2008 Fleetwood Avalon Filon Roof Rebuild

Discussion in 'Roof/Floor Repair & Maintenance' started by s21538, Nov 7, 2015.

  1. Canoeman

    Canoeman New Member

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    Somerset is manufacturing the Fleetwood line of pop ups check with them if the roof is the same as yours
    this time with aluminum roofs.
    I'm buying one for my evolution 3 pop-up.


    http://www.somersetrv.com/campers/
     
  2. William Freeman

    William Freeman Active Member

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    Yep, old thread, but the closest that I could find to my problem/camper.

    Wow, I had such high hopes for this thread - actually showing the completed project. But like sooo many others (I am on quite a few forums, but old/new to this one), it is dropped like a rock! That bugs the crap out of me! And this was actually the same project/camper (mine is an Arcadia though) that I am getting ready to do.

    Any updates - in case the OP is still on the forum?

    I am considering (once the ceiling panel is replaced) wrapping Eternabond through the A/C opening. That way (in theory), if there is a gasket leak, the water will not enter between the layers of the opening. Also planning on caulking everything else that I can find, including the side rails and end caps.
     
  3. Mamie

    Mamie Active Member

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    Caulk and duct tape - can't live without them.
     
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  4. jnc

    jnc Welcome from New Hampshire

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    The OP has not been seen in over a year.
     
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  5. William Freeman

    William Freeman Active Member

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    Yeah, that happens too many times in ALL forums. The op asks a question and gets an answer, then disappears, or just never follows up on the outcome. I ALWAYS do a final post - whether I sell the project or just to tell anytime whay I did to rectify the problem - it's just common courtesy.

    Yeah, I'm thinking I'll pull the a/c, cover the hole and go inside to strip the luan and Styrofoam (if necessary). Once the inside is done, I'll cover the a/c opening with Eternabond and reinstall the a/c with a new gasket. I'll definitely caulk the top side of the rails, but will consider caulking the underside also and maybe even eternabond the top.
     
  6. kevinpf

    kevinpf Member

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    As the owner of a used 2008 Niagara that had some roof damage due to poor maintenance, I feel the pain. So many of these posts critical to the community just end.
    My issue is smaller as the water damaged areas of the front ceiling and then ran down to a small area near the shower. The luan has bubbled in areas but more than 90% of my roof is solid.
    My issue is how to fix the areas that are damaged without ripping out the whole thing.

    Good luck on the project.
     
  7. sblanck

    sblanck Member

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    I have a Williamsburg. My brother owned it originally and his roof cracked and had water damage. The dealership just put a rhino lining over the existing roof so a 2x4 area in the rear is a soft spot. Now its starting to delaminate inside. You said you had 6 guys to come help you move your roof. With that information I will definitely plan on asking for help when I redo mine.
     
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  8. William Freeman

    William Freeman Active Member

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    Mine is about the same - I'd say 85-90% solid with about a 3sqft area around the a/c opening that needs the luan replaced. Maybe between us two we can close this thread with our repairs since the OP didn't!

    My plan is:
    1) Remove the a/c,
    2) Remove the roof brace(s),
    3) Tear out the delaminated luan,
    4) Cut into the good luan to make a square repair section,
    5) Glue in a patch, hold tight to roof with plywood and 2x4s,
    6) Fill/sand the seams and
    7) Cover the whole roof with either contact paper or a vinyl wrap.
    8) Seal the a/c opening from the roof, through the opening and onto the ceiling with 4" Eternabond tape to keep water from infiltrating between the roof/ceiling layers again
    9) Apply lap sealant to the top side seam of the side rails
    10) Caulk the corner caps and edge mouldings
    11) Caulk the rest of the camper while I'm at it
    12) Replace the marker and tail lights with LED versions

    As of today, all I have done is:
    1) Scuff and paint the frame, tongue, stabilizers and step.
    2) Pressure washed the body
    3) Ordered lights, lap sealant, caulk, Eternabond, a/c seal
     
  9. William Freeman

    William Freeman Active Member

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    Maybe 7 guys with that Rhino lining on it! Good luck with your project
     
  10. kevinpf

    kevinpf Member

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    I am thinking along a similar line. Cut out the damaged areas 1-2" larger than the damage, replace with luan plywood patch glued in place with PL Premium, and then go to JoAnn's and find contact paper as close as I can get to the original.
    Because I have Grizzly Griped my roof and caulked every seam within a mile of the roof my leak has been dealt with and I have been dry for a year.

