U-Pol Raptor Bedliner Roof Coating (Completed)

Discussion in 'Roof/Floor Repair & Maintenance' started by Dubbya, Jun 10, 2013.

  1. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Aug 2, 2011
    Steinbach, MB
    For anyone interested in spraying or rolling their hail damaged or dented aluminum roof, I highly recommend U-Pol Raptor tintable bed liner kits. Each kit comes with four bottles of bed liner (that screw directly into a shutz gun), a tin of liquid hardener and instructions. The base paint (for tinting) is extra but a required step as the bedliner won't harden properly without it.

    [​IMG]

    While spraying is definitely the way to go with this stuff, I wouldn't hesitate to roll it on either. It's super easy to work with and dead simple to get consistent results. Just know that the overspray will get EVERYWHERE, so cover your garage floor and anything else you'd rather not have sprayed.

    Being that the roof had been through several serious hail storms and what appeared to be the results of a few canoe trips, I also used a gallon of generic "Gold" body filler. Note that regular body filler isn't advised as it lacks the ability to bond well with bare aluminum. I removed the plastic corners and top trim then used a wire wheel to rough up the surface prior to wiping it down with acetone. I then applied a skim coat of body filler which was then cross sanded using a sanding block and 40 grit automotive sandpaper to smooth things out quickly.

    Basically, I spread out a skim coat of body filler, then sanded and reapplied where required. After the second layer of body filler had hardened, I sanded again and wiped it with final wipe. Then I shot the bare metal with self etching primer and regular automotive primer for everything else. I then cross sanded the whole surface with 80 grit paper, an orbital detail sander and my trusty sanding block. This stuff likes a rough surface to adhere to, so there's no need to make sure everything is perfectly smooth. Just so long as the surface is level, you're pretty much good to go.

    [​IMG]

    The primer really shows where the imperfections are and makes it easier to get them sanded down or filled and sanded prior to the paint being applied. That said, the bed liner covers a multitude of sins, so small imperfections, scratches and pinholes caused by air bubbles won't even be noticeable.

    For this project, I used one can of self-etching metal primer and three cans of regular automotive primer and sprayed the entire surface of the roof prior to spraying the bed liner.

    Once I'd levelled out the roof and filled the dents, I gave it another wipedown with "final wipe" and set up to spray.

    [​IMG]

    I used two of the tintable kits sprayed at 60 psi through a "Shutz" gun. This allowed me to spray two coats of bed liner on both the top and sides. The autobody paint supplier I bought the kits from poured eight 75-80ml bottles of white base paint to make mixing consistently a cinch.

    BTW, the paint vapors from this stuff will rock your world but they're nothing a $20 mask can't take care of.

    The manufacturer says each kit covers 100 square feet, so each coat will take a full kit. After having done this, I'd highly recommend THREE coats, (or three kits) just to ensure consistent coverage and to allow for touchups.

    [​IMG]

    Spraying one coat will take about an hour and that's the potable time for each bottle of Raptor before it starts to harden in the bottle. When you're done spraying, be sure to clean the shutz gun with gun wash or acetone after each coat as it takes about an hour to "flash" before you can give it another coat. You can remove tape 15 minutes after you've sprayed your 2nd (final) coat.

    [​IMG]

    I finished spraying the second coat at 10:30 am, removed the tape/paper and let it sit. While we loaded it and the truck for the weekend. I started putting the butyl tape, roof trim and plastic corners back on at 6:00 and had it hooked up and ready to go at 8:30pm. We didn't slide the bag awning into the rail until we arrived at the CG and thankfully, we didn't see any rain until our trip home, so things had more than enough time to cure over the weekend.

    The manufacturer says you can "deliver" after eight hours and that it's fully cured in 5-7 days. I can tell you personally, that after 2 days, it's pretty tough.

    I like this stuff and I'd do it again in a heartbeat. While two coats is adequate, three would be the way to go.
     
