2005 Coachmen Clipper Battery power not working

Discussion in 'Wiring' started by mcmlmk, Aug 6, 2011.

  1. mcmlmk

    mcmlmk New Member

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    Hi all, newbie question....when I plug in the 120V plug, the camper automatically has power whether I turn the switch from 12v to 120V. I have no interior lights when I have no 120V plugged in. The battery is brand new and all charged up, at the 120v and 12v switch, I have power there from the battery. Could it be the converter? I have a picture of my converter, I noticed a red light on when next to the top fuse I have it plugged into 120V, what would be causing this? 50% of the time I will be camping with electric hookup, the other 50% just on battery, so try to get that working.

    I'm also working on adding a 12V battery CD player too, but working on the other issue first!

    Thanks for any and all replies!
    Mike
     
  2. Erwin

    Erwin New Member

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    Can't see the picture of the converter but it sounds like the fuse with the red light may be blown. Check/replace it, see what happens.
     
  3. Unstable_Tripod

    Unstable_Tripod Well, there's your problem!

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    I can't see the picture either.

    Do the lights work on 12v when you turn the switch on the converter to 12v? If not, look for a blown fuse or loose connection somewhere in the system. There are fuses on the converter and in-line from the battery. Also, be sure the battery is connected properly. The black wire is positive and the white one is negative.
     
  4. mcmlmk

    mcmlmk New Member

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    The fuse is fixed, I thought I had checked them all before, but it was bad. To answer your question, if I do not have it plugged into the 120V, and I flip the switch at 12V to on, the lights do not come on. I have checked the battery wiring to be sure it's correct. When I check the battery wires at the switch, I have voltage there with a voltmeter, which leads me to believe I'm at least getting power there. With the next place to test be the converter? Again, sorry for the newbie question and I greatly appreciate your responses.
     
  5. Erwin

    Erwin New Member

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    Since we can't see the picture of your converter, tell us what make/model it is.
    In general the converter would have at least 3 wires for the DC wiring coming out it. Possibly red/white/blue
    red should have 12 v from the battery. This wire may be a heavier guage (thicker) than the others
    white is ground to battery or frame. Make sure the battery negative post is also grounded to the frame.
    blue would be used to provide power to your devices (ceiling lights, water pump, furnace etc)
    There may be other wires coming out in various colors depending how many 12v circuits the converter has.
    When you say "I flip the switch at 12V to on" , what switch are you referring to? I would think a pup of that year would have an auto switchover from battery to converter.
     
  6. mcmlmk

    mcmlmk New Member

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    I think I've figured out the posting of pictures issue, sorry about that. Here is a picture of the converter. Also one of the area outside the camper where I turn on the propane gas and power switches. It also has two switches there for 120V and 12V. There is where I "flip the switch at 12V on" that I am referring to. Does that help? I was assuming that for me to have 12V power for interior lights, I would have to turn that switch on. Also assuming to have 120V power when plugged in, I would have to flip that switch. However once I plug 120V power in, I have power everywhere, no matter what those switches are turned to (ie 12V on or 120V on or both off).

    I did double check all my fuses. When the battery is hooked up, my voltmeter shows power at the panel area where the propane and 120V and 12V switches are. How would I check at the converter? Is the voltmeter the correct tool to be testing all of this? Many thanks for your replies, just a rookie trying to learn all of this!

    http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa148/mcconahym/Pop%20Up/IMG_0498.jpg
    http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa148/mcconahym/Pop%20Up/IMG_0501.jpg
     
  7. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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  8. Erwin

    Erwin New Member

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    Those are your refridgerator controls. You have a 3 way fridge.120v for when you are connected to shore power (campground power pole), Propane if you have no access to shore power and 12v you can use while towing (if your TV is wired to provide 12v to the camper battery). Don't use 12v while camped, it will kill the battery in a matter of hours.
    You have a WFCO converter. I think 12 amp output. It is an autoswitching unit meaning you don't have to flip any switches to operate your 12v devices either on or off of shore power
    The light next to the fuse indicates it (the fuse) is blown. Replace it even if it looks good. If it blows again you will need to find out why/where it is shorting to ground.
     
  9. mcmlmk

    mcmlmk New Member

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    Haha, I hope I gave you guys a good laugh with the rookie mistake....I had no idea that was only for the fridge! Oops. Back to the drawing board, see if I can figure this out. I'm camping this weekend at Frontiertown in Maryland, I'll have shore power so no immediate rush, just hoping to get it all figure out and understand the workings of this camper. Thanks again for all your replies!
     
  10. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    That battery circuit will charge the battery on shore power.
    Since batteries naturally discharge, this helps keeps 'em topped off while camping with shore power.

    You may want to consider disconnecting the battery when not camping, the very small 'parasite' load from the propane/CO detector will eventually drain the battery.

    You might consider topping the battery off ever month or so, before and after camping, etc.

    Happy camping.
     
  11. Bill McCall

    Bill McCall New Member

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    I thought I'd piggy back on this thread rather than starting a new one. We just bought a used 2005 clipper. When we brought it home, the DC lights in the roof and fan worked. When we hooked up the AC they got brighter. We had a water leak where I couldn't get to it, so I took it to a dealer. When we got it back the water is fine, but the ceiling lights and fan dont' work. All fuses are ok. The battery is charged. The water pump works and it is DC, so I assume the inverter is working. I think the CO detector is DC powered and it has a test button that works fine. When I move the sink to the stow position it reveals a switch that I suspect is the problem, but I can't get to it to try and bypass it. Does anyone know if that kills power to the roof and if the switch is wired to a terminal block somewhere?
     
  12. neighbormike

    neighbormike Well-Known Member

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    Starting your own thread would probably help you more than reviving an 8 year old thread.... that said, your galley kill switch is the first place I would check. Why can't you get to it? Pictures??
     

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