2000 viking popup wiring issues

Discussion in 'Wiring' started by thryrik, May 13, 2018.

  1. thryrik

    thryrik New Member

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    just got the camper . when we looked at it the 12v lights worked fine. brought it home and the 12v lights worked. the only issue the seller said was with the CO2 alarm. he said it was bad and so he had bypassed it
    when and got a 30 amp to 120 adapter and got nothing. no 12v no 120v
    i have 12.3 at the battery but cant find any volts in the camper
    but only 0.5 at the push button off switch that activates when the sink is in place.
    on the wires coming out of the power center i have 0v
    when I plug it in I got nothin. I checked the house supply and got 118 and the polarity is fine.
    im guessing I have an open line somewhere but with the quick splices under the camper I done know where.
    does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 2000 viking? or know how to test the power center?
    I would run new wire but I am unsure of all of the connections under the frame

    any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    First off I think you mean you got a 15 amp to 30 amp adapter for your power cord.
    The power cord will go directly into the convertor. Remove the convertor cover and check carefully check for power at the other end of the power cord, if OK move on to breakers. If breaker ok, reset your GFI outlet. You could have a bad outlet or tripped breaker to where you have the adapter plugged into, a bad adapter, a bad cord or a tripped or bad breaker in your convertor. Don't worry about the 12 volt side yet. Get your 110 VAC outlets working in the camper first.
    You can't bypass the CO alarm, but you can disconnect it. If the two wires going to the CO alarm were connected together (bypassed) you would have a direct short.
     
  3. nineoaks2004

    nineoaks2004 Every meal is a picnic and every Day is a holiday

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    Do not forget about the safety switch, usually near or on the sink cabinet. This is to shut off 12V when the PUP is down, so the canvass will not overheat and possibly cause a fire if it goes bad, you will not have 12V to anything in the unit
     
  4. thryrik

    thryrik New Member

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    I went over the main box that the outside power feeds into. at least as far as I can without opening it up.
    I checked all 4 15 amp fuses. they are OK
    I have 2 breakers. they both feel good. good positive feel when you reset them.
    the GFIC seems OK. but i cant test it fully until i have power to the outlet.
    At some point I think I will have to remove the cover and start following traces. (not looking foreword to that)
    the new info is the towing plug arrived (we came home on magnetic haul lights) and when we plugged it in to check the running lights and the interior lights worked! so as far as the 12v system goes im thinking I have a problem somewhere near the battery.
    but that got me wondering if there is not a battery hooked to the system for the system to charge will it not work? is a battery installed a requirement to using site power?
    OH as far as the CO2 sensor goes. there is a red wire that goes thru a 1 amp fuse and connects to a bundle of wires coming out of the power center and a black wire that goes no ware
     
  5. Canadian Campers

    Canadian Campers New Member

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    You do not need a battery to run on shore power at the campsite, but if your 12VDC system is not working and the 120VAC is, then take some plug-in lamps for light.

    I have a similar issue with the 12 volt system in our pop-up, where the 120VAC system works fine, but there is a disconnect between the 120VAC and 12VDC. I haven't figured it out exactly yet, but I will tell you there was an electrical storm, and the trailer was plugged in during the storm. 2 hours later I was in the trailer and had the lights on when, without warning the converter made a buzzing sound and something popped, since then there is no more 12VDC system. I'm glad the whole system didn't fry and the 120VAC still works.

    From your comment above, I am going to put a battery in place and see if I can get it to work with just that. I am wondering how much it would cost to replace the converter unit. If it's too much I think I'll put a simple 120VAC converter to 12VDC on the back of the box and tie it in. They are readily available to order on Amazon, here's an example (https://amzn.to/2sZSVF6) for a fair price, which I assume will be a lot less than the entire converter unit for the trailer.

    Additional: So, I did the battery hook up and tested to find the 12 volt system works fine, so I can tell there is no issue with that system. I will be looking at the converters I recently saw a mention of on Amazon and likely replacing with an appropriate sized unit. Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2018

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