2003 Skamper Sport Roof Repair

[Aircamperace]

We'll I dove into our roof repair this evening, removing the rotted rear board. I have combed through the roof repair threads and still have a few questions.

1) I plan on using outdoor or marine ply but what is recommended to seal it? Spar varnish? Thompsons? etc..

2) What do I use to glue the wood to the fiberglass skin?

3) Does anyone sell new aluminum trim?






http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/aircamperace/slideshow/

Thanks,

AC

 

[Aircamperace]

Update.... 14 days before our camping trip and I think I've got the majority of the rotted wood out. The roof and street side look ok. I ordered 5/8" marine ply that should be here tomorrow.


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[Jeepguy93]

Looking good!! Were your end boards glued to the aluminum skin???

 

[Dubbya]

I used LePage (LocTite) PL Premium construction adhesive. Glue it, clamp it and forget about it. It's cheap, has a decent working time and sticks like poop to a wool blankie. Don't worry too much about over-application either.

You can order the aluminum trim and corner caps from any local dealer or you can buy it through any RV parts dealer on the web, though I'm sure shipping costs would be prohibitive.

The vinyl trim cover can by picked up in 25' rolls for a few bucks on eBay or any number of RV sites on the internet. It's probably the 3/4" stuff you'll need.

Check out http://www.popupparts.com or http://www.canvasreplacements.com. Both come highly recommended around here.

You'll probably find several opinions regarding which roof sealants to use, Dicor, silicone, yada-yada. I recommend Marine Goop. It's cheap, easily outlasts caulking, comes in a caulking tube for a few bucks, it's UV resistant, sticks like crazy, is self-leveling, dries opaque and a little goes a long way. Two years on my roof and it's still in perfect condition.

If you're interested, here's the link to my bedliner roof coating thread: http://www.popupportal.com/index.php?topic=72664

 

[Aircamperace]

Looking good!! Were your end boards glued to the aluminum skin???

Yes they were glued but the roof material is laminate fiberglass, which tore/cracked in a few spots. I'm using a die grinder w/roll lock and DA sander to remove the last bits of wood stuck to it. I would like to replace the skin but will just patch if I can't find a replacement.

I was planning on using 3M super 77 but am thinking I may need something stronger.

I picked up 5/8 Marine ply ($$ owch) and plan on painting it with oil based urethane porch paint.




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[Aircamperace]

Here's a better pic of how I left it Monday night.

Yesterday I picked up and ripped down the sheet of 5/8 marine ply (I think it originally had 1/2" ply plus 1/8" ply). Once I got home I made up the end boards and today I made the splice for the side board.

Does anyone know where to find the laminated fiberglass for the roof?

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[Aircamperace]

Re: 2003 Skamper Sport Side Board Replacement

Cutting a new side board;



and glued in place, what a job!



I did have a little trouble, hopefully the trim will cover it;



Now on to the 100's of little pieces parts!

 

[Dubbya]

You can pick up 4'x8' sheets of FRP (Fiberglass Reinforced Panel) at HomeDepot for around $45 a sheet. If you want bigger sheets, you'll have find a building center to order it for you. Good luck with that!

You might want to look into a roll or two of Filon as you're more likely to find it in different sizes that would allow you to have fewer seams.

 

[Aircamperace]

I decided to just replace the 3 worst boards and was able to reuse the fiberglass skin without damaging it too much, more on that later.

Because the last remaining side was a little soft at the ends, I made longer brackets that extended into solid wood and tied in with the lift struts.

I got ahead of myself and screwed and glued the trim at the bottom of the boards without first installing the rubber gasket into the channel. I will ether need to find a way to get it there or find a different style that is self adhesive. Taking it back apart is not an option.

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[Dubbya]

Great job on the corner brackets!

I used 1" self adhesive automotive weatherstripping but it's really too expensive and a little too thick. 1/2" would be more than adequate. The 1" works well in terms of sealing the roof base against the body but I've noticed that the sideboards tend to bow out somewhat. As the saying goes, more isn't always better.

Here's the thread: http://www.popupportal.com/index.php?topic=73057.msg666162

 

[tcanthonyii]

How hard was it to get that front board out? I'm looking at replacing my front board one of these days as it's completely rotten. The rest of the roof is fine.


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[Dubbya]

I replaced the front board on mine and the most difficult part of the endeavor was removing the glue from inside the bottom trim so I could fit the new board in it and seat it properly.

Really, taking the board out and separating it from the skin isn't too hard with a long thin scraper or putty knife and if the wood disintegrates as mine did, using a drill with a wire wheel gets everything else off.

It takes patience so don't expect to have it done in a minute or two.

 

[Aircamperace]

The roof repair was a success! Thanks everyone.

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[Dubbya]

Great stuff! Looks like a nice little pup right there!

 

[Aircamperace]

I used a grinder with a 80 grit sanding pad to grind the thin layer of wood.


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[Jeepguy93]

Looks good

 

[Jim Keeling]

We'll I dove into our roof repair this evening, removing the rotted rear board. I have combed through the roof repair threads and still have a few questions.

1) I plan on using outdoor or marine ply but what is recommended to seal it? Spar varnish? Thompsons? etc..

2) What do I use to glue the wood to the fiberglass skin?

3) Does anyone sell new aluminum trim?






http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/aircamperace/slideshow/

Thanks,

AC

Suggest the new vinyl,pvc roof. Very strong,no cracks. Heat resistant. Do not seal plywood,glue will not hold if sealed.