2008 Fleetwood Evolution Filon Roof Repair

Discussion in 'Roof/Floor Repair & Maintenance' started by operationsguyseattle, Aug 14, 2021.

  1. operationsguyseattle

    operationsguyseattle New Member Silver Supporting Member

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    My trailer has the dreaded/infamous filon roof issue. We had a series of small leaks coming through the rear light and the unused A/C mount holes. The volume of the leaks was really small - 1/2 dozen drops of water after a night of rain. It did kill the light with corrosion but there is no mold. Mostly it resulted in some discoloration on the roof and canvas. I poked around a fair bit looking for rot but the outer and inner roof surfaces felt and looked pretty solid. Fingers crossed.

    My trailer lives outside but under a waterproof cover so the rain exposure was fairly minimal. As much as it rains here in a year - we do not have frequent summer rains.

    Here are some images of what i have prior to the repair. (that's what seattle grass looks like in the summer.)

    20210801_101541.jpg

    Here are the cracks. They cover most of the roof. Maybe a bit more on the bends at the ends.
    20210731_182518.jpg

    One ding on the back vertical section.
    DSC02823.jpg

    I thought it was leaking here so i fixed it with eternabond and a sticker.

    20210731_182412.jpg

    another ding on the top that i also thought might be leaking - so eternabond here too.
    DSC02820.jpg

    more cracks.
    20210731_182416.jpg

    DSC02822.jpg
    Fix is underway.
     
  2. rbtharb625

    rbtharb625 New Member

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    I have a 2011 Palomino P2100 and have the same problem with my roof. Anyone know of a good way to seal it? I read Sealkrete mixed with some paint?
     
  3. Rottiegirl

    Rottiegirl Member

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    That’s what I did. It doesn’t have any cracks though. But it does bead up the rain nicely now.
     
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  4. operationsguyseattle

    operationsguyseattle New Member Silver Supporting Member

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    My solution was to use the Crazy Seal product. I looked around at a couple of other options and exchanged some emails with them.

    I was on the fence about rebuilding the whole roof with something like this or this. We also poked around some other options but it was really hard to locate material in Seattle that would give me a seamless surface on top. Crazy Seal was fairly well reviewed for this sort of RV roof application. A number of people suggested some commercial roof products and my brother suggested Line-X. All of them seemed plausible but it was hard to find any that I wouldn't have to research or haul the trailer somewhere to have done.

    Most of all - I wanted to get it sealed up before Fall. A complete rebuild of the roof with aluminum or Filon would likely be a better long term solution but it's a 14 year old trailer and it would have taken many, many evenings and weekends. And 10 trips to Home Depot.

    We ordered from the Crazy Seal site. I got two gallons of Crazy Seal. Our application has no substantial damage nor any penetrations so we didn't get caulk or repair tape. After reading about the cleaning requirements, I was comfortable preparing the surface on my own. I spent ~$350 on material and shipping.

    Here's my roof with the solar pulled off and one of the edge channels removed. I will write something up separately about why I do not recommend using the edge channels for anything over 30 lbs or 8" tall.
    dirt from solar.jpg

    More of the dirt i need to clean up.
    edge with dirt.jpg

    For cleaning - I used a diluted Simple Green solution for the first pass with a car washing brush. The sticker residue came off with citrus degreaser and a stiff brush. That is also helpful for any tar, hard to get bugs or other goo. I will go over anything that still looks sticky with rubbing alcohol. Then I re-washed the whole roof after that with more dilute Simple Green. Two full rinses after that. It looked and felt pretty clean.
     
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  5. rbtharb625

    rbtharb625 New Member

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  6. rbtharb625

    rbtharb625 New Member

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    I don’t think I’m completely rebuilding mine either unless when I tear into it it’s really bad. I don’t think it is. I have one corner in the back that whisked up water about 7 inches out and halfway up the particle board. Still seems solid. I also have some bublbles on the ceiling inside under wallpaper or whatever it is. I just bought the camper and left it uncovered to see if I had leaks.
     
  7. Adam H

    Adam H Active Member

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    I used SealKrete with about 25% exterior latex with excellent results. It will take care of the micro fractures but not a puncture. After that, I coat my roof yearly with 100% Sealkrete which is probably overkill. Sealkrete will never peel like most of the thick coatings that sit on top. I also had a hole (Circled) I sealed with Epoxy. Cant even see it after I coated the roof.
    IMG_36812.jpg
     
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  8. Adam H

    Adam H Active Member

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    Bad picture but you can see the yellowing Filon roof prior to coating it.
    IMG_1209.JPG
     
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  9. rbtharb625

    rbtharb625 New Member

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    Mine cracks are hairline also. They are so small they are hard to see. I like your idea of the sealkrete for now. I don’t think it’s bad enough to use something heavier. I’m going to strip her all down, put new butyl tape and Proflex RV on all the trim pieces then coat her with sealkrete mixed with paint.
     
