a refrigerator switch turns off when depressed (normally closed)
you need a normally open that closes when depressed, good luck!
I'd look for Pushbutton Switch SPST-NO Standard Chassis Mount (single pole single terminal normally open)
this one is 5A rated...
Usually there is 'charge' line from the vehicle/trailer connector to the converter red wire batt +.
Splicing into this near the battery location is how my coachmen was wired using red & white wires.
This allows the vehicle to 'charge' while towing and the converter to charge when plugged into...
and the maker of these winches suggests if the ex-tube unscrews something like cable wrap or bent parts is stopping the cable from coming out.
I would try screwing on the tube and supporting the weight, then releasing the pawl to see if it can be lowered as you suggested. Alternatively...
trailer battery is fused but has nothing to do with trailer running/brake lights.
some adapters to add trailer wiring to a vehicle have a fuse for the charge line.
referring to vehicle manual not trailer!
turn the boost down if you can
I had a similar situation, new brakes, I turn up the boost to get them to work. A trip or two later and they were grabbing near home going slow. Turned down the boost and drove 30mph with the brakes applied for several blocks a few times. Work much better now.
uncranking is supposed to take pressure off the brake pad and allow the weight of the roof to pull on the cable/reel and tighten up on the brake. continued uncranking loosens the brake pad which allows the roof to lower and tighten the pad.
I'm suggesting you support the lift arms not the end of the awning.
ie taking weight off the cables once lifted into place, I did it from time to time with out stuff on the roof.
2x4 or similar work well between the top of the box to under the roof side. You can do all 4