veloandy
Member
I just got this old Coleman. It's really cool and pulls well behind my Vanagon but needs a lot of rehabilitation before I can take it camping. I just posted an intro thread here.
It's cool that it's so old that the roof is just a metal frame with a single layer of aluminum, so there's nothing to rot up there.
The first order of business is to make it less of a hassle to use.
1. The door hatch was a pain to use -- you had to wiggle the key just right for it to turn and then if you twisted the handle all the way open, the lock bar would get stuck inside the door until you teased it back out because it was just a little too short. I took the hatch apart and replaced the slightly-too-short lock bar with a piece of scrap steel I had in my garage. I also pulled all the tumblers out of the lock cylinder so it turns with a screw driver -- I figure if someone wants to break into my trailer bad enough to jab a screwdriver into the keyhole, it would probably be in my best interest to minimize damage. After pop-riveting it back together it works great. YAY!
2. The top was REALLY hard to crank up -- Like the top crank wouldn't move around at all, and I could only raise the top using the bottom crank, pulling hard enough to drag the trailer tongue around, and that couldn't be right. I checked the cables (all OK) and gave the wiffletree some much-needed grease, but it was still really hard to crank. I figured it might be the bearing so I took it apart again to disassemble it and realized this pin (#8) was sheared off:
So as I cranked up the top, the threaded rod wasn't held back by the collar (#5) or spinning the bearing (#6) and the threaded rod (#10) was just pressing into the frame crossmember at the rear with the whole weight of the top. I removed the bearing, dug out the solidified 1960s grease, cleaned it in lacquer thinner, repacked it, and replaced the split pin with a new one from the hardware store. Once it was all back together, it cranks up pretty easily with the faster upper crank (which I couldn't even turn before). YAY!
I kind of like how this camper is built to be totally torn down with the "1960s guy tool kit" (pliers, adjustable wrench, hammer, drill, punch, and pop rivet tool).
I also pulled off half the canvas, washed it, and attempted some repairs...the canvas doesn't look so bad in the pics, but the string holding it together is turning to dust and it has some significant rips. When I'd attempt to sew them up, the canvas wanted to rip where I placed the threads (and sewing it with my home sewing machine was way harder than any other upholstery project I've tackled before). I'll probably end up ordering a new canvas.
Next steps:
It's cool that it's so old that the roof is just a metal frame with a single layer of aluminum, so there's nothing to rot up there.
The first order of business is to make it less of a hassle to use.
1. The door hatch was a pain to use -- you had to wiggle the key just right for it to turn and then if you twisted the handle all the way open, the lock bar would get stuck inside the door until you teased it back out because it was just a little too short. I took the hatch apart and replaced the slightly-too-short lock bar with a piece of scrap steel I had in my garage. I also pulled all the tumblers out of the lock cylinder so it turns with a screw driver -- I figure if someone wants to break into my trailer bad enough to jab a screwdriver into the keyhole, it would probably be in my best interest to minimize damage. After pop-riveting it back together it works great. YAY!
2. The top was REALLY hard to crank up -- Like the top crank wouldn't move around at all, and I could only raise the top using the bottom crank, pulling hard enough to drag the trailer tongue around, and that couldn't be right. I checked the cables (all OK) and gave the wiffletree some much-needed grease, but it was still really hard to crank. I figured it might be the bearing so I took it apart again to disassemble it and realized this pin (#8) was sheared off:
So as I cranked up the top, the threaded rod wasn't held back by the collar (#5) or spinning the bearing (#6) and the threaded rod (#10) was just pressing into the frame crossmember at the rear with the whole weight of the top. I removed the bearing, dug out the solidified 1960s grease, cleaned it in lacquer thinner, repacked it, and replaced the split pin with a new one from the hardware store. Once it was all back together, it cranks up pretty easily with the faster upper crank (which I couldn't even turn before). YAY!
I kind of like how this camper is built to be totally torn down with the "1960s guy tool kit" (pliers, adjustable wrench, hammer, drill, punch, and pop rivet tool).
I also pulled off half the canvas, washed it, and attempted some repairs...the canvas doesn't look so bad in the pics, but the string holding it together is turning to dust and it has some significant rips. When I'd attempt to sew them up, the canvas wanted to rip where I placed the threads (and sewing it with my home sewing machine was way harder than any other upholstery project I've tackled before). I'll probably end up ordering a new canvas.
Next steps:
- Tape over the seams on the top and repaint it.
- Fix the broken wheels on the bed slides (which cause them to sag and drag over the stored dinette cushions, ripping the upholstery)
- Paint the body
- Replace the cracked old wiring to the tail lights to make them actually bright enough to do anytihng
- Order, receive, and install new canvas
- Clean the inside and prime everything with Killz, followed by new paint
- Reupholster the dinette cushions
- Build a new swing away kitchen
- New tires
- Maybe a new Dexter Torsion Axle with electric brakes
- Add a 20mm ammo can tongue box
- Solar panel, battery, interior lights, and a diesel heater
- Add a Port-a-potty