  10. rbtharb625

    rbtharb625 New Member

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    Mine is yellow also.
     
  11. rbtharb625

    rbtharb625 New Member

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    That a great idea also! Kind of expensive though and I don’t think mine is bad enough just yet to use that. I will definitely keep it in mind though. Thanks!
     
  12. Adam H

    Adam H Active Member

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    If I were to add paint again, I would use gloss latex instead of semi gloss.
    I did scrub the roof thoroughly with TSP prior to knock the sheen off.
    Sealkrete is UV resistant and a gallon will last you years.
     
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  13. rbtharb625

    rbtharb625 New Member

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    Great! I have scrubbed it twice with magic eraser and dawn. I have some TSP I’ll scrub it again with that. I haven’t noticed any leaks when I wash it just when it sits out in the rain. That’s why I think what leaks I do have at are not that bad.
     
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  14. rbtharb625

    rbtharb625 New Member

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    I just received a roll of Dicor butyl tape in the mail. I’m not happy with it at all. I have a roll of the Xfasten brand and it seems a lot better to me. What kind did you use and what type of caulking? I ordered Dicor lap sealant and RV proflex. Should I use anything else to seal her up?
     
  15. operationsguyseattle

    operationsguyseattle New Member Silver Supporting Member

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    Here is the start of the project. The Crazy Seal showed up pretty well packed in two plastic paint cans. I used a standard full size roller and a 4" one for the ends. The Crazy Seal has an impressively low odor. I did find it to have a lot of "fling" from the roller. Be sure to mask and cover nearby items well. We used mineral spirits for clean up as needed. I did not clean the rollers in between coats, I stuck it in the freezer in a ziploc.

    When laying it down, The mfg recommends a heavy application, enough to be pushing it without the roller spinning. (like a squeegee maybe) I did not find this to be easy to control or to look very consistent. My approach was to use a higher nap roller and apply more like a heavy paint/primer.

    ladder.jpg

    This is the grey color from CS during application. It is quite a bit lighter in color. My guess is that it was in the high 70's when I applied the first coat. The roof was hot enough to make it uncomfortable for bare feet. The lighter color should reduce some of the heat load even if I don't love it as much as the original color.

    I was worried about the application on the vertical ends of the roof. Some concern about how it would adhere and perform and maybe more about how it would look. Since this is a popup - you can see the roof quite frequently. I didn't want it to look like a hack job with runs or dry spots. This is where I used the smaller roller and took my time to not make a mess on the adjacent surfaces.
    DSC02828.jpg

    Here is the ding on the rear of the vertical section that I needed to cover. I do not think it was contributing to the leak when looked at in context to the hundreds of small cracks all over the top. One of my things I needed from this solution was to fix this and one other ding in the roof.

    Masking was not anything special, I used regular masking tape. You do need to remove it after a few minutes of curing or it will damage the finish. I had to employ my wife to peel off the tape as I went along. It would be pretty hard to do this solo given the speed you roll it out at and the rate of cure.
    ding2pre.jpg

    Here is the roof with one layer of Crazy Seal. The finish adds some lumpiness to the surface due to some fiber that it has. I was a little concerned about this but think that it finished out well.
    DSC02829.jpg

    I started out dunking the roller and ended up pouring the material onto the roof. I rolled it out pretty carefully trying to keep the finish even looking.
    DSC02825.jpg

    Pulling the tape off takes some focus. The mfg recommends that you put it on in 3' pieces so it peels off in manageable lengths. We learned the hard way that this is likely a good idea. You have to pull it off pretty quickly to keep in front of the cure and it proved to be hard to keep long pieces of it from making a mess as it fluttered around in the wind.
    DSC02831.jpg

    Here it is mostly done. I had enough material to do 3 coats. You need to redo the masking in between each layer if that's not obvious.
    done 2.jpg done 3.jpg

    All in all - I'm pretty happy with the appearance of the finished product. It took about an hour to do each coat once I had all of the tools out. It is recommended that you dry it for 24 hours in-between coats which I did.

    The painted finish feels softer than the Filon. I did reroute my solar wires to keep them from rubbing on the roof while driving. We don't put anything else on the roof and will now be more careful when walking on it.

    Now for the true test of this fix - time.
     

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  16. Adam H

    Adam H Active Member

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    For a small puncture, I used epoxy
    I also had a larger puncture (same storm) that required fiberglass repair
    For calking, I use Sikaflex.
     
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