Went on first trip with used camper, few questions/issues

Discussion in 'First Time & New Camper Owners' started by Hockeybjj, Jul 17, 2017.

  1. Hockeybjj

    Hockeybjj Member

    30
    4
    Jul 11, 2017
    Hello all, bought a 94 Jayco 1207 last week and went out with it for the first time this weekend. Overall, it was great. I just have a few questions and have a couple issues that I hope shouldn't be too hard to fix.

    1. How do you know how high to put the pop up?
    -There's no indicator line on the corner supports to tell me where to stop

    2. Do you lower the pop up back onto the door frame?
    -This was a confusing one for us as we've never used a pop up before. What we did was raise the pop up until it looked about right, and then tried swinging the doorframe down into place. The problem we ran into was that the ends of the door frame on the non hinge side would not stay in where the little 1/4" tab looks like it goes. It kept pulling out. What we did was put the door in place and my dad held it while I lowered the pop up a bit. This resulted in it pretty much sitting on the doorframe to put the weight of the roof on it and hold it in place. Is this correct?

    3. Are they supposed to be that shaky side to side?
    -It almost seems like it needs a diagonal support. Pushing the pop up side to side on the canvas even slightly results in the roof/corner supports moving a lot. Is that normal?

    4. 3 way fridge confusion
    - We got it working and on 110 AC the fridge got nice and cold by the morning, but I think we simply got lucky. There is a dial with 12V, off, and 110V written on it. But when you turn the dial, the whole dang assembly moves instead of the dial pointing to which voltage. Above the dial, is what looks like an open/close valve for a gas line. To the left of the valve, is a temperature gauge

    But then, to the right of those controls, is another temperature guage which what looks like a grill spark ignitor (the red depress button) and then another gas line open/close valve

    Hard to tell which mode the fridge is in as there's nothing to indicate which of the 12V, Off, and 110V is currently selected (we went by clicks and got it right), and there's no indication for how to switch the fridge to propane mode?

    Picture here for clarity- http://i.imgur.com/OC5pwlr.jpg

    5. This was possibly the biggest concern, how do you fasten the canvas to the door frame?
    - The way we did was there's a little fold over on the canvas where the seem on the end is, that if you do it carefully can fit under a rim in the door frame. This fold into the ledge method tho is very weak and if there was any wind it would pop it right out. Many time, simply going in and out of the door caused it to come out and then a 1" gap around the door, or even just enough time and it will come out. There is velvco up top (seemingly on the wrong side of the canvas) that you can stretch to pull it tight that seems to help a little but not near enough and would never hold up when needed in wind and rain. Should I add Velcro along the canvas? There is already the male (hook) end of the Velcro in the doorframe, should I just add a strip of the female (fuzzy/loop) to the canvas where it lines us after doing the tiny tuck along the edge?

    bad pic, but maybe helps my description- http://i.imgur.com/yHRbDxRr.jpg

    6. Sink drain leaks badly
    -The Jayco has the foldover sink and counter, and the drain has to sit into another drain in the lower section that then leads to the outlet outside. On our last day, I had the sink about 1/4 full of water doing dishes and then pulled the plug to drain it. When packing up to leave, I found standing water on the ground of the cabinets under there and traced it back to where the two drains meet and a lot of water between the two sections. Are there new gaskets I should be looking at so that the drain coupling point has a proper fit?


    trip was fantastic, and camper was awesome. Just here asking questions so that next time when I take my newer to camping wife with instead of meeting my dad it can be better.
     
  2. bsandey

    bsandey Active Member

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    Jun 9, 2005
    SE Minnesota
    1 and 2, I'm not familiar with this. We had a 1990 Camplite back in the day, and we just cranked it up until it stopped. And the door popped in with no problems. So I can't be of much help with these two.

    3. Yes, you will get swaying from side to side. That's normal.

    4. From the picture, it looks like the entire dial rotates, and which ever it pointing up is the setting you are on. This is just a guess, but maybe you need to turn the electric side off to run it on gas (the controls on the right). If there are no manuals for it, search online for that make and model fridge, or contact the manufacturer.

    5. Hard to tell int he picture. Our pop-up, we had to pull the canvas tight to attach via Velcro on the inside, but then there was a flap at the door that wrapped around and connected to the outside of the door with Velcro again. It held up very well against the wind.

    6. This sounds like it's a bad seal between the sink and the drain pipe. Check the gasket and make sure it's not worn or cracked, and if it is, replace it.
     
