1992 Flagstaff - Looking for advice about roof material and lifting mechanism.

Discussion in 'Roof/Floor Repair & Maintenance' started by 92_Flagstaff, Aug 15, 2009.

  1. 92_Flagstaff

    92_Flagstaff New Member

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    Thank RFryer, T-Bone, and awsandlin for your kind words. I'm not sure its priceless, but we're enjoying the process.

    Ray if you find time, I'll be very happy to get my hand one some instructions for this faucet. It has three inlets, and that white wire loop. Even if your instructions are slightly different, they may help. I've looked every where online, and came up empty.

    You can email me at: glastron @ live . ca

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    SHURflo probably made this faucet (Model 131-?) but they have every manual online except for this older faucet.

    After a second look, it appears to have its own built-in version of a P-trap (sort of). I'll just hook the drain up straight to that fitting.

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  2. Goldens

    Goldens Member

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    You've been doing a great job on the PU, fantastic documentation on the work you have done, I've enjoyed reading your thread. [​IMG]

    I have posted some detailed pic's of the round trap on this thread that might interest you.

    We have the same 3 way faucet, I have also searched for installation instructions with no luck. I have the city water going to the middle, and the holding tank hooked up to one of the others for use with the hand pump and the other one capped off like your pic shows. I have no 12v pump (yet)

    I would also be very interested in how anyone has hooked this up for use with the hand pump & 12v pump.
     
  3. 92_Flagstaff

    92_Flagstaff New Member

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    Many thanks Golden. I wondered what that little screw was on the bottom. Good pics in that thread.
     
  4. 92_Flagstaff

    92_Flagstaff New Member

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    Had a busy week, so I accomplished very little until today. Started today by installing the tee-fitting in the LP line, and ran new lines to the fridge and stove. I ended up putting the tee in the center, knowing that this could make the fridge harder to start. Fridge still lights well, which I have since tested.

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    I need to purchase a couple of grommets, but otherwise the LP lines are complete. Tested all connections with liquid soap and water. All is well.

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    While I was at it, I cleaned the stove up. Looks okay.

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    Next step was to mount a surface outlet, allowing for the 120V fridge connection. I simply cut into the existing line, and wired the outlet in series.

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    Next step was to make the lower baffle plate. I cut aluminum flashing running straight in towards the fridge, then up, and out to the lower side of the upper vent opening. Turned out well.

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    I screwed the outer edge to the existing vent opening, both upper and lower.

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    It sits about 1/4" or so away from the fridge coils, and should work well.

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    I added reflectix material on both sides, and filled in the gaps with adhesive aluminum foil to seal it all up. The conduit you see is the lifting rod for the roof.

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    I also cut a sheet of aluminum to cover up the damaged floor covering and clean it up a bit.

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    There is a lot of room to access the necessary switches and flame ignition. Should be no problem for routine maintenance later.

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    Next on the agenda was to focus on the upper vent.

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    I insulated on both sides of the fridge with standard fiberglass batten, and then added a layer of reflectix on the top and taped the joints.

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    I used reflectix on the sides in this upper vent area as well.

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    With the exception of a 12V supply line, the fridge install is done. Its running on propane now, and cooled to 46°F now after a couple of hours.

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  5. awsandlin

    awsandlin Active Member

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    Again, you did a great job. Very detailed and better than the factory would have done it.
     
  6. 92_Flagstaff

    92_Flagstaff New Member

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    Luckily, I was able to remove that little drain screw without any problem. Cleaned out the drain accordingly, and re-assembled.

    I attached the city water to the center connection, and the potable water for hand pump to the open connection. I left the plugged connection as-is. Had to buy a new drain line, which sounds simple but is not easy to find. I tried the hardware store black rubber version but it kinked too easily and proved useless. I ended up buying a ribbed drain line from the RV dealer. Not cheap, but works great.

    I haven't hooked up a 12V water pump yet, but might next year. I'd probably go with a different faucet if I installed a pump. If I had city water pressure or pump pressure, I'd prefer a tradition faucet handle without a hand pump where you just open it to turn the water on.