  2. Jeff d

    Jeff d Member

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    Jun 5, 2012
    Let us know if it's quieter after the first rain storm. I would expect it would quiet things down. My aluminum roof is so loud I can't even sleep during light rain. It's actually more bearable during heavy rain because it just becomes white noise.
     
  3. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Will do!
     
  4. piscoot

    piscoot Member

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    Sep 27, 2010
    Your spray project is the best I seen yet! Nice work!
    A few question though,
    why the primer coats?
    Does the manufacture state how long the coating last before respray?
    Any mention about UV protection?

    Thanks in advance
     
  5. stef234237

    stef234237 Member

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    Apr 3, 2013
    I used this after the abs repairs on my Coleman . Raptor is Awesome. I did 2 coats rolled on. So far after the storms we have had in NC. It has done well.
     
  6. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Aug 2, 2011
    Steinbach, MB
    As per the manufacturer's instructions, when covering bare aluminum, you have to use self-etching primer to treat the metal and give the product something to stick to.

    Using gray primer on a white surface makes it a ton easier to get uniform coverage while spraying.

    As far as the service life goes, I read a lot of 4x4 forum posts and found users who'd had it last a few years with minor touchups due to rubbing on rocks and trees. The biggest determining factor appears to be the prep and roughing up the old paint properly. Being that it's on the roof in this application and that I followed the instructions provided in the kit, I'd expect it to last several years. Worst case scenario, just wipe it down with paint degreaser and give it another shot.

    The product information says it's "UV resistant" but you can spray it with UV resistant clear coat as well. Being that it's white (mine came out "bone white"), I don't see any need to worry about it fading or deteriorating. If that happens, I'd just run a wire wheel over it, tape it up, wipe it down and shoot it again.
     
  7. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Thanks, stef! That's good to know! I'm sure the DW will feel better about us spending the time and money on it as long as she's sure it's going to last.
     
  8. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Aug 2, 2011
    Steinbach, MB
  9. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

    6,125
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    Aug 2, 2011
    Steinbach, MB
    Here's the paint I used for the bottom aluminum trim at the bottom of each side and end board (where the roof gasket goes).

    [​IMG]

    I used a sanding belt cleaning stick (giant crepe rubber eraser) to rub off the bulk of the silicone sealant then used final wipe solvent to remove any remaining residue. It's an arduous task to be sure but bitter perseverance and dogged determination got it done. I removed the screws from the top edge of each trim piece then used an orbital detail sander to smooth out any flaked paint and rust (from the screws) prior to replacing the original screws with 5/8" #10 screws. They're a little larger than the originals but I wanted to be sure they'd bite into the wood securely.

    I then papered and taped above and below the trim to avoid over-spray before giving the trim three solid coats of paint.

    The top sideboard trim was washed and cleaned prior to laying a 1" strip of butyl tape over the top edge of the roof and down onto the side board (covering and sealing the aluminum lap) and fastening it in place with 1" #10 screws. Again, the #10's are larger than the original screws but they bite into fresh wood using the same screw holes. The plastic corners were wet sanded with 800 paper, then sprayed with three coats of Krylon Fusion Satin Dover White (Bone White) paint (specifically for plastic).

    With the roof seal on and plastic corners painted and cured, I then used a caulking tube ($9.00) of Marine Goop sealant to seal up the all of the roof trim and didn't need to bother with butyl tape under the plastic corner caps so that they'd seal with a thin bead of Marine Goop under them. I like using Maring Goop but I did find that you have to be extremely careful not to apply too much and to build up layers slowly as it's really runny even after it skins over and will dissolve uncured paint while you're desperately trying to wipe off the excess (ask me how I know).

    If that happens, don't panic! Just leave it to harden for a day and rub the sealant off later. For the most part, the paint hardens again and, IF YOU'RE PATIENT you won't likely be able to tell that there was ever a problem.

    No worries, cured Marine Goop (like any of the Goop products) is hard to get off but it does come off cleanly if you just keep rubbing on it. I so much prefer Marine Goop over silicone or Lap sealant as it dries clear, it's UV resistant, paint-able and doesn't let go. Even if it does, it's more easily removed than silicone or Lap sealant and it's easily reapplied.