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  3. terry1419

    terry1419 Active Member

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    Mar 6, 2016
    Streator, IL
    2. That's usually what I do but be careful so that the roof comes down just enough so there is not a lot of roof weight on the door.
    3. Yes, pretty much normal. You have only one post at each corner for support plus whatever lateral support the canvas provides.
    5. The velcro on the canvas at the top IS NOT on the wrong side. You have to kind of fold the canvas back onto itself and slip the thick edge into the door channel. I had mine for a year before I figured this out and also thought the velcro was on the wrong side. If you start at the top with the canvas folded over so that the velcro patch mates with the one on the frame and then work down, you will see how it goes. If the canvas seems too tight for this to work, you may need to remove the shepherds hook from the bed hoop temporarily so the canvas loosens slightly.
    6. The water often does not drain as well as your home sink so it can pool around that area. Yes, there should be a round doughnut shaped gasket. They are available but prices vary greatly from crazy expensive to reasonable or even low cost. I was ready to make my own out of a dense sponge material but then found an RV dealer in Washington state (can't find the name of it right now) with a few in stock cheap price and shipped free. Try etrailer.com and/or do a search for Jayco sink gasket and you will find them. Also, look to see if the sink drain matches up well with the drain on the counter. If it doesn't, you can adjust the position of the sink. When it is folder down, there will be fasteners holding the sink in place that can be loosened so the sink can be moved as needed.
     
  4. jmkay1

    jmkay1 2004 Fleetwood/Coleman Utah

    2,137
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    Oct 10, 2013
    Northern Virginia
    #1 - there used to be a little green guide wire on mine. However they break a lot. What you can do is use a sharpie on the post by the crank and when you reach the line stop.
    #2 this is what I did too.
    #3 all normal. It can get pretty scary in a bad wind storm, but rest assured it is a sturdy system.
    #5. On a Jayco you have to fold the lip of the canvas into the track on the door. It can be extremely difficult and sometimes it's best to do so before you put the shepherd poles in on the bunk ends. I also used a key to help leverage the fold into the track.
    #6 had this happen to me as well. My seals dry rotted and became worthless. My RV shop did not have any parts but suggested a hardware store or calling Jayco up. Sadly that was when my Jayco died before I had a chance to fix it.
     
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  5. BirdsNest

    BirdsNest Member

    117
    22
    Jun 12, 2017
    Utah
    I'm still a relative newbie with Pop-Ups as well since we've only had our used StarCraft 13RT for a couple of months, but I will say that the first time we set it up, it felt like there was an earthquake any time anyone moved a few inches in one of the bunks. I went out and tightened the bolts on the stabilizers about a half turn past where I had put them (resting "snug" on the ground) and almost all of the shaking stopped. It was still there, but much less pronounced. I can't honestly say if this is a good idea or not since the stabilizers aren't supposed to hold the weight of the trailer, but it made a huge difference for us and they really aren't holding much weight since they are just tight on the ground and not actually lifting the trailer, so I plan to keep doing it that way from now on and hope it doesn't break anything. :)
     
  6. bsandey

    bsandey Active Member

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    Jun 9, 2005
    SE Minnesota
    I thought you were referring to the roof swaying. Yes, you do want the stabilizers good and tight. Not tight enough to raise the wheel, but enough to not allow any sway in the main body of the camper. And if you only have two rear stabilizers, it might be a good investment to get a couple on the front as well. It doesn't have to be attached - There are many that are stand-alone, like these: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...prefix=camper+stab,aps,171&crid=1LHMU7UHE1JMN
     
  7. BirdsNest

    BirdsNest Member

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    22
    Jun 12, 2017
    Utah
    Yes, ours was the trailer body shaking. We had some very heavy wind gusts a few times this last weekend that flipped some tents over, but it really didn't shake the roof of the trailer much at all so I guess that's good. Our trailer does have stabilizers on the front and back.
     
  8. Hockeybjj

    Hockeybjj Member

    30
    4
    Jul 11, 2017
    Thank you the two of you. That makes a lot of sense, that I have to pull it all the way around and the tuck the actual end in, not the tail from the seam. That would also tighten up the bed areas, which was something I thought looked just a little slack. I'll be trying that hopefully in two weeks when I take this out with my wife

    I'll be checking on the status of those gaskets/orings and no doubt have to replace them I would imagine. Also may be a throughput issue? In that pulling the plug out of the sink may be too much and it overruns the gasket? Hopefully I can find new ones somewhere or make my own

    And yes, I'm talking about the roof swaying. The body of the camper is solid so its not the stabilizers, That part felt very good

    Thank you all
     
  9. bsandey

    bsandey Active Member

    149
    50
    Jun 9, 2005
    SE Minnesota
    I didn't look at the name of the poster, and didn't realize it was a different member. I thought it was all related. But, their question was answered as well, so all is good.
     
  10. Alan

    Alan Active Member

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    37
    Mar 18, 2017
    Reno, NV
    They are stabilizers, so snug to the ground is the way to go.

     

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