    When I flip my sink over for travel, it drools out the faucet spigot. Is it normal to have a water shut-off at the sink to prevent it from siphoning out the potable water storage tank? The water level in the full tank may be above the faucet spigot if it was full. Either way, mine runs out to the floor.

    I have an extra water shutoff valve for the 3/8 tubing. Wasn't sure where it belonged. Now I think I know where it went...lol



    Good news...the fridge running for 12 hours on propane (overnight) is down to 24°F ! It appears the air flow circuit helps.
     
  7. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

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    I too agree this install looks much better than any factory job. Very nice looking, clean, and functional.
     
  8. 92_Flagstaff

    92_Flagstaff New Member

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    Thanks RFryer and awsandlin,

    I just did what seemed to be the correct way to install it after researching it online. That fridge gets really hot in the back, and I didn't want the excess heat to seep into the camper through crevices. This time of year it might be nice to have extra heat, but in the summer months (camping season) I suffer in the humidity as it is. Added bonus it that any CO2 or propane issues should vent out to atmosphere well. I suppose a LPG and/or CO2 detector would be a wise investment.

    The upper vent (running on propane anyways) gets noticeably hotter than the lower intake vent. That a good sign there must be air circulation. I'll probably toss that thermometer in the upper vent area next year just for curiosity. I need to install screens behind the vents in the spring.

    May or may not get camping again this season. Busy, busy, busy at work with lots of travel. Most campgrounds around here have closed, or will be closing shortly for the season.

    Added a pic of the venting just for clarity. Center baffle extends 8" inward from outer skin, and is 6 inches high. Upper baffle is only slight tilted upwards as the fridge height is almost as high as the pup. Only had enough room for one small layer of reflectix between the top of the fridge and the counter-top. Even then, it was compressed.

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  9. Billy33

    Billy33 New Member

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    Hi!
    I read your full article re all the repairs and mods with great interest. The person that sold the unit to you for $100 could not have sold it to someone better. If you ever on sell someone will get a great buy.
    Regards.
    Billy33
     
  10. 92_Flagstaff

    92_Flagstaff New Member

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    Thanks Billy,

    I haven't added up my receipts yet, but I'm pretty sure I could sell it for more than i have into it. I suppose that's the goal. I have had a few older tent trailers over the years, and I don't think I've lost money on them yet. If we seem to be using this one, I may consider selling off to upgrade to a larger one. We'll see.
     
  11. 92_Flagstaff

    92_Flagstaff New Member

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    I was lucky today and found a local ad listing 4 BAL stabilizers with the leveler pads. This trailer only has two factory stabilizers in the rear, and relies on the tongue jack to support the front. We had issues with our frame flexing and allowing the locked door to swing open when we are in bed for the night.

    I was able to get a set of (4) 17" stabilizers for only $25. He also included the 14" crank handle.

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    These are dusty, but not rusty. They are not that old, and were removed from a late 90's era Rockwood pup in favor of scissor jacks.

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    We also took a drive through a local provincial camping park today (Bronte Creek). I've known the camping section was there for a few years, but never laid my eyes on it. Of course, anyone from the area would likely have been to the park's day-use area at some time. It located very close to major cities, and is nestled in a residential area and protected wildlife area.

    I was surprised at the layout, and the fact that they did have some wooded sites. We've booked in for the Oct 24th weekend, as they are having a Halloween activity. Hoping the kids will enjoy that, and that we don't get too cold.

    http://www.brontecreek.org/bronte-creek-family-events-children-activities.htm

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    The Woodland and Ravine areas are closed for the season, but the Savannah and Prairie areas are open thru to Oct 24th weekend.

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  12. 92_Flagstaff

    92_Flagstaff New Member

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    I have the installation instructions that came with these used BAL stabilizers, and I even have the mounting screws. Interestingly, I googled for images of stabilizers installed on pups and came up with dismal images. I know I can install them fine, and it looks like they will need to be at about 45° facing inwards from each corner in order to catch my secondary frame rails while have two solid mounts at the crank end at the corner of the frame.

    The threaded rod doesn't extend much past the wall corners, but the round sand pads do. I'm just curious if anyone has any pics of their stabilizers, installed on a pup as reference material?

