1994 coleman destiny rio grande roof rebuild

Discussion in 'Roof/Floor Repair & Maintenance' started by Direwolf, Sep 2, 2015.

  1. Direwolf

    Direwolf New Member

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    Hello
    just started on a complete roof rebuild last night.
    I have a few holes in the roof that have water logged the foam.

    I removed all the tent material last night and the rear bed tray.
    I plan to detach the roof in the next day or two.
     

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  2. Jeepguy93

    Jeepguy93 Active Member

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    I know that view all to well. Ive always wanted a rio grande so gonna be worth the rebuild!!!
     
  3. Direwolf

    Direwolf New Member

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    I built a 2 x4 frame around the top and raised it w rope & pulleys. A buddy of mine helped me rotate it so it is upside down. To 2x4 frame helped so that the top did not touch the floor. Then raised it back up & lined it up w the trailer so that the 2x4 are on top of the lifts. Measured all screw holes twice and began removal of the rot.
     

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  4. Direwolf

    Direwolf New Member

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    Scraping out the foam. The front and rear panels are almost totally soaked. I'm putting the scraping from each panel into separate trash bags to weigh. I don't have the ability to weigh the entire top today, but should be able to sum the weight of the material I remove and whatever is left at a later date. So far the shorter soaked end panels feel like they weigh 4x the unsoaked long panel scrapings.

    I need to learn more about the center seam & would like to put a bow into the top.

    And my top does not have plywood at the corners. It is aluminum, then foam, then luann with some metal strip throughout the sides.
     

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    WhatdidigetInto likes this.
  5. Direwolf

    Direwolf New Member

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    The foam is out from all 4 sides. I will begin evaluating the ceiling.

    The driver side edge is in bad shape. I knew it had some bond when I purchased, but the extent is concerning.

    Suggestions on patching? Something from the inside and then bondo/epoxy from the outside & paint over?

    I would like to get a spray coat on it, but I can't spray. I either need to find a shop that can do it white (2 local shops only do black) or roll on the product. I am fine with rolling it on.
     

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  6. Direwolf

    Direwolf New Member

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    I've started on the ceiling and have slowed down considerably.

    The thin plywood is water damaged, but the foam appears dry. The plywood must have wicked water from the wet sides.

    I am trying to remove the luan/plywood, but leave the foam. I can't remove the foam with luan/ply in place because of the structure the glued luan/foam create.

    I'm tempted to leave the undamaged plywood in place and glue paneling over it.
     

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  7. Direwolf

    Direwolf New Member

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    Since the plywood is water warped in some perimeter areas, I am going to remove all plys down to the foam. I may leave the last ply so as to minimize foam damage.
    I still plan to use 1x to build the box for the sides. I've read about warping concerns, but it will still be 100x better than what I have.
    For the ceiling, I am going to use 1x3s laid flat to create a perimeter box and then 3 additional 1x3s to provide support from side to side spaced evenly.

    My aluminum cover is rounded and there was a rounded fiberboard material that was placed in the edge. I need to replace it all - water soaked. Here is a picture of a dry piece and a water logged piece.

    I am thinking of replacing it with pool noodle material or spray foam. Thoughts?
     

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  8. Direwolf

    Direwolf New Member

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    1) wrt the edge material, it appears that the screws for the awning go into it, even though there was no bite into the mdf. I need to shape some wood to go into the edge.

    2) about the plan for the ceiling. I am still going to make the sides out of 1x material. I will also make a ceiling perimeter frame out of 1x material. But I am leaving most of the ceiling foam in place. It is all bright white and dry. The luan is also dry after the area that wicked moisture.
    I plan to lay another sheet of luan over the existing ceiling and screw into the perimeter frame and into existing good luan.
     

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  9. 4campers+g-kids

    4campers+g-kids Member

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    Big job, looks like you're doing fine so far. Eternabond on the outside seams will make sure it will never leak again. You can roll Grizzly Grip on over that.
     
  10. mattnmeme

    mattnmeme New Member

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    Following since we have a 1993 Rio Grande and our ceiling needs to be eventually repair/rebuilt from a past leak that was repaired by the previous original owner. We are the 3rd owner and we love it! We are not handy so I'm reading up as much as I can so I can evaluate if this something my husband can do or if we want to hire someone to do it for us. Looking forward to your continued updates and pictures!
     
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  11. Direwolf

    Direwolf New Member

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    I've ordered the grizzly grip. They suggested the 4x8 truck kit plus an additional qt. (~$190) They also suggested the 2 part epoxy primer if there was a lot of bare metal. My top is 22 years old, but there is still paint on most of the metal. I opted out since it was an additional $60+. Wherever I use bondo or there is metal, I plan to use an automotive self etching spray primer.

