2010 Sun Valley bearings and brakes

Discussion in 'Tires / Brakes / Bearings / Axles' started by dandcp, Mar 20, 2020.

  1. dandcp

    dandcp Member

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    Hey all,
    we have a new to us 2010 Sun Valley PU and the past owner said he didn't think the bearings had ever been replaced or repacked in the past 5 years. Tho he didn't use it much maybe 2000 miles total he thought.

    But before I start digging into this job and removing the wheel to check it all out. I wanted to ask if anyone has experience with these or any photos or tips of what I need to do or check.

    I do see these rubber caps that say "Dexter EX lube" on the wheels. My old one didn't have those, so would like info about that too.

    Thanks in advance. I will give updates as I work on this.
     
  2. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    The wheel bearings should be removed, cleaned and inspected. 99% of the time replacement is not needed, and the replacements may not be as good as the originals. You will need 2 new grease seals, with is a must have before hand. The part numbers for the seals, usually a set of 2) is 4716a1441.....or...k71-303-00 which about 22 dollars a pair on Amazon or 10-19 seals from etrailer 5.39 plus shipping.
    The wheel bearings should be found at a professional auto parts store, if needed.
    Just to add ....pry the seal out to avoid damage the bearing unneath them.
    Here are their part numbers ....... The outer bearing L44649 and its matching bearing race L44610
    The inner bearing L68149 and its matching bearing race L68111
    Their are many YouTube clips on repacking the bearings. But just ask if you feel overwhelmed. Post a post of the brakes when you have the drums off and we will advise.
     
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  3. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    The EZ Lub feature is for maintenance only. For peace of mind .......do the repack.
     
  4. dandcp

    dandcp Member

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    Thanks, yes, I will need to pick up some seals first I guess. (how many do I need? Just 1 per tire/side?)
    I just realized i do have a bearing packer grease tool that someone gave me. I can't wait to try it. But also need grease tube then too I guess. Any recommendations on which type of grease tube to buy?

    Also, what is the best way to clean your bearings. AND, do you buy new cotter pin/key or reuse?
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2020
  5. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    One seal per wheel. Cotter pin if needed local purchase. You will need “wheel bearing grease”. The idea of packing is to flush out the old grease between the rollers and the inner bearing race.
     
  6. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    try this video
     
  7. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Well-Known Member

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    Skip the EZ Lube hub setup. It can push grease past the back grease seal. It also fills the hub with grease, which is not the way bearings were meant to be lubed. Wash your bearings to get the old grease out and get a clean bearing. Don't depend on the new grease to push out the old. Doing so can leave contaminants in the bearing, like grit. I prefer to hand pack bearings, like the video. When installing the new grease seal, avoid wood for a tool. It can splinter, leave saw dust, and sand behind. Put a clean piece of metal over the seal and tap it in. The guy in the video needed a smaller hammer.
     
  8. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    Don't do like me! After changing to a smaller screw driver to get the dust cover off I got more and more aggressive until the screw driver was no longer where it should be and I tapped a slot in the dust cover. The keyed 'cage' (if no pin) that covers the nut pries off and goes back on easily once lined up.
     
  9. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    OP also asked, and me too, what would you use to wash the old grease out of the bearings? Is gas OK, then blow out with air to dry? Other cleaner? Gas, Then BrakeKleen?
     
  10. dandcp

    dandcp Member

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    I was going to ask the same thing too. I have done bearings once before in my old PU, but that was years ago. And I used my gloved hands, but wasn't sure if I did it correctly. I think I cleaned with gas. But what should I use?

    Also, with type of grease, just any wheel grease tube is fine from Autozone or wherever? OR should it be synthetic if there is such a thing, or is there any cheap type to avoid etc.

    Looks like etrailer is the best price for seals. even with shipping costs.
    Thanks!
     
  11. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    diesel, gas, brake cleaner no air
     
  12. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    Ok. I'll bite... After washing and rinsing in gas, why shouldn't you blow compressed air at bearings to dry and be sure any left over particles have a (slightly) better chance of being removed?
     
  13. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    Because you do not want to spin the "bare" roller bearings. With no Lub they will damage easily.
     
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  14. xxxapache

    xxxapache Well-Known Member

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    After you get your bearings all packed freshly, buy a spare set and carry them with you or better yet, one of the complete hubs with the greased bearings preinstalled.
     
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  15. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Well-Known Member

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    Low pressure air is fine. Keep the bearing from spinning to keep it from running dry. I've seen guys stick a bearing on their finger, hit it with compressed air and make it sing. If the bearing locked up, it may have taken their finger off from inertia.
     
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  16. joet

    joet Well-Known Member

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    As for grease, you want a NLGI #2 with a high drop point. I prefer one with a 450 degree or better
     
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  17. davekro

    davekro Active Member

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    Since I'm pulling the wheels and hubs to inspect and regrease, I think I 'will' go ahead and clean out the old grease and re-pack with one of the good high temp recommended greases. Having experience with only boat trailers in the past 40 years with bearing buddy's which fully fill the entire hub's cavity with grease, I was surprised to see only grease on the actually bearings and 'non' (even seeped into) the center of the hub! Heh, the grease stays put, who knew. [;)] I have since read, yeh, no need to fill the whole thing! ha!
     
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  18. A-Ranger12

    A-Ranger12 Member

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    Late to the thread.

    New bearings are $20-30 on Amazon, and often come with new grease seals and cotter pins. The only issues with replacing the bearings is driving out the old races and driving in new ones. That needs a big freaking hammer, a stout drift, something to rest the hub on, and patience.

    For getting the new races in, I cut a 45* cut into the old ones and used those along with a BFH and a giant impact socket or my drift to drive the new races down. The new races were frozen for a few hours before, which did help a little.
     
  19. WrkrBee

    WrkrBee Well-Known Member

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    Did you grease the hub and races to make them easier to install? Sometimes a BFH and drift will chip a hardened race surface.
     
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  20. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    I never had to use an overwhelming force to put a quality bearing race in a hub. Start it squarely using an old race > tap in with a brass punch alternating from one side to the other.
     

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