    After everything was cured, I reattached the corner reflectors, put in the new 1" vinyl screw trim and reinstalled the awning bag. Done! I forgot to take a photo but I'll get that done some time soon.
     
  10. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Steinbach, MB
    Here's the finished product with a shiny new Fan-Tastic vent and my computer fan mod applied.

    [​IMG]

    Fan mod is here


    Painstakingly typed with very large fingers from my teenie, tiny iPhone.
     
  11. stef234237

    stef234237 Member

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    Apr 3, 2013
    Looks great Dubbya. Great work! Here is a pic of mine. I did the A/C cover too [​IMG]
     
  12. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Doncha just love the way that Raptor stuff finishes out? That's a good lookin' roof right there! Thanks for the pic!


    Painstakingly typed with very large fingers from my teenie, tiny iPhone.
     
  13. stef234237

    stef234237 Member

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    Apr 3, 2013
    Thanks Sugar .
     
  14. charliejr362

    charliejr362 1991 Bonair Skamper 210C

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    Aug 23, 2013
    Looks like it turned out great. I have started to do a restore on my 1991 Skamper. I will be working on it over the winter. The top on mine will be getting redone due to the roof vent had been leaking. I have stated scraping the old foam out of the inside and will also have to redo the outside. I was going to redo it with the rubberized stuff they sell at the camping stores, but the U-Pol sounds like it would be a lot stronger and longer lasting. I will Definitely be looking into getting some of this stuff.

    God Bless and Happy camping [PU]
     
  15. stef234237

    stef234237 Member

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    Apr 3, 2013
    So far other than a spot I missed where it was delaminating . It's holding up great. Where it was delaminating I simply drilled holes. Applied gorilla glue. Then used a hook to raise the area back n forth to get the glue under the spot. I had some raptor left over . I then mixed a little raptor and filled the holes. Then recoated with a fresh layer of raptor. That was in July right before an 11 day trip to Gettysburg. It's held up great . My gps took Me down a pig path between Gettysburg and Antetiam. The camper saw some really rough road. So far it's as hard as a rock.
     
  16. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Steinbach, MB
    You sure that wasn't a goat trail? [LOL]
     
  17. steved

    steved New Member

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    May 14, 2013

    Nah, we have pigs here...wish we had goats, they smell better!

    On the corners, yours were just screwed on? Have any trouble taking them off and getting the holes to line back up? I'm thinking of taking mine off the E3 to redo the butyl because its cracked from sitting (but not leaking).
     
  18. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Aug 2, 2011
    Steinbach, MB
    There's just one screw through the side at the top and the screw head tucks partway under the side of the roof edge trim. The bottom ends each have one screw into the front bottom and another into the side bottom edge trim. The very ends of each cap are riveted to the bottom edge trim both to keep them perfectly straight and to keep the plastic from distorting over time.

    I ran a bead of Marine Goop inside the edges of each corner cap and at the top ends of the caps where they tuck under the roof edge trim. Because there wasn't any butyl tape under them, they were a lot easier to keep straight.

    I lined up the old screw holes as best I could with an awl, then secured the cap in place temporarily with the old screws. On the bottom ends, I replaced the old screws with larger #12 screws and washers to spread out the holding power of the larger screws and make sure the plastic wouldn't split. Once the caps were screwed in place, I just held the bottom ends in place by hand, drilled out 1/8" rivet holes through the bottom edge trim and popped in the 1/8"x 1/4" rivets.

    With everything locked in place and after the Goop had set, I ran another thin bead along each exposed edge of the caps, tooled it with my finger, wiped off the excess and let it cure. They're not going anywhere anytime soon.

    You can't see the rivets at the bottom of the corner cap here but this pic should help explain what I'm talking about:
    [​IMG]
     
  19. stef234237

    stef234237 Member

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    Apr 3, 2013
    At best a goat trail lol . There were spots I wasn't sure id get through. It got better after Boonsboro.
     

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