You missed the part about the relay. Most inverters also have a on/off switch. Generally speaking good electrical design does not run high current or voltage to the switch.The intent appears to be to cut the 12 VDC supplying the input current to the Inverter. For that the disconnect (switch, 'thermostat', wind-up timer, whatever) will need to be sized sufficiently to handle the 12 volt current when the Inverter is actively producing 120 VAC. You're sometimes running a 1,000 watt microwave oven (8.3 amps of 120 VAC)? You'll need a switch suited to carry 1,000 watts of DC (83 amperes at 12 volts) when the oven is in use. No thermostat is capable of carrying 83 amps.
Your Inverter is less capacity and used only for lower consumption items? A 300 watt Inverter (2.5 amp output at 120 VAC) needing 25 amp input at 12 VDC is still beyond 'thermostat' capacity, but might be barely within a heavy-duty mechanical timer's.
A battery disconnect on the Inverter supply is about alll that has sufficient capacity in either situation.
But those are manual. You'd be as likely to forget to turn that off as you are to manually turn off the Inverter.
Not quite right. And several replies to this thread are confusing "Converters" with "Inverters", so be careful what you read.Please, for the electrically uninformed, verify this for me:
Do I have it right?
- If it is a mechanical timer, it functions only as a pass through for the power.
- It works for any voltage up to its rated max.
- NMroamer mentions the Tork C412H. The listing states, "Operating voltage 277 volts". So it would work for say 12v or 24v or 110v or 240v.
We tow a heavier trailer with a 2 liter, so don't worry about the OP. Worry about me instead.If I were the O.P. I would worry more about towing that camper weight with 2 liter engine than worry about Inverter battery drain
What makes an additional timer - mechanical switch - disconnect, with or without a relay, any easier to remember?You missed the part about the relay. Most inverters also have a on/off switch. Generally speaking good electrical design does not run high current or voltage to the switch.
Thus you could wire your switch (or even a mechanical timer, like a oven timer, or a bathroom fan timer) into it.
The timer is a timer, its just a trigger to the relay. It has nothing to do with accessibility, it had to do with load limits of the triggering device.We tow a heavier trailer with a 2 liter, so don't worry about the OP. Worry about me instead.
What makes an additional timer - mechanical switch - disconnect, with or without a relay, any easier to remember?
Note that the issue was not one of accessibility, where having a remote switch with easier reach is practical.
Next time, if the add-on disconnect is forgotten, is yet another switch in parallel to be recommended?
The idle or stand-by load of a typical Inverter is that great to deplete a 12 volt battery overnight?
p.s.: I'm seeing specifications of 0.2 amps of 12 volt input (2 1/2 watts) consumption on a 1000 watt pure sine wave Inverter when there's no AC output being used.
That's 25 watthours (or 2 amp hours) over a 10 hour interval.
p.p.s: The O.P. was requesting information on a 12 volt timer rather than the 120 volt timer the OP had.
Based on that I was presuming the intent was to interrupt the 12 volt supply to the Inverter and THAT interrupter would need to be sized to handle the full DC amperage.
I suppose that a 12 volt timer could be used to shut down the Inverter through the Inverter's remote control port, but if the Inverter's idle consumption is sufficient to drain the battery overnight, is an electric timer going to drain the battery instead?
lol...Wonder when the OP will check his thread?
what triggers the blower motor then?Patrick, there are no relays on my 60 year old furnace, which is working just fine. The thermostat circuit's 24VAC is switched by a "reed switch" in the AA-battery powered thermostat, then the 24VAC opens the gas valve. Wonderfully simple.
And now, back to our regular programming.