12 volts but no power. Cheesy chassis ground?

davez26

Member
Jul 19, 2014
15
1991 Coleman Roanoke
Low options - 2x ceiling lights and a furnace. Converter for Shore Power for same.
We used this for a year or so then into storage for 5 years and back out.
Fresh battery.
First run - no problem. Everything works, some clean, lube, etc. Driveway time, no problem.
This weekend - no DC. We lived with it. (We are still shaking it down, so we expected something...)
Battery 12.5v, inline fuse good, power at fuse @ converter 12.5v. Power at light socket 12.5 v. Whaaa?
Wiring at battery power side, crusty, some copper exposed and blue (corroded), but what struck me was the ground, which seemed like an after thought.
edit

Picture not showing, but it is roughly a rusty sheet metal screw on a ring terminal to the chassis.
With power showing 12.5, I think I have this nailed with a fresh length of 12g wire, ring terminal, ground washer, an actual bolt, and some shrink connectors.
Going to refresh the power side as well.
This seems almost to easy, but I know a clean circuit is a happy circuit-am I missing anything?
 

swordfish

Super Active Member
Sep 27, 2010
2,236
Just to state the obvious. Has the kill switch for the 12v been fully depressed? I assume it is under the kitchen galley like mine. The drain hose could prevent the switch from being depressed all the way.
 

davez26

Member
Jul 19, 2014
15
I have no wiring in the sink area, except for a run to the furnace. No kill switch.
 

swordfish

Super Active Member
Sep 27, 2010
2,236
To state another obvious, do you need to switch between 110v to 12v at the converter?
 

real lite virgin

Rob,Suzanne & Jessie - Black Lab
Apr 15, 2010
773
A bad ground will certainly cause the problem. If you have battery voltage on the ground side of the circuit then that is your culprit. If you have no voltage on the ground side than a bad bulb or a faulty light is the cause.

Rob
 




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