12v lights went out

Discussion in 'First Time & New Camper Owners' started by ksssos, Aug 8, 2011.

  1. ksssos

    ksssos New Member

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    Now I'm feeling ignorant on this stuff. I never checked the outlets with an appliance, such as a lamp. The outlets are not working with the 110 power with the switch on or off. The lights and smoke detector are working, but not the refrigerator. I'm not sure I have a water pump in this pup. So, it's back to the circuit testing to find out why the outlets aren't working. I have the owners manual for the Viking, but it's lacking in any detail for the pup. I will let you know what I find out. Thanks again for your help!

    KS
     
  2. razmichael

    razmichael New Member

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    I'm sure you are mixing up items here. The switches in the external panel are only for the 3 way fridge and have nothing to do with anything inside the camper. With the fridge you have the option of running it 12v (from the battery but this will run your battery down in no time - generally only used when connected to the TV - 120 v - great for when plugged into shore power, and finally with both off you run from propane). Lots of information in other sections on how to use the fridge but keep in mind it takes many many hours to cool of the fridge and there is no compressor so no sound. There should be an inline fuse in this compartment as well but again - this is for the fridge. In my Viking there is also a 120 outlet in the compartment where the fridge is plugged into.

    Assuming this is now "sorted out", is everything else working as expected? If not then please let us know the model of the converter (or a photo). My Viking is 1998 and the converter, despite being old, has an automatic switch over to change from battery to converter (for the 12v) as soon as plugged in. Many older converters use a manual switch. Take any advice on wiring with a grain of salt because you can never underestimate the strange and weird things previous owners may have done - you should see the mods I have made!
     
  3. DelorFamily

    DelorFamily Member

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    I leave my battery hooked up while plugged into shore power all the time. When plugged into shore power, the converter charges the battery [:D] The only issue I have ever had is when my converter failed, but that is a different story!
     
  4. ksssos

    ksssos New Member

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    Okay. My bad again. That would make sense that the external panel is for the fridge. I will plug the pup into shoreline power and flip the 110v switch in the ext. panel to on and see if it starts to work after a couple hours.
     
  5. razmichael

    razmichael New Member

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    A couple of things to keep in mind with the fridge. Firstly the PUP should be as level as possible for the fridge to work properly. Secondly you will read about people pre-cooling the fridge for 12 or more hours to get the internal temperature down. However to make sure it is being powered the external metal cylinder type part contains the heating elements and propane heater and it will become too hot to touch in much less time. If you do some searchs on the site you will find lots of info on how the fridge works. Does your fridge compartment (external) have a 120 outlet with the fridge plugged into it?
     
  6. ksssos

    ksssos New Member

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    You're not going to believe this, but the problem with the 110 was a GFI on one of the outlets that needed to be reset. I can't believe I overlooked this. Problem solved. :) Everything seems to be in working order, at least to my limited knowledge.

    Thanks for all your assistance guys (especially JT and Raz) and I hope I can pass along the favor someday to someone else.

    Yes, the fridge has a plug outside in the exterior panel. I'm not sure what you mean by "external metal cylinder type part" though...
     
  7. JT2

    JT2 Member

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    Will you stop stealing my next suggestion! Geez....some people! <wink>

    I was signing in to suggest a fuse or breaker on the 110 side but you found it first...well done again.
    As my Brit friends say "you should be well chuffed" (happy and content) at the results.

    And your knowledge is getting significantly less-limited by the day.

    One possibly useful hint on the fridge: although it's true it'll take 18-24 hrs to get seriously cold, plug in the 110 and do whatever switch mojo you need to do to energize the fridge. Come back in an hour or so and open the outside access door.VERY CAREFULLY begin touching things you see; certain components should be hot. If so, you may reasonably assume things are working.
    ('course if you want to leave it on 24 hrs, that's OK and you'll see how cold the box can get. Ours can make ice in the freezer!)

    The fridge has a heating element that heats up a chemical which then circulates and pulls heat out of the food box. (You don't "make cold", you remove heat...) Whether running on 110, 12VDC or gas, they all provide the initial heat through either an electric coil or an open gas flame.

    The removed heat has to go somewhere, so things outside the box get hot. The system is designed to be cooled by outside air. So expect various things to be hot to the touch as the system goes to work. Use great care--some can get REALLY hot.

    Additionally, and for reasons I've never fathomed, my fridge unit has just the slightest vibration when its on...I can feel the gentlest vibe or buzz in my fingertips, an instant indication that at least there is power to the unit.

    So for now, this is "case closed" or perhaps asked and answered. You did the work, we just stood around kibbitzing.

    Good luck with the PuP...you're gonna' love it!

    Peace
    JT
     
  8. ksssos

    ksssos New Member

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    Thanks JT,

    The fridge is on and "warming up."

    As your Brit friend would say, "Cheers!"

    Taking the pop up out in about a week and I can't wait.

    KS
     
  9. bruceac1

    bruceac1 Member

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    Sorry, but you actually nave it backwards. You "close" a switch to turn on the light and "open" the swatch to turn off the light.
    One thing you might think about while you are working on your system. Try making a sketch of the wiring, using boxes for the appliances, lights, battery, and the converter. Don't forget the plug to the TV. Show grounds and whether it is + or - 12v or 110v AC? I had to do this for my pup since the owners manual is just about worthless.
     
  10. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    deleted, I missed page 2
     

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