2007 Palomino Yearling wiring issues

Discussion in 'Wiring' started by Wacholocko, Sep 21, 2020.

  1. Wacholocko

    Wacholocko New Member

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    Hi All,

    First time poster. Self-confessed electrical novice, but I do pride myself on being able to apply Google/YouTube teachings into practical outcomes. That is why I am struggling to figure out the wiring issues in a second hand 2007 Palimino Yearling we picked up a couple weeks ago.

    From what I can tell the camper has the following:
    1. 2 x deep cycle batteries
    [​IMG][​IMG]
    2. 3-way fridge
    [​IMG]
    3. 12v water pump and interior lights
    4. 240v electrical power points
    5. 1 x power converter
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    All fuses have been checked and several were replaced.

    The camper come with two deep cycle batteries and a plethora of coloured wires that were not connected. My first step was to see whether the electrical system was working at all, so I connected to a shore line which showed 240v was coming through and powering the 3-way fridge. According to the converter, this should then be converted into 12v current to power all internal appliances. This was not the case.

    I have tried playing around with a couple of different settings and wires, but ultimately I am finding it hard to identify which wire goes where (because there are multiple of each colours). The converter manual seems to indicate that they are all positive (besides White), yet when I apply it to the negative only then does the converter produce an audible alarm which (from what I understand) means the system is overloaded. I assume then that the system must be functioning to some degree, and that it may just be the lights/pump itself that isn't working.

    Any ideas on how I get this functioning? Do I have to have both batteries connected in order for them to not only charge (obviously) but also ensure the circuit hasn't been broken?

    For the wires within the battery box, there are:
    1 x red
    2 x yellow
    2 x blue

    Any advice is appreciated. I'd love to be able to try figure this out myself before getting an electrician around who will solve it in less than 5 minutes.

    Cheers
     
  2. nineoaks2004

    nineoaks2004 Every meal is a picnic and every Day is a holiday

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    I doubt that your unit is set up for 220 v. If it is pushing 220 you can destroy all the appliances etc. You cannot believe everything you see on blue tube
     
  3. tfischer

    tfischer A bad day camping beats a good day at the office

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    His converter is clearly labeled 240VAC, as is the marker on the fridge control. He's obviously in a country where that is the standard.
     
  4. tfischer

    tfischer A bad day camping beats a good day at the office

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    I can't see enough of the wire situation from your converter to give clear advice. Generally all the non-white wires from the converter are +12V, and the red one goes to the battery circuit, while the others feed branch circuits.

    Unless things are different in your country, your unit seems to have had heavy modifications. The battery (single) typically goes on the tongue. And typically the wire colors at the battery are black (positive) and white(negative). It looks like yours has been rewired to be red(+) and black(-) which is far more standard for automotive and DC wiring. But you'll need to verify that. The easiest place to look would be by the converter and interior battery... that red wire out of the converter should go to the battery and probably also to the trailer connector for +12V from the TV... the white one should tie into all neutrals and also go to the - on the batteries.
     
  5. Wacholocko

    Wacholocko New Member

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    Converter manual says it is specifically designed for 3 way conversion of 240v AC to 12v DC. I am in AUS - we don't use 110v here.
     
  6. Wacholocko

    Wacholocko New Member

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    Yes, I think this has been modified in the past to mirror an automotive battery setup. I imagine it made it easier for that owner, but not for me!

    So in reality, if I am putting all available wires on the + terminal, I should be getting a result from the 12v appliances, correct? Can I test the 12v devices directly - at the fuse for each circuit potentially? Or should I take a light apart and test electricity with a multimeter there?
     

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