What? Stabilizers down after the top is up?

Discussion in 'Stabilizing Your Camper' started by MyName, Apr 8, 2018.

  1. f5moab

    f5moab Retired from the Federal Government

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    Somewhere in Idaho
    Wow that's an intelligent reply.
     
  2. 1380ken

    1380ken Well-Known Member

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    A level trailer on flat earth is much more important than whether your stabilizers are down or not.
     
    Bowman3d and myride like this.
  3. giadiep

    giadiep Active Member

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    Syracuse, NY
    Totally agree.
     
  4. giadiep

    giadiep Active Member

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    Sep 5, 2015
    Syracuse, NY
    Totally agree.
     
  5. Boatnman

    Boatnman Well-Known Member

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    western Colorado
    To keep this discussion going...Why does it have to be flat earth? o_O

    I don't think permanent damage to the frame is the issue, it's more about the racking of the frame during setup. As Raycfe pointed out, some people think the stabilizers are to be used as jacks. Jacking up a corner (by over stabilizing) and then raising the roof could cause the frame to flex enough that the door doesn't fit. As BelchFire said, Fleetwood/Coleman wants the trailer to be level and not stabilized when raising the roof to avoid undue stress on the lift system. Since other manufacturers use other lift systems, the setups probably won't be the same. Using the method in the Owner's Manual is the proper method.
     
    myride, XKPin, Bowman3d and 1 other person like this.
  6. Prinler

    Prinler New Member

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    Apr 16, 2018
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    I have 5000lb scissor jacks on all 4 corners. I own a 2001 Keystone Camplite. I am the 3rd owner. I added the jacks because its super bouncy and the 2 tiny rear stabs didnt work well. I can easily lift the wheels off the ground if im on un even ground (mostly boondocking for us). Do i level first then top or top then level I am so confused after reading all the back and forth.
     
  7. myride

    myride Active Member

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    Level side to side using ball/blocks/andersen etc. Level front to back using tongue jack.......raise the roof then stabs down to stabilize only...NOT jack it in the air. Some manufacturers say stabs before raising roof......read your manual for clarification.
     
    mx5tc likes this.
  8. mx5tc

    mx5tc New Member

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    Myride's suggestion has worked for me with my 2000 Rockwood 1620. Lateral, then fore & aft leveling is important if one is using a Dometic ammonia fridge...which I have and like to use. I've tried roof up/stabs down and stabs down/roof up multiple times and always seem to do a little bit better if I drop the stabs b/4 I raise the roof. My evaluation point is how well the swing down door fits in the camper frame. If I raise the roof, pull out the bunks and then put down the rear stabs, the door won't even latch! If I put down the stabs firmly, re-check level, raise the roof, re-check/adjust level, the door latches firmly. If I raise the roof, put down the stabs, re-check/adjust level...the door loosely latches or doesn't latch at all. I've looked at the frame numerous times, it does not appear to be bent and there is no damage history on the camper (I'm the second owner since new). Despite what the "manual says", I know thru hard experience that the "right way" way to set my camper up is to level laterally, then fore & aft, then firmly set the rear Atwood swing down stabs before I try to raise the roof. YMMY, Mitch
     
  9. myride

    myride Active Member

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    Hey...whatever works best for you....if roof doesn't bind on way up...stabs first!
     

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