    I also purchased enough eternabond for the corners, center seam , drivers edge that has holes (see picts above) and passenger edge for the awning rail connection. I read that the eternabond seals onto screws that go through it.

    I've been cleaning various metal rails, scraping caulk etc.

    Does anyone have knowledge or an opinion on how "clean" the inside of the aluminum has to be to adhere it to the new wood sideboard?

    Tonight & this weekend will be assembling to structure and interior component painting , as well as reattach in to the trailer.

    Next week will be the external surface work
    In the bottom 2 picts
    1) I was concerned about the center seam leaking & being undetected due to the vinyl so I cut a few strip in the vinyl. No luan discoloration so I am assuming no leaks.

    2)this one is scary - look at all the pinholes that appeared underneath a small oval sticker. Amazing. Another reason I went with grizzly grip because there may be more like this that I can't see
    More picts to come....
     

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  12. 4campers+g-kids

    4campers+g-kids Member

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    Sounds like once you get that done the camper will be good to go for another 20 or so years!
    Yes, the screws will seal in the eternabond, I wouldn't do it, but if you got to you got to. Try acetone to clean the aluminum, I know there is a specific formula to clean it but can't remember what. I think someone used a dremel type tool with a brass brush.
     
  13. Direwolf

    Direwolf New Member

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    Slow & steady
    With 3 kids & extracuriculars, work, other home chores, that's all one can ask for....

    The new awning came in today from shademaker. I ordered it wed- that was fast.
    The eternabond came in as well.

    I'm cleaning the foam residue from the inside of the aluminum for a better adhesive grip. I am using a wire wheel & it really heats up the aluminum. I don't want to damage anything. I hope its good enough (pict)

    Bought 2 big tubes of loctite Pl premium and a urethane caulk. Will post pict soon.

    Picts below include the lift connection pockets rusted as they came out of the camper. I sanded them, treated w a rust inhibitor & I'm painting.

    The top has to come together tommorrow . Then flip over sun or Monday & reattach to the lifts.

    Exterior work nights next week.
     

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  14. 4campers+g-kids

    4campers+g-kids Member

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    The lift pockets look nice after the rust removal and paint job. On the aluminum maybe try some adhesive remover to soften the glue residue. You don't want to get it too hot or it will ruin the strength of it.
    Keep posting!
     
  15. Direwolf

    Direwolf New Member

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    two steps fwd, one step back

    1)finished priming the interior aluminum
    2) shaped a 2x2 into the same rounded form a the mdf that originally came on the interior edges. I only used wood on the side that the awning rail connects to. The mount screws will go into the wood. For the other 3 sides, I used 3/4" pvc to fill the space & create the round shape.

    3) I had originally planned to place the new wood 1x pieces on the aluminum & mark the shape. Assembling this way would need to use a metal bracket since the wood ends would not come together completely (see previous picts during deconstruction. I then changed my mind & decided to use the rails from the bottom of the aluminum to determine the board length and build a box. I laid the box onto the inverted top. Problems included - the aluminum would not wrap very well, the box dimensions were not good enough - I do not believe i I got the angle for the front and rear board correctly. But the biggest issue was that the corner caps would not go over the corners correctly. The wood box got in the way.
     

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  16. Direwolf

    Direwolf New Member

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    4) So I went back to cutting & attaching the 1x boards directly to the aluminum skin in the shape of the aluminum. It's itting up curing tonight.

    tommorrow night I hope to mechanically connect the sideboards and install the luann ceiling.
     

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  17. sawdusty

    sawdusty San Antonio

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    You're doing some great work there. Can't wait to see the final product.
     
  18. Direwolf

    Direwolf New Member

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    Realized yesterday that I had glued the sideboard onto the aluminum before I cut out the holes for the lift lift pockets.
    I used a router last night to create the holes.
    The 1x sideboard is a little thinner than the original material. When I put the rail over the aluminum & wood, there is play . I need to find a material thinner than the luan to fill the space and make the rail fit tight.

    I tried
     

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  19. mdigby

    mdigby New Member

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    Look like great work
     
  20. Direwolf

    Direwolf New Member

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    It' been a week since I posted, but I've been working on her every day/night
    this project on a short timeline is a lot.

    Pictures:
    1) Inside ceiling (popup still upside down). I reinstalled the wiring for the light although I never have an intention to ue (next owner, if there is one, may). You can see the PVC pipe used for the edge support. Painted the 1x side boards & the new ceiling material a tan color to hide some dirt

    2) front ceiling - more luan was removed from the front than other areas. I removed the luan that was discolored/rotted & left the rest.

    3) All new material in the ceiling. I used the loctite PL adhesive & screws into the 1x perimeter structure I glued in earlier and also screwed into the goo luan that was left.

    4) I cut the new ceiling panel in such a way to leave the door suspension rails in tact. I even screwed the ends of the door suspension rails into the perimeter wood pieces.
     

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