    I will post some before pictures as soo as I open it up in a couple of days
     
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  11. William Freeman

    William Freeman Active Member

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    That's the stuff I kept reading about! Now I don't have to go back and look for it. Thanks. I think we have a JoAnn's fairly close to us too - might have to do the same. Let me know if you find something before I do.

    I was considering the Grizzly Grip since that seems to be the favored one (economical one). The P.O. said he rolled on Kool Seal twice while he had it. The roof looks pretty good without any cracks that I can see. I will have to make a decision on that pretty soon I guess!

    I jumped the gun a couple of posts back. I said I had already ordered the lights - they were in my eBay cart, but I forgot to order them - I saw that today. Today I pulled the lenses off and saw what appeared to be either funny looking Phillips screws or rivets holding the tail lights on. So if they are rivets, how do you get behind the panel to put the washer on the back of the rivet (or do you even use the washer), or do you just caulk those holes and screw the new lights on? I didn't check the marker lights to see what holds them on.
     
  12. mstrbill

    mstrbill Active Member

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    If there any way to get a picture showing the way the materials are layered in the roof, it would be helpful to us.
     
  13. mstrbill

    mstrbill Active Member

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    The Filon roof requires no maintenance, the only place water can get in is from the AC seal. Where did you find yours was leaking?
     
  14. kevinpf

    kevinpf Member

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    The issue began when we looked at the trailer before buying it and I saw a stain on the top of the front bed canvas, PO said he had no idea what it was, right. I noticed several spots on the ceiling where it looked like it was bubbling so I knew I was going to have an issue.
    When we got it home the front over head light had water in it and when I pierced one of the blisters water came out. We live in Socal and it was very hot at the time so we pierced all of the blisters, took all of the lights out of the ceiling, and covered the trailer.
    When we examined the roof closely there appeared to be cracks and the caulk at the edges (along the roof track) was failing.
    Could not find sufficient evidence that the Filon roofs were "maintenance free" even after posting several queries on this forum so I errored on the side of caution and purchased $200 worth of grizzly grip. and caulked every seam with Sikaflex. Within 10 days everything dried up, no more blisters, no more water, and it has been good for 14 months.
    Now it is time to repair the damage.
    Did I need the Grizzly Grip? Don't know, but I do know my roof is sealed tighter than a snare drum.
     
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  15. kevinpf

    kevinpf Member

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    I will send some once I tear into it but it will be a bit as I have a trip to the mountains planned for 6-1 thru 6-4. once I come back I will tear into it and post pics.
     
  16. William Freeman

    William Freeman Active Member

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    We have been having thunder showers almost daily since before I brought my Arcadia home. I WAS able to get outside one afternoon long enough to caulk (Dicor) both sides of the rails, corner mouldings and caps, trim that covers the diamond plate in the front, and around/under anything that penetrated the skin. Hopefully that will fix (or prevent) any leaks that might be happening.

    I popped it up later that afternoon to do some research and determine the best course of action for cleaning and repairs. I wrote down model numbers of appliances, furnace, water heater, converter and LPG detector so that I could download manuals for everything (since it didn't come with ANY). I pulled the A/C filter plate off and re taped the gap between the roof unit and ceiling plate, then I plugged it up to check its operation. I also checked the fridge, lights and radio - everything seemed to work fine, although the fridge took a while to cool down. I started to check the gas appliances and discovered an LP leak somewhere around the regulator when I opened the valve - turned it back off. I will check that out tomorrow while I'm off. The valance curtains are sagging badly, so we are either going to have to order new ones or try to install new elastic in the old ones - they look pretty bad. The curtains could use a washing, but I doubt that is a good idea with the vinyl backing. The whole inside will need a good cleaning. I also need to hook water up to it to check for leaks, plus make sure the toilet, sink, water heater and pump all work.

