Portable Field (Camping) Sink Mod

Discussion in 'Plumbing Systems (The Fresh, The Blue, The Grey, &' started by Dubbya, Feb 25, 2013.

  1. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

    6,138
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    Aug 2, 2011
    Steinbach, MB
    Since we do all of our cooking and dish washing outside, table space is at a premium and washing dishes three times a day presents a bit of a logistical problem, not to mention the back pain from washing dishes in tubs placed on a table that's less than standard counter height.

    Heating water, pouring it into plastic dish washing tubs, carrying the grey water and pouring it into collection containers and putting everything away when you're done, only to have to repeat the process hours later is time consuming and to put it mildly, a bit of a pain.

    Other than the 2" RV sink strainers, all of the parts required are readily available at Walmart, any average building center and none of them are very expensive. That said, I ordered the 2" sink strainers from my local RV dealer and the 1-1/2" drain elbows and foam seals were ordered online directly from Moen in the form of two Tub Drain Rough-in kits. This is by no means the only way to do it, but I wanted to keep the heights of the drain components as low as possible since space inside the storage locker was at a premium.

    Here are the components used:

    Qty 1: Plano XXL Sportsman's Trunk ($25 @ Walmart)
    [​IMG]

    Qty 1: 30"x19.5" Cosco Adjustable Personal/Activity Table ($19.99 @ Walmart)
    [​IMG]

    Qty 2: Sterilite 11.4L Dish Washing Tub ($2.00 ea.)
    Qty 2: Moen Tub Drain Rough-in kit #140680 ($6.50 ea.)
    Qty 2: LasalleBristol 2" Strainer #65CAR61032 ($8.95 ea.)
    Qty 1: 20' x 1-1/4" Discharge Hose Kit ($8.99 ea.)
    Qty 4: 1-1/2" x 1-1/4" Poly Hose Barb ($1.49 ea.)
    Qty 4: 1-1/4" Hose Clamp ($2.39 ea.)
    Qty 4: 1-1/2" Female Adapter Hub FPT (Threaded)
    Qty 1: 1-1/2" 45 Degree Wye
    Qty 2: 1-1/2" 90 degree elbow
    Qty 1: 1-1/2" Slip Fit Male Adapter MPT (Threaded)
    Qty 1: Piping Thread Tape
    Qty 1: 16" x 36" x 5/8" Melamine Shelving

    I'm not going to provide an entire list of instructions as the photos are pretty self-evident. Prices will vary on many of the items. Other than a razor knife, the only tools used were a 1/4" drill, a 1-1/4" cup saw, a 1-1/2" cup saw, a chop saw for cutting pipe and a jigsaw for notching and cutting the sink openings. If you don't have a table saw, you can get Home Depot to cut the melamine shelving to 34" x 15-3/4" so it'll fit snugly inside the trunk.

    Here's how I put the hose barbs and fittings for the flexible drains together.
    [​IMG]

    Here's one of the sinks with 1-1/2" drain hole drilled.
    [​IMG]

    The strainer comes with a white foam gasket which I put on before inserting it through the sink drain hole.
    [​IMG]

    Before attaching the tub drain elbow, I used Vaseline to lubricate the plastic threads and put the foam gasket in place.
    [​IMG]

    Here the drain elbow is tightened securely and ready for the hose barb.
    [​IMG]

    I cut two lengths of discharge hose, taped the threads, fitted the hose barbs and tightened the hose clamps then attached the hoses to the sinks. If you're going to to try this project, I'd recommend you don't tighten the threaded fittings much until you've tested everything and made all of your final adjustments. Getting them apart to cut the hoses or adjust the lie of the hose is a supreme hassle.

    Here, everything is glued in place and ready for the sinks.
    [​IMG]

    Another shot. As you can see, I left the lid in place as a reference point but it is easily removed to make working on the sinks less cumbersome.
    [​IMG]

    Here's the sewer drain connection poking out through the side with the sinks installed.
    [​IMG]

    Here are the fully assembled field sinks.
    [​IMG]

    Here's how I connect the drain hose to the sewer connection.
    [​IMG]

    How you hook it up to the sewer is up to you, but I plan to tap into the 1-1/2" sewer line I've already got in place for my pup's sink. You can see that here: http://www.popupportal.com/index.php?topic=61205.0
     
  2. badgamuss

    badgamuss Member

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    Sep 7, 2012
    You must be part engineer and part mad scientist. That looks awesome. [:D]
     
  3. bondebond

    bondebond New Member

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    Aug 14, 2008
    Downright outstanding work and design. If I'd had something like this in my tenting days, I might have wandered over to a PUP. I love the idea of using a sturdy storage container to house the entire system. Not that it probably matters, but does this one have wheels under one end?

