rockwood 1360 top leaks

Discussion in 'General Camping Discussion Forum' started by penny, Nov 9, 2017.

  1. penny

    penny Well-Known Member

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    As promised in introduction, we have just purchased a 2010 rock wood 1460 LTD pop up. It appeared to be over all in very good condition. All was solid, ceiling, sides and floor, beautiful interior in impeccable condition all features worked, canvas was flawless and fiberglass was glossy. I'd been looking for a small pop up to camp in again, and this seemed perfect for the 2 of us. I was a sucker for the nice interior; upholstery, floor and layout, heated mattress, nice clean fridge that worked great and the furnace which was quiet and warm. The sink had never been used and all the paperwork was tucked into the original envelope under the counter. I pressed on all the areas of the ceiling and sides, and they seemed very solid. I asked for the top to be put down, and that's when I should have walked away, but I didn't. It was clear something was the matter, there appeared to be some slightly low spots and signs that water had pooled. but I felt all the sides and top every where and there didn't seem to be any soft spots, so after a bit of haggling and some wishful thinking that there was nothing seriously wrong with the top, I bought it for $3500. I should say that I live in the southwest, and a new camper in such good condition is seldom that inexpensive. I still haven't seen one that I would rather have, if it hadn't had the roof problem. My husband was on board with the camper, and removed the calking from the neglected seams. 1st red flag, there were a lot of them. second red flag, the front side board had some rotten wood, which I missed when pushing on the surfaces. he applied a wood patch to the spot. He did a beautiful job resealing all the seams and we put it up to pack it. That night there was a good rain, almost all night. The slight dip in the front area of the top became a bigger dip and the top begin to leak very badly, all along the center interior seam, the interior ceiling dipping down as well. Right now it is set up, drying out and we have the low spot lifted with a support pole so that maybe the top will dry out in a slightly convex position.
    I sent photos to rock wood and they said it was delaminated and needs a new top. well, we can't afford that and now are forced to fix it ourselves and I'd like to ask for advice. basically my questions are--
    I've tried to find out how the top is constructed, so we know where to safely brace the top from the inside, if necessary. the email from rock wood said:
    "It’s a laminated roof. Its fiberglass/luan on the outside, then aluminum framing and inside ceiling vacuumed bonded. Its 1 piece."
    which tells us nothing really about how best to brace it, if needed. do we have to brace it?
    does the fiberglass skin on this camper top ever become worn enough to be leaky all over or is it only possible to leak from a seam or crack we missed sealing?
    what would be the best product to seal this fiberglass "skin" that covers whatever the top is made of?
    Thank you so much in advance for any and all advice.
     
  2. Customer

    Customer Well-Known Member

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    Delaminating means the layers are separating and usually looks like large bubbles. There really is no fix.

    Common leak locations are around any penetrations like vents, air conditioner, or seams.
     
  3. penny

    penny Well-Known Member

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    I can't spend another $3000 to replace the roof. have to find some way to fix it!
    I see a post here about AC supports, and a man from Forest River told me where to order those, so I guess that will be the first step, to brace up the roof. Running the heater, 3 days of dry weather and a vertical pole bracing the roof has made it look almost normal. which is a relief. I know the first bit of water up there will cause it to belly down again, but maybe bracing and waterproof coating will repair it enough to use normally for a while.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2017
  4. nineoaks2004

    nineoaks2004 Every meal is a picnic and every Day is a holiday

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    a lot of the leaks are fro around the AC, the gasket has a tendency over time to compress and start leaking, check the 4 bolts inside (under the inside cover) and see if they are loose.
     
  5. penny

    penny Well-Known Member

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    our camper doesn't have an ac, just a vent and fan. we hardly every camp where there is electricity anyway, and usually in the higher elevations where it is cool. but thanks!
    We do have a plan though. A technician at Forest River was very helpful, and sent me instructions on how to instal the ac support kit, which if we installed where the major sag is, would hopefully eliminate most of it. we need more than 2 support bars in the kit though, so we will use 1 1/2" square aluminum tubing with 1/8" gauge thickness. Two in the front and one in the back should support all the saggy spots in the roof. then we will reseal the top with one of the many good sealers available. Hopefully that will make the little house safe and dry.
     
  6. penny

    penny Well-Known Member

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    Rather than edit, I'll add another post.
    Researching, I've found that aluminum is about 1/3 more "flexible" than steel. So thinner wall steel will be just a little heavier but much more rigid than aluminum, so we will use that instead. It is lighter than unistruts too. I wonder if anyone has a suggestion for an elastomeric sealer? It seems the best choice, over silicon
     
  7. theseus

    theseus Centerville, OH

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    Use silicone caulk liberally on all vents and endcaps. Get the 40 year outdoor 100% silicone. It may not look pretty but if it doesn't leak it will be just fine.

    If you are planning on coating the entire roof, look at products like Grizzly Grip.
     
  8. penny

    penny Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! The skylight and seams are called good now, and grizzly grip is one thing we are reading about. It seems like an elastmeric is maybe more water proof and will flex with campers movement
     
  9. Yak

    Yak Well-Known Member

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    Dicor lap sealant and Eternabond tape, nothing else for sealing

     
    xxxapache likes this.
  10. xxxapache

    xxxapache Well-Known Member

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    Absolutely no silicone. It will eventually fail, then you have a big job trying to clean it off. Dicor is good stuff.
     
  11. penny

    penny Well-Known Member

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    I've heard that, and I agree. unfortunately, my husband used silicone caulk on the seams around the edges of the top. he will use dicore on the other seams, and we want to coat the fiberglass top with something else. hoping elastomeric will be the best thing.
     

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