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Discussion in 'Camper Restoration Projects' started by Kbooth, Aug 28, 2018.
quick walk thru vid
so, here is where I am at. I used contact after getting everything that was water damaged down, I left the half sheet of non damaged(and really well attached) in place. I decided to lay another layer of Blue dow foam (sorry no pics of that) I attached the foam with contact cement to the old foam. Next I installed the Luan (spray adhesive contact cement again), then I reinstalled the exterior rails (some slight modification was needed since I basically lowered the ceiling by 3/4") the installed the cross members. the cross members really hold this contraption together. I still need to cut the AC hole, and reinstall the AC. After installing the 12v lights, I cant seem to get the electricity to energize. yay another gremlin to kill. next, I have to reinstall the canvas, and paint the exterior of the roof with a sealant to make sure I don't get any water intrusion again.
Wow, wanna come do mine? You're doing a great job - can't wait to see the finished product! What are you going to cover the luan with, or are you going to paint it? I'm really dreading this job over the winter. I kept looking at the ceiling while we were camping this weekend, trying to rationalize that it really wasn't that bad and didn't need to be done this year.
The wife had a picture of the foam installed so I thought I would share that. I finally got to the roof coating last night, and found where the water was coming in. the Pictures are of the fiberglass filon roofing. I really don't like this product. It breaks my heart that the product actually cracked and let water in. The Filon has also released from the foam, and has bubbled in some spots. I really don't know what I will do for a long term solution, but and aluminum frame work with solid alum plate sure looks like something I would like. All I have left is to cut the final hole for the AC and reinstall the AC. There is a few electrical gremlins that I need to work out, and a busted water pipe, but I'm getting pretty close to the Make it pretty stage. the wife wants to do a full on re decoration, including painting the cabinets, and new fabric in the cushions. that is going to have to wait till it is not 95 degrees and 90% humidity.
What great work! thanks for the photos and the videos.
Grizzly Grip that top and the Filon will never leak again. It isn't cheap, I paid about $240 to put 2 coats on my 2008 Niagara, but man does it put a nice flexible shell on you roof.
Enjoy that trailer!
One thing I found when replacing the AC gasket is to also replace the high density foam block toward the back of the AC. This helps to support the rear of the AC and keep it level so that the front of the AC does not raise up and create a gap in the gasket at the front of the AC.
We just bought an '07 Niagara. Is there a specific size gasket or are these all pretty much the same. I've seen 14" gaskets on amazon. Is there a kit that includes the HD foam block and the gasket together? TIA
Thanks for all the pictures and info--we just bought an '07 Niagara and need to do similar repairs on roof and ceiling. For the areas where water leaked, do you remove the foam insulation and replace, or let it dry out and then recover with new luan?
That depends, is your insulation soaked? If so it will likely never completely dry out. When I purchased my 2008 Niagara the roof had leaked and water had run down the seam in the foam ruining the Luan in the middle of the roof. But because I live in SoCal and we had not had that much rain the damage was limited and the insulation never got soaked. the roof leaked around 2015-16 I bought it in March 2016 and resealed the roof immediately but just got around to fixing the ceiling this month, May 2019, and the areas of bad plywood were still damp, not wet but cool to the touch and rotten. The vinyl keeps the moisture trapped in the wood.
By is the insulation soaked, he means the board insulation that is in the ceiling, not the foam gasket. and to answer you question all the gaskets are 14", and typically they come with the foam rear support for the ac. If you have an "07, I would suggest looking at the front and back of the roof where the fiberglass makes the bend. that is where my water intrusion happened. there were tiny cracks all over the bends.
I have been working on the camper again, and we are painting the ceiling (finally) and the cabinets. the Wife is recovering the cushions to a more hippy modern fabric print.
Yeah, I saw your close-ups of the bend and ours looks very similar with the micro-cracks. We used "Big Stretch" caulking from Lowes and pushed it into all the tiny cracks we could find. We also had 2 spots that appear to be hail dents and caulked those. Unfortunately, the water damage is already in the ceiling--I can see the bubbling and it's soft in a couple areas so that will be our next step.
Kitrina, I ended up painting the top with an elastro-metric paint from lowes, and it sealed the cracks, and mate the top white again. I hope to post some pics of the finished paint, and interior renovation this weekend, along with some other modifications that I have found really helpful.
colemanpopupparts.com has an AC gasket kit that includes the foam block for the rear of the AC.
Kbooth, I just tore into my ceiling this afternoon and I know what you mean about there being no adhesion where the moisture is! I peeled back all the plywood I could which was super-easy, but where it is dry, the plywood is very well adhered. My question would be--how do you get all that off? Or can you leave it on, and if you do, how do you evenly cover over it all with the "seams" where the layer of good plywood is still stuck on there? Also...regarding the cross-beams: do you feel it's really important to remove the small amount of water-damaged luan that's under there or would it be okay to leave it? Really don't have the tools, time, or strength to take on removing those ceiling rails...
how did you reattach our pop out tents? my rails are both out and looks like you cant put the tent in before installing the rails due to the screws being behind the tent popout rails?
I took out the metal cross brakes down, two bolt on either side. that is also where the luan seams are. makes a great way to hide the repair seams. I wasn't to concerned about getting all the old plywood down, because it will cover, but I wanted to get all of the wet stuff down, because I don't think it would ever dry.
I put the rails back in first with screw and not pop rivets, then pushed the splines back into the top rails.
Did the elastro-metric paint work well?
Thanks in advance.
it has worked.