    You can just a hanging bracket/basket off on the right side to hold soap, sponges and towels.

    Thanks for documenting all parts and the process.
     
  4. Jimbow

    Jimbow Active Member

    1,361
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    Nov 30, 2012
    Beyond impressed.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
     
  5. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

    6,138
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    Aug 2, 2011
    Steinbach, MB
    Well, thanks, badgamuss! I've always wanted to be an Engineer's but the hats they sell on eBay don't come with a certificate of proficiency in operating trains. As far as the "mad scientist" reference goes, you're half right! [;)]

    Yep, it's got the wheels. It's a little awkward for folks with short arms but it's easy enough for the average fella to carry around as it only weighs about 25 pounds when it's all said and done.

    I've already picked up a new-2-me silverware basket from an old dishwasher ($2) and a folding wire dish rack ($1) at the local thrift shop. I cut slots out so that the silverware basket can be hung on the molded tie-down brackets at either end of the trunk. Thinking I might line the lid with 1/2" plywood just to stiffen it up a bit then attach the dish rack to it. They'll both be stored inside the trunk.

    I'm thinking about using some folding shelf brackets that were "harvested" from another project. They'll hold the lid firmly in the open position so that once the dish rack is in use, wind and/or weight of the washed dishes won't slam the lid shut. Alternatively, I looked at a hanging dish rack from IKEA but it's not collapsible and won't fit inside the trunk.

    Regardless, it's well on it's way to being called "done" at this point, so from here on out, it's just a matter of tweaking. I'll add another pic or two when I've got the dish rack and brackets mounted.
     
  6. Campit

    Campit EAT SLEEP CAMP

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    Sep 16, 2011
    Wow! That's an awesome mod! It is so well put together. I like how you fixed it to drain to the sewer connection. You detailed everything so it'll be easy for anyone to follow. I give you a Blue Ribbon for this!

    Campit
     
  7. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

    6,138
    40
    Aug 2, 2011
    Steinbach, MB
    The total cost on this project was approximately $85 (without the table) and the total weight is right around 20 pounds fully assembled.

    When not connected to my 1-1/2" sewer line, I'll attach a Valterra T01-0091V swivel drain adapter ($5) and run a length of 1/2" garden hose to an Aquatainer.

    You can find the Plano XXL Sportsman's Trunk Model: 1819-00 at Walmart, HomeDepot and Bass Pro Shops. Even at the regular price of $25, they're a great deal. On sale, you can pick them up for around $17.99.
     
  8. 2jazzy

    2jazzy New Member

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    Jan 12, 2012
    Wow! Awesome mod!
     
  9. shelmily

    shelmily Well-Known Member

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    Jun 7, 2012
    Northeast Pennsylvania
    As usual, another great idea and project I am going to have to do. Well documented too. Thanks for the hard work.
     
  10. BigBaron

    BigBaron Dreaming of Tommy's chili cheeseburgers...

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    Jun 21, 2012
    I wonder how many of these will magically appear across the continent...
    Great job!
     
  11. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

    6,138
    40
    Aug 2, 2011
    Steinbach, MB
    Thanks all! I kinda hurried to get it posted but I'm working on a less complicated, more efficient and less expensive drain system. Should have something more to post in the next week or two.

    BTW, if you're thinking of building one, post a few pics when yours is done! I'd love to see some variations on the idea.
     
  12. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

    6,138
    40
    Aug 2, 2011
    Steinbach, MB
    If you're looking for a simpler, less expensive drain method that should work equally as well, you can use the following items with the Plano XXL Sportsmans' Trunk.

    [​IMG]

    After recalculating the costs on the initial mod, I found I'd omitted a few fittings. The actual cost (not incuding the table) came in at $105.00.

