2009 Aliner Classic not running on battery

Discussion in 'A-Frame PopUps' started by KA1J, May 7, 2019.

  1. KA1J

    KA1J New Member

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    Hi,

    I am a first-time popup owner and Just bought a 2009 Aliner Classic today. The retired owner had it for two years and her husband passed and she couldn't answer many details, he ran the ship. It was in well-kept shape and the price was low enough I don't mind doing whatever repairs are needed. It's a 4 hour drive & I will be picking it up in four days, need to get the temp plates first. I have a lot of questions but I'll try to ask one-two at a time, so with luck, I'll hopefully be able to work on it right away when I get it home.

    The owner's husband replaced the converter with a WFCO WF-8725-P. It looks like it is in place properly and no obvious signs of the work not being completed. The owner always used it when connected to 120V, they never ran off the battery. Though the battery is supposed to be new, nothing runs from the battery. When connected to 120V, 12V things work. Not having experience with a camper

    I thought there might be a switch to flip when switching between battery and shore 120? From my reading, it appears such a switch is not standard on Aliner Classics. If that's the case, how does one switch between battery power and shore power to run the 12V items?

    Is there another inverter on board to convert from battery to 120V or is 120 only available when connected to shore power?

    Although new, it is possible the battery is dead, maybe drained over the winter and damaged by freezing temps. I didn't have a voltmeter with me to test it. I couldn't test the fuse in-line from the battery but it did not appear blown. All of the fuses attached to the converter also appear to be in good shape.

    Any suggestions on why 12V isn't working when shore power is removed?

    Any suggestions, thoughts are much appreciated.

    Gary
     
  2. joet

    joet Well-Known Member

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    Take a volt meter and check the battery. Check the fuse at the fuse at the battery. Is the battery still hooked up? It should have been disconnected. The propane/Co detector will drain a battery
     
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  3. BikeNFish

    BikeNFish Well-Known Member

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    joet has you on the right track. Start with the battery and work back from there.
     
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  4. jmkay1

    jmkay1 2004 Fleetwood/Coleman Utah

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    Here is my theory as it was the same on my popup when I bought it. The prior owner never used the battery so essentially just left it there unused, uncharged and probably didn’t bother disconnecting it from the camper. It was in so many ways a forgotten worthless item to them and therefore dead as a door nail. If you bring your own battery that you know is fully charged and good you could at least eliminate that as being your problem. Then the next worry is to ensure you hook it up correctly and not accidentally reverse the polarity. Next is to check all your fuses to see if there is one blown. Hopefully it’s that simple for you. Good luck with your new to you camper and get to camping.
     
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  5. Shaman1

    Shaman1 Well-Known Member

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    1. Joet is right regarding the 12v side
    2. Generally, you have a converter to change 120 to 12v. It will only work on shore power.
     
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  6. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    The battery, having been left connected, is pooched so plan on buying a new one - parasitic draw from the LP/CO detector alone will kill any battery over the course of a few weeks. There's no need to switch manually between 120 vac shore power and 12 vdc from the battery - plug the trailer into shore power and it will automatically power the trailer's 120 vac system, including the converter. Remove shore power and 12 vdc from the battery will automatically be fed to the trailer's 12 vdc system. Obviously if the battery is dead the trailer's 12 vdc system will be dead as well. When there is no shore power none of the 120 vac devices, including the converter, will be powered.
     
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  7. KA1J

    KA1J New Member

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    Thanks for all these replies. It sounds like the battery is trashed as an uncharged battery will quickly be ruined by freezing in the winter. It didn't look expanded but as I didn't have a voltmeter with me and I was over 250 miles from home, I couldn't tell. The large flat automotive fuse at the battery is connected and it sounds like that needs to be disconnected manually when the camper is not being used to prevent bleed.

    I now understand that the switching between battery and shore is automatic for the 12V devices.

    Perhaps it would be best to install a switch to disconnect the battery inside and learn to shut it off when I am not using the Aliner.

    I see the Aliner does not have an inverter to go from 12V to 120. That helps answer some other questions I had.

    I really appreciate the help!

    Thanks
     
  8. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    Rather than physically disconnect the battery whenever the trailer is not being used many of us will add a battery disconnect switch. There are many types & styles, I happen to prefer the Blue Sea m-series switch.

    https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/0/37//m-Series

    [​IMG]
     
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  9. KA1J

    KA1J New Member

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    I'll have to read up on these and see how they're being used & which model to get. A good friend owns a Marina & I'm guessing he will have them in stock.

    I'm surprised there's no built-in battery kill switch if the drain will flatten the batteries so quickly.

    I guess mounting it where it can be easily accessed without opening the camper makes sense, is that where most people put them? It looks like yours is on the outside of the battery box, is that right?
     
  10. nhlakes

    nhlakes Well-Known Member

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    If you already technically own it and the battery situation is not going to make you back out, then just pick it up and deal with it at home. If you want to evaluate before taking it home....
    Definitely bring your own battery, if that doesn't work, look for a shutoff, and perhaps a blown fuse. Anything beyond that is more complicated and may be more of a PITA.
     
  11. KA1J

    KA1J New Member

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    Hi, yes, I now own it, just got the plates for it yesterday, getting a 7 pin connector with electronic brake control put on the Subaru tomorrow & then Friday I will drive over to pick it up.

    I'm not sure of the exact battery size it has so I will bring a voltmeter to test it but if it went through an upstate New York winter with no charge, the battery is killed. I'll bring tools to remove it, stop at Costco on the way back and replace it with a Kirkland deep cycle that fits the container. I'll have to find out which of the bluesea switches is the right one and then I'll install that.

    Much to learn, but the learning is fun.
     
  12. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    Some trailer manufacturers do install a battery disconnect switch but most still don't. I used a Blue Sea m-series battery disconnect switch and mounted it the the sidewall of the battery box because I wanted ready access to it without opening the box. There are many styles available, even this simple one that connects to the battery itself will serve the purpose BUT you'd have to open the box to get to it.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. KA1J

    KA1J New Member

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    Battery issue is now resolved: I brought the Aliner Classic home today and got into it. There was corrosion on the + terminal that was hidden by insulation, looks like acid might have been involved. I will be putting on better connectors but I now know the exact cause.

    Thank you all very much for the suggestions, and I will put on a Blue Sea switch.

    Now I've spent some time with it, I have other questions best asked different threads.
     
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  14. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    Any flooded battery will do this and requires periodic maintenance to prevent it. When this battery eventually dies you might want to consider replacing it with an AGM as one of the many benefits is that the terminals won't "corrode".
     
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  15. KA1J

    KA1J New Member

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    I use AGM in my motorcycles. They really are wonderful. I'll have to see if the price has come down from the last AGM deep cycles I looked at a couple of years back.
     
  16. Allienalrah

    Allienalrah New Member

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    This as good and informative a thread as I’ve seen on the forum. Thank You! I’m a full time solar powered “off gridder” at homeand a new to me 2011 Classic Aliner owner. I’ve lots of experience with inverter DC circuits and the converter and “always on” LP/CO detector is a paradigm shift for me to adapt to. The new owner here and replies are detailed and concise. Good stuff and basically very important.
     

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