    I crawled under a few pups at the RV show this weekend, and I see most of them have additional supports welded in. I'm curious if that's the norm. I'm not really worried about the overhang past the pup wall, but should I be?

    The thin red lines in this image are to show what is about a 2-1/2" overhang of the floor past the frame. The red circle shows the sand pad extending past. Hope its clear.

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  13. 92_Flagstaff

    92_Flagstaff New Member

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    Found a little bit of energy, so I decided to install one tonight to see how it looked. I flipped the sand pad upwards when I brought it up to prevent pad rattle while travelling. Is that the normal routine with BAL stabilizers?

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    With three self tapping machine screws, installation went quickly. Please ignore the rusty frame... that's next project for next spring.

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    This is the corner that sags when the bunks are weighted down. I don't think we'll see any more sag :)

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  14. awsandlin

    awsandlin Active Member

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    That looks good to me. I don't see that you would have any issue.
     
  15. 92_Flagstaff

    92_Flagstaff New Member

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    I've had a few people asking me how much I have invested into this trailer. My initial guesstimate was around 6 or 700 dollars. I decided to tally up the receipts, and it came in at just over $1K CDN. This should be quite accurate as I kept every receipt in one spot. If I am missing something, it would be a minor item. While it is higher than I thought, I'm not disappointed as I think I could sell it for a profit based on current market conditions. Odds are I could use it for a season or two and lose little, if any, of my investment. Time will tell.

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  16. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

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    I'm always amazed at how quickly the little things (screws, fittings, etc) add up. Have you figured out how many hours you've put into it or don't you want to do that [:D]

    Ray
     
  17. 92_Flagstaff

    92_Flagstaff New Member

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    Countless number of hours Ray, but a lot less since the roof is essentially complete.

    Just got back from our 3rd trip in it so far. Just me, youngest DD, and the dog. We share b-days within a few days of each other so I thought since she put so much effort into this trailer we would try and squeeze one last trip in before snowfall.

    She cooked me lunch on my b-day:

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    SW Ontario had been covered in lady-bugs lately. These are the pale orange kind, and occasionally take a little bit if they're bored. My daughter ran the camera, so we ended up with quite a few pics of these Little fellas.

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    Weather was fantastic. Really lucky in that it was not cold at all.

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    The majority of the park was closed for the season, but they keep one section open all year (except December). I met up with quite a few campers form another online forum, great people.

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    Camper worked out really well.

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    Safe journeys....
     
  18. OAmendolaro

    OAmendolaro New Member

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    Very nice job!!
     
  19. phoodieman

    phoodieman Active Member

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    I'm about $700.00 into my restore. I rebuilt the roof and all of the underside lift system. Luckily I had the Goshen, so the expense and labor was a lot less than pre 94 Flagstaff models. Only had to add a fan to the AC. Fridge, heater, range all worked great and that was a surprise considering the abuse the PUP went through. I redid the counter tops with scrap OSB just to have a working PUP, but now I'm going to leave them as they came out very well. You might think OSB would be a terrible replacement for a counter top, but I fitted them then used a heavy grit belt to take off the roughest of the surface. I put four or five heavy coats of varnish and I am so pleased I'm going to leave them in. It has a rustic look that I like. Hot water and inside shower is next. Then port a potti. My point is even a PUP you might think is beyond saving is probably not. (Of course I already have a good tool infrastructure in place and didn't count that in any expense). You would need a good base of tools to attempt a restore so if you don't have one you would need to factor that in.

    Phoodieman
     
  20. 92_Flagstaff

    92_Flagstaff New Member

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    Good point Phoodieman. Like you, I already had the tools required to complete the task. Power tools included drills, screw drivers, sawzall, table saw, jig saw, compound saw, universal mutli-saw, belt sander, and a router. I probably could have completed the task with less tools but they made the job easier. My daughter had a good time learning about each, and trying to understand why I used one saw instead of another.

    Unfortunately my table saw clutch or gearbox suffered a fatality during the process (just by chance), so I need to look at fixing it I suppose.
     

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