    The cost on this version (Including a new 37420 Camco sink drain assembly) is approximately $91. It's not much cheaper but if you can locate 18" to 24" of 3/4" hose, you could just use two of the Camco 37262 traps and save a few more bucks.

    With this iteration, there's no need for any additional plumbing fittings, the 45 degree Wye is glued directly to the DVW Trap Adapter through the hole drilled in the side of the trunk. Two 3/4" hoses cut to length from the Camco sink drain (37420) kit, run from the traps to the hose barbs screwed into the dishwasher bushings. Super simple, super easy to put together.

    I'm using the old sink trap I kept after converting the sink in the pup to 1-1/2" drains. Just waiting on another sink strainer (to replace the one I broke trying to remove it from the bathtub drain elbow) and sink drain (37262) to come in so I can put it all together and finish it up.

    Note that other than the added expense of all some plumbing fittings, and the hassle (it's really a hassle) trying to fit the 1-1/4" discharge hose on the hose barbs, here's absolutely nothing wrong with the initial mod, I just wanted to try to simplify the construction and reduce the costs for anyone else wanting to do this.

    In retrospect, the 1-1/2" hoses were overkill and completely emptying the drain system for transport or storage was a little problematic. I think the 3/4" drain hoses are more than enough to gitter dun and they'll be easier to empty completely.

    I'll post a few more photos of my progress as time permits.

    If you're curious, here's the link to my 1/2" to 1-1/2" sink drain conversion mod. Check it out
     
  13. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

    6,138
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    Aug 2, 2011
    Steinbach, MB
    I couldn't find the male trap adapter fitting I wanted so I used a female trap adapter.

    [​IMG]

    The trap adapter in the above image is a female fitting which is glued to the 45 degree Wye using a short length of 1-1/2" pipe. The threaded end of the trap adapter slips through the hole drilled in the side of the trunk and tightened in place using the conduit locknut.

    It'll work too but it's still a bit too long as the hose barb comes too close to the drain for the nearest hose to route properly. Again, I want as few bends in the drain hoses and piping as possible so that when we'd done with it, all I have to do is tip it up on end to drain the system completely. It's almost there but there's just one more thing I want to try.
     
  14. badgamuss

    badgamuss Member

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    Sep 7, 2012
    Hey Dubbya, I wonder if you could put some velcro hooks in the lid for a towel, sponge etc?
     
  15. kurtes

    kurtes Reno, NV

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    Jun 7, 2010
    Reno, NV
    Let me know when mine is done!
    Actually, I just wanted to comment and follow the thread so I could find it easily. That looks like a great idea, nice work!
     
  16. Wenchinwaiting

    Wenchinwaiting New Member

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    Feb 4, 2013
    Nice..I was thinking of doing one utility sink mod..hummm
     
  17. ricknpeg1

    ricknpeg1 New Member

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    Mar 13, 2011
    Remarkable
     
  18. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

    6,138
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    Aug 2, 2011
    Steinbach, MB
    Not sure why that link to the image of the Plano XXL Sportsman's Trunk went screwy but here it is:
    [​IMG]

    Here's the final revision of the drain that I've decided to go with. This leaves just a little more room around the nearest sink trap and makes routing the 3/4" drain hose a little easier. I had considered using a cleanout Tee in place of the 3-way elbow but I felt it was too abrupt a direction change and that the curved elbows would allow for more efficient drainage.

    The parts used:
    [​IMG]

    Exploded View:
    [​IMG]

    Note that the male trap adapter slip fits into the end of the 3-way elbow through the hole drilled in the side of the trunk. Using the male trap adapter makes for a tight joint, so prior to gluing the joint, lightly sand the male end of the trap adapter and the receiving end of the 3-way elbow with a high grit sandpaper or a ScotchBrite pad to make fitting them a little easier.

    Same as in the initial build, the drain outlet will look like this:
    [​IMG]

    Enjoy!
     
  19. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

    6,138
    40
    Aug 2, 2011
    Steinbach, MB
    I've lined the lid so that I'd have some counter space for the folding dish rack. Also added a pair of 14-1/2" struts cut from 1/2" electrical conduit to support it and riveted four flat picture hangers to the outside to serve as anchor points for the support struts.

