Look here ... I asked you a specific question about what you posted; and did so (I thought) in a respectable way. We share our experience, our questions, our findings and whatever technical data with each other. Like I posted to you already, there's what really is and there's the other stuff...
But I'm sure you could then also understand the B.S. factor (and I don't mean "brown sugar").... just because someone posts something, don't necessarily make it so.
Well, I'm certainly impressed with all the tech data (and the equations, too), but I've run the Mr Buddy way longer then 6 hours and all that generated water has certainly NOT plated (condensed) out on any interior surface to any extent that I can recall ... have no idea where it may have went...
Well, that explanation is certainly beyond my level of expertise. However, what is not mentioned, or questionable, is just how much propane is being burned to produce those "relatively large amounts of water". Based on my experience it certainly is not coming from a MrBuddy heater.
As one who has extensively used a MrBuddy heater since they were first available in this area (spring of 2000), and I might add as the sole source of heat for a popup camper, I cannot help wondering what you mean by "large amounts of water". In all of my experience with the MrBuddy I've not...
That's a tough road to travel (near and to the Newfound Gap) in good weather, especially on the NC side, with a lot of cutbacks and sharp turns. As they like to say, sometimes you'll get a glimpse of your rear bumper on those hair pin turns!
I've been caught way back in the mountains off some...
I, too, really like the low end torque especially for the mountains. For the F-150 pick'em up, I see Ford's V-6 EcoBoost matches the torque only with a little more rpms: 365hp @ 5000 rpm = torque is 420 @ 2500. Of course, this is gasoline.
For repairing those hail dents I'd use a two part epoxy flexible filler. You would have to clean the dents good, scuff it, apply the epoxy (you'll have about 8 minutes before it sets) with a bondo spreader. Let it dry a couple of hours, sand it flush with the roof surface and then paint it...
In my travels I always pull into the lane for the regular gas pumps. I always thought those truck pumps where for diesel and since my TV's have all been gasoline, never knew there was any other choice.
Certainly hate taking up enough space for two vehicles, but that's the way it is.
Of course, getting whatever the PO applied removed will be the trick.
Your roof is what Starcraft refers to as a "radius fiberglass roof". For those damaged cracked areas (hail?), depending on the severity, you could clean, then scuff (lightly sand) the area(s) and fill with either a two part...
That is, for your hitch ball ....
We have beat this subject too death before, but just had an email from a member who was hesitant to post the question (I can't understand why!) - anyway, I confessed that I always ever so lightly put a tad of axle grease on the top of the ball and swirled it...
Oh, good grief .... more junk to store and tote along. Consider this:
A) - BALS cost $$ money to buy that might go to other more useful things, like fishing tackle.
B) - they have to be cleaned and oiled and stored someway so it won't rattle around.
C) - what else can the thing be used for...
Around these parts there's always the small claims court where it does not cost an arm and a leg to sue someone for this type of situation. But having said this, I still think it would be a very difficult thing for them to win considering.
I never did. The big warning was that in the event of an accident while on the road the open valve L/P tank could conceivably be a fire hazard. That's always been a deterrent for me.
The Coleman/Fleetwood came originally with the ABS roof and I would treat it like it had the plague (speaking from experience). Plus I have this inherent lack of confidence in a used car/rv dealer - good RV dealers are hard to come by.