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I've had a very minor leak (a few drops per hour) right in the center of the roof if I put the camper perfectly level and the water can puddle slightly on there. I've got the AC removed, cleaned up and a new foam gasket ready to go on that. I've also got the center seam trim removed and am...

The only trailers I've ever seen with parking brakes are military trailers. Just put chocks on the downhill side of the wheels.

True, especially on cheap RV stuff where it's usually all aluminum instead of copper. If it's just a little cooked you can clean it up with sand paper and likely be fine. The new breaker will clamp tighter and you can also find certain designs that make contact on more surface area.

Oh and if the breaker is hot it's almost certainly bad. A new one will be relatively cheap so just replace it and see if that resolves your problem.

What's the noise? Crackling? Like electrical arcing? If so you probably have a bad breaker. You can pull them right out. Usually they pullout from the top with some force and then rotate down and out. You might have to remove the plastic front cover from the converter. Obviously...

$2,500-3,500 buys a whole lot of small parts. If there was some sort of major/expensive issue then you could haul it back to the 3 hr away dealer if you couldn't get service locally. Otherwise just order the part and fix it yourself for minor issues.

I have it in mine and it's ok but I think a pair of ceramic electric heaters from Walmart would work better for around the same price. You could place one blowing right into each bunk end. The optional heat on the ac unit doesn't put out a whole lot of heat and it ends up warming the box...

Not if you take the load off with the tongue jack first. That can be used to take some/all of the load off of the vehicle's suspension and prevent it from compressing further under the load. I still drop my stabilizers even if I leave the trailer attached. It's just as stable and level as it...

Yeah, same deal on my E3. I can open the rear hatch on my ride even with the front king bunk extended.

Yep. I'd say that if it looks pretty much level front to rear at a glance you can make it work. If it's so far from level that you can easily see it then you'll probably need to unhitch unless you're ok with being off level by a noticeable amount front to rear. If it's off left to right you...

I do it pretty regularly with my E2 but not with a wdh. If the site slopes up some then you can level side to side as usual and then use the trailer jack to lift the front up a bit to level front to rear while still attached. If the site slopes down then lynx blocks work well. Stack them up...

All digital ones won't necessarily work. You're pretty safe with any that have batteries in them though. I opted to replace my non-functioning one with another "analog" one as I didn't want to have to worry about battery replacement. Any that you find at Home Depot will likely be for heat and...

There are usually rules defining quiet hours and lack of generators running even for boondocking/dispersed camping in national forests. I'm sure you could get away with it 90+% of the time though.

The heater will "run" all night off of the battery for at least 2-3 nights (it just runs the fan, the heat itself comes from clean burning propane, Bobby). The AC is a whole 'nother beast. Most are 12,000+ BTU and will require an absolute minimum of a ~2,400 watt (Some wont even start on that...

90%+ of the mechanical components that are likely to fail are generic among campers. So you'll likely have the same dometic fridge, furnace ac that can still be found on many other brand's current production model. If equipped you'll likely have a Thetfoed toilet, Suburban water heater, "Brand...

That would work fine for something light like a light. I think it would pull out with the weight of the door pulling straight down on them though.

FYI they aren't regular pop rivets. Regular ones won't hold into that thin plywood, I've tried. You need "exploding" or "banana peel" pop rivets. They're available on eBay and what not. I've never seen them anywhere locally. This is a banana peel type. The exploding ones are a little...

A flashlight app is the thing I use the most when camping. I always seem to pack my actual flashlights away and don't feel like digging for them. Also, when I forget my level (90% of the time) I level my camper with "Handy Level". It gets it close enough.

I'm not familiar with that particular AC but most have a "dual run" capacitor. It's two capacitors in one can with 3 sets of terminals on top. One side is for the fan and the other for the compressor. It's actually a lot more common for one side to fail first and the other continues to work...

I'd investigate the evaporator coil (The one you can see if you look up in there with the filter removed) first for cleanliness. Mine was clogged full of nastiness when I bought it. I'd also check the run capacitor. They're cheap and easy to replace. You'll find it under the plastic shroud...