    In the interest of reducing weight, I used a piece of 1-1/2" x 14" Styrofoam that I had on hand, cut it to length, then carved the edges with an Olfa blade so that it would fit the edge contours of the lid. PL Premium adhesive was applied to the edges and contact points inside the lid then the Styrofoam was laid in. Once the adhesive had cured, I used self adhesive floor tiles to cover it and provide a semi-rigid surface. The edges were siliconed before reattaching the lid.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I replaced the standard (low dough) shower head that came with the L5 with a multi-setting plastic garden sprayer. I also drilled a 1-1/2" hole between the sinks to run the 1/2" hose through and added an access hatch at the end opposite the 1-1/2" drain.

    Nylon reinforced 1/2" food grade hose was used to as the standard RV hose is not rated for hot water applications and because it easily withstands collapsing due to the suction provided by the pump.

    An Eccotemp L5 instant hot shower as the water heater and I'm using a 6 gallon Reliance Hydroller as my portable water source when we don't have running water on the campsite.

    A 12 volt (5 amp) Flojet 03526-14A pumps 2.9 gpm at 50 PSI. Capable of running dry without any issues, this on demand pump is perfect for the intended application. Once fully set up and running full tilt boogie through the water heater, the the 6 gallon supply tank lasts just over 4 minutes. If you turn off the shower head, the pump will build pressure to 50 psi, then shut down automatically until you need it again. At just $58 plus shipping, it's a fantastic deal.

    The pump can be powered by either a 12V booster pack or with a 5 amp Mobicool Y40 Compact Adapter which is designed for the Mobicool coolers and it performs flawlessly in converting 110v AC to 12v DC. Just make sure it's not left outside in the elements. [;)]

    So, from start to finish here's the setup.

    [​IMG]

    The 3/16" chrome wire clip (pics #3-6) was bent and holes drilled in the lower front trunk wall for the clip ends to fit into. This prevents the sink from flipping over when the lid is open. Works slicker n' chicken snot to hold it in place even with a loaded dish rack. Could have added one on the back wall too but, meh.. good enough.

    [​IMG]

    In pic #14, Option "A" utilizes the 1-1/4" sump drain hose which can be run to the sewer or to a common drain connection for the camper's interior sink. Option "B" utilizes the Valterra 1-1/2" to 3/4" 90 degree elbow to drain into a 5 gallon gray water tank.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    6-1/2" were cut off the legs of the step ladder so that, when collapsed, it, the miscellaneous hoses with 20' of 1-1/4" sewer pump hose would fit inside a 18"x36" water resistant Coleman Duffel bag (pic #15).

    [​IMG]

    The Eccotemp L5 and FloJet pump were mounted to a two step ladder. The pump rests on a 1/2" nylon breadboard as the bottom step was just a little too narrow. I tried a 1/2" piece of plywood but the breadboard is weatherproof and proved to stand up better under wet conditions.

    [​IMG]

    A hot water tank rigid plastic drain tube with 3/4" thread replaced the standard spigot inside the lid and a 3/4"x1/2" hose barb attaches the suction hose end to the outside of the lid. I trimmed the threaded ends of the drain tube and the hose barb so they'd share the threaded portion of the lid better. When transporting water or during storage, the hose barb is removed and replaced with a 3/4" threaded ABS cap. I had tried using a hose inside the lid but it just didn't want to stay down at the bottom of the tank. The rigid pipe works much better after being sealed with a generous dollop of Plumber's Goop.

    [​IMG]

    To speed up setup and take down, quick connector hose ends were used, including on the LPG connections, the male end of which plugs into the camper feed line for the outdoor stove. I've also got the stock bottle regulator with a quick connect fitting just in case we want to take the unit somewhere without the camper.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And voila! Here's the finished unit.

    [​IMG]

    Total setup/take down time: 5-6 minutes.
     
  20. shelmily

    shelmily Well-Known Member

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    Jun 7, 2012
    Northeast Pennsylvania
    Man, you have got to stop doing this to me. I just got done getting some parts for the sink part. Now I have to go and get the rest of this crap. Thank goodness I already have an L5. All joking aside, this is awesome, and I will be doing it. Thanks for all the hard work of figuring out what is needed. I love the idea with the step ladder too. I could have done that to mount the heater when using it before.
     

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