    If the weather holds out tomorrow, I am planning on scrubbing the whole camper (outside) and buffing it. There are a few areas that I need to remove Dicor from (where I messed it up), and a few places that the P.O. used latex (I think) caulk on and had it wiped all over (much worse than mine was, lol). I need to install screen on the fridge, water heater and furnace - I've had to kill wasps already! Once we get all of that done, the camper will be ready to use - maybe a couple of times before we tear into it!

    One question though. Do you think I should go ahead and replace the A/C gasket before I work on the ceiling or just hold out until then? Once it is installed can it be re used or will I have to buy another one?
     
  17. kevinpf

    kevinpf Member

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    Folks, Sorry for the silence since June. I am an IT consultant and have been on a project in Ohio since June 10th so have not had time to address the roof issue.
    I am done with that project and will be local for awhile so my son and I expect to tear into it in the next week or so. I will post photos when I do.
     
  18. kevinpf

    kevinpf Member

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    OK, I finally got time to do the work on the ceiling, sorry for the delay.
    Fortunately my roof was not nearly as bad as the original poster.
    so as I said last July when I originally described my situation to that point I have resolved the leaks and all that has been left to do is repair the damage.
    I went to Home Depot and purchased 2.7mm utility plywood and a tube of "LOCTITE Power Grab White Interior Multi-Purpose Construction Adhesive".

    When I opened the trailer I used a pencil to outline the blistered areas on the ceiling and removed the overhead lights.
    Then I used a box cutter to open up the ceiling and tried to cut the bad plywood back until I reached the good solid wood that was well adhered to the foam.
    As has ben described in another post the structure/layers are;
    1} Filon (some years used aluminum or other material but the layering is the same)
    2) 1" HD foam
    3) 1/16" Plywood (Luan)
    4) Vinyl wall paper or ?

    The sides and ends are 1/4 or 3/8'' plywood, at least they were on my 92 Arcadia. But if you ends or sides are wet/rotten you will have to completely rebuild so the roof will need to come off and you will need to have lots of time (I have heard ~40 hours) and an enclosed place to work.

    I am attaching photos and you will see what it is looking like before I cut and once I expose the foam,
    and finally how I attached the plywood.

    Just a couple of notes:
    When I cut the first section and saw the foam, there is a seam that runs the length of the roof (gap in the foam) that seems to channel any water that gets into the roof. This allows the water to migrate throughout the ceiling. I was fortunate because I bought it from the PO before to much water had gotten in and quickly sealed everything. Also I live in SoCal and we had been in a drought so the trailer had been exposed to very little rain and the climate is dry.
    20190428_181503-1.jpg
    Blistering
    20190428_181408-1.jpg
    After Bad Plywood removed. The discoloration is the old glue
    20190428_181332-1.jpg
    Patched area
    20190428_181310-1.jpg
    Plywood I used
     
  19. William Freeman

    William Freeman Active Member

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    Thanks for the update. What's your plan for replacing the vinyl?

    As far as my camper is concerned, I removed the A/C, wrapped the opening with Eternabond, re installed the aluminum angle and installed Eternabond around the edges of that, then re installed the A/C with a new gasket and silicone. So far I haven't had any water intruding back into the camper. We camped this weekend and had a fairly heavy rain one day but not leaks. I think the leak is fixed, so sooner or later I will fix the damage inside. Mine is not that big of an eye sore, but DOES bug me a little.
     
  20. kevinpf

    kevinpf Member

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    Home Depot has a textured vinyl wall paper that is very close to the original pattern on the ceiling. I will use 3M 77 spray adhesive and cover everything edge to edge so that it is consistent. It will add a second layer of vinyl in some areas but not a big deal.
    This should finally relieve the nagging feeling of this issue as we have been staring at it for 2 years
     

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