OK, so for our upcoming trip DH and I just: re-packed the axle grease (probably the only PUP maintenance we stay up to date on) checked/adjusted the tire pressure tightened all the lug nuts to the appropriate 90 ft/lbs I also researched and fixed our awning (see below if interested in those details) changed a blown fuse and tomorrow I will attempt to fix some drawer slides For this next trip (I95 from NJ to FL) I have my fingers crossed about our tires, because I think we're past needing new ones. The tread is good, but I've read (articles published by companies that sell trailer tires) that trailer tires should be changed every 5 or so years. Years ago I killed a bunch of goldfish by following the advice on the fish food jar; I fed them 3 times a day. Then when I asked why my fish kept dying the pet store guy told me feedings 3 times a day was crazy, and said "of course the fish food jar would say that, they want to sell more fish food." This trailer tire advice might be like the fish food advice, but I'll add that we don't use axle lifts when the trailer sits for prolonged periods in our side driveway, so I'm sure there is some uneven wear. Maybe it's just that I read too much about blow-outs on these boards, and would pay good, hard earned money to avoid that, if at all possible. So onto our tires.. Currently we have the original (purchased in 2012 with the PUP): AKURET HF188 ST175/80R13 it's a 5 on 4.5 lug nut pattern I think they are KENDA Loadstars There are perhaps too many choices on etrailer. Do I want Load Range B, C or D? I think C. Technically B is fine, but we're too close to the threshold for my comfort. D is expensive and the associated weight rating is both more then my PUP weighs, more then the axle can hold, and more then my TV can pull. Do I want aluminum wheels, boat trailer wheels, galvanized steel wheels or powder coated steel wheels? What type of wheel corrosion resistance do I need? I'm in inland Northern NJ, but we camp at the beach 1-2 times/year. My wheels/rims seem fine to me, but it works out to be cheaper to buy wheels with tires pre-mounted, then it would cost to buy tires only, and have them mounted on my existing rims. No, we don't have the tools for this particular job, and I'm not interested in getting them. I do change over to my own snow tires annual, but I have a 2nd set of rims for them to make this a DIY job. Do I want Bias Ply or Radial? I think I want radial, but I don't know why. Long trips, less heat build up? And, I would like a higher speed rating, but there seems to be nothing. Maybe I'm shopping on the wrong site? Lastly, my master plan is to order the tires to be delivered to our destination, and have them installed for our ride home. Is that over-kill? We're in Orlando for 2 weeks, then home for a week, and then back in the PUP for a week at the beach. It seems like it has to be Orlando or September. I'm kicking myself for not ordering sooner, but it is what it is. Thoughts? Awning fix details for interested folks: The needed part (aluminum bracket that connects the upright pole to the front awning edge/channel) was not available, without all new hardware. All the historic wisdom on this board seems to indicate that Dometic Awnings are not worth fixing. I went to Lowes to see if I could find something that could work, and while I didn't find anything, I realized that the broken bracket would still work under compression (i.e. would hold the weight of the awning) if I cut off the bent bit, which would allow it back into the channel to sit on the bolt/hinge. Then I just needed something to keep it from flying off in an instance of windy uplift, so I threaded some zip ties, between the hinge bolt and pole bolt, and VIOLA, our awning functions again without copious amounts of duct tape. This is a "buy some time until we get a new awning fix" but I'm good with that as there is still some life in the old awning.