroom is not glass and suffers from warping, much like a fun house mirror. We don't use it much (but occasionally) so it's a great place to have a clothes or towel hanger. I did put felt pads on the back of it where it touches the surface of the mirror. Here, it's holding my trash bag. Next to the bathroom is the counter that has the microwave and additional storage below it. I thought we could increase the storage space based on what I saw someone else doing, so I got these storage shelving units, used industrial velcro to attach them to each other (in case I wanted to separate them again), used liquid electrical tape on the feet to prevent sliding and said "DW, LOOK! More storage!" I got a nose in the air. They do hang off the right over the edge of the counter. So, I dropped back into huddle formation and came up with this. It fits and looks better. More disdain. So I asked DW if she would like to address it directly. This is what she came up with, and what is now there. She wanted the counter space, but we did need something for the nick knacks. So, I turned the two storage units into "walls" for the kids' bed (DS age 7, DD age 5). Each bunk-end is a king size bed. The kids each get one half of that bed, but instead of one closer to the main area and one further away that would have to crawl over the other one (We want SOME peace when we're camping), we split it front to back. These storage units sit right on the invisible line, forming a "wall" between. It works! I face one set towards the DS and the other set towards the DD. They use it for clothes and toys. We also have a shower curtain that uses curtain rod hangers and hangs from the shepherd's pole to make a soft wall, if needed. Used with the storage shelves, this really completes the visual "his space, her space" separation. It looks and hangs better in person. Back to the outside. I needed a place to carry the new Bal Light Trailer Leveler I treated myself with (Happy Because I Can Day). I looked around for unused exterior space and came up with fitting it between the LP tanks and battery box. I had to make a bracket to keep it from falling through to the ground, so I used angled aluminum and rivets to build this. Bungees hold it in place. I should have taken a picture before installing it, as it's too difficult to see now. You can also see the battery cut-off switch on top of the new battery box. I may come back and hit the bracket with a coating of Herculiner to match the battery box just forward of it. It's the only shiny metal in this area. When I replaced the battery box with one large enough for a Group 31 battery, I had to drill out some rivets to turn some tabs around for more space. After pulling up the old plastic battery box, there was a bit of rust and corrosion under it on the cross member supports. I cleaned them up and put Herculiner all over the supports. It is tough and scratch-resistant, not to mention that the bits of ground up rubber will provide some cushion. The shiny part doesn't look like that in standard light - thanks, flash. I also used Herculiner on the brackets that hold the safety chains and that has stopped any rusting there as well. It looks a LOT nicer now. Then, quickly, there's the Eternabond down the center roof seam: The refrigerator grill screen replacements to aid in airflow documented in another thread on here: The flashlight by the door: And a few other things that haven't made it into the archives yet. Not to mention the complete brake job, Barker's blue tote (15 gallon, low-boy style), numerous little tweaks and updates. The blue tote straps onto the spare with a couple of cinch straps when under way. It's about the first thing off, as it blocks the roof crank otherwise. I think I'm JUST about ready to go camping. Still on the list: replace the non-smart charging converter with a modern unit, add velcro strips to the awning to hold it rolled up when trying to zip the awning cover bag, and some other things I can't remember at the moment. I'll save those things for next week... See you out there sometime.