2011 Viking 12v power issues

Discussion in 'Power - Site Power/Batteries/Generators/Solar' started by ckelly02, Jun 1, 2020.

  1. ckelly02

    ckelly02 Member

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    Hey Everyone,
    I was helping my brother over the weekend with his 2011 Viking Epic 1906ST. When he is hooked up to shore power, all of the 12V components work. But when we did not have it hooked up, none of the 12V components worked, aside from his electric lift. He bought the battery last year, but I still checked the battery and it is putting out 12.65 volts. I checked all his fuses, and they're all good. Any ideas on what could cause this to happen? Sorry I don't have any pictures to post. But I figured I'd post on here to see if there's any advice out there on what to check next. Thanks in advance!
     
  2. tombiasi

    tombiasi Well-Known Member

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    You are not getting 12 v inside the camper. Main fuse? Reverse polarity fuse.
     
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  3. ckelly02

    ckelly02 Member

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    We checked the main 30 amp fuse and the three 15 amp fuses on the power converter. They all were good. Where would the reverse polarity fuse be?
     
  4. bheff

    bheff Well-Known Member

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    I had an inline fuse coming off the battery to the converter. There was a fuse holder that was pretty hidden before it went into the box. Follow your positive wire and make sure there isnt a hidden fuse.
     
  5. ckelly02

    ckelly02 Member

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    Here are a couple photos he was able to send me. The in line fuse right off the positive terminal (I believe it's a fuse anyway) was just replaced by him and was installed per the instructions he was given.

    100850663_605225073685307_5686560695886282752_n.jpg 101873493_388116075422221_7962221591226482688_n.jpg
     
  6. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    I would think the negative terminal should only have the large ground wire connected to it. And where do the other wires go? The large one of the positive terminal does it splice into a different color wire? I hope it does. And you will have to trace were the 2 small black wires go..... I don't think they belong on the negative terminal.
     
  7. tombiasi

    tombiasi Well-Known Member

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    The reverse polarity fuse is the 30 Amp at the bottom of your converter.
     
  8. MNTCamper

    MNTCamper Well-Known Member

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    Black coded wires are not usually connected to the negative battery terminal. I think you have a wiring issue at the battery.
     
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  9. Grandpa Don

    Grandpa Don Well-Known Member

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    That connection to the Positive on the battery is only for the electric lift. I have the exact same connections. There is no connection for the positive 12vdc going into the camper. One of those wires on the negative post is in the wrong place. It should be a red wire that might have looked a little pink by now. I can't imagine why there are so many wires on the negative post. Normally there is one for the electric lift winch and one for the camper. That biggest white wire is probably for the winch ground. I think maybe the wire with the red insulator on it should be on the positive. That's what it looks like to me. But before you do anything, tell me where each of the wires on the negative post are going.
     
  10. rabird

    rabird Howdy!

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    there is no battery fuse @ the power center.

    THE RED WIRE IS MISSING ITS FUSE

    Please note the info printed at the top of the circuit board, red wire battery

    wire color coding is less than desirable!
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2020
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  11. Grandpa Don

    Grandpa Don Well-Known Member

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    That is not a fuse coming off the Positive post on the battery. It is a re-settable circuit breaker for overload protection on the electric winch. I have a 2003 version of the same Viking camper and I have the same connection from the winch to my battery. My battery positive post has that same winch connection and one other wire that supplies 12 volts dc to the inside of the camper via the controller. My negative post has only two wires. One is the winch negative and the other is the camper negative.
     
  12. arge

    arge Active Member

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    As mentioned above, there is a connection issue in the picture, there is a wrong wire connected to the negative (I bet it is the one with the red sleeve). Anyway, also I bet the issue is already solved. I am writing here to share my experience. I had a very similar setup. After I had enough with the power winch failures, I decided to have it replaced with a manual winch (I love it, but this is another story). So I am taking out the trailer from the mechanic shop in a Thu pm and some friends are calling me: hey, do you want camping tomorrow? I was like, neah, I didn't checked my trailer etc, but at the end I said what the heck, if something missing or going wrong, they will be there for me. So, arriving home Thu pm, I took out the battery, memorize the cable positions (only 2 cables now), top-up the battery over the night, reinstall to the camper and here we go.
    Arriving at the campsite I realize I have no power. On my converter, the top fuse is a 20a and was blown. replaced with a 30amp that I had, still no power. I didn't stressed too much, I borrowed shore power from my friend, all good.
    Back home, let's try to see what's wrong. Checked the wires, (the thinker with the wires in the shop) black to +, white to neg-.good. Just to be sure, I reversed them, of course, a couple of new 20ams were blown off. So, the wiring is fine.
    still no power. Checked the inline fuse, that is on the positive wire, under the A-frame in my case. All good.
    Last year I tinkered a bit with this Hopkins break away switch, 3 wires, I made a bit of mess in my wiring as I had bad connectors etc. Maybe is from that. I took it off, connect all wires. Noting.
    I checked the ground. Just enough to put the screwdriver on it and the camper comes back to life. Check the power all good, less the ceiling. Here was an easy fix, I knew from the start: the safety thing behind the sink was stuck. So this it was all. Easy peasy... time for lunch break.
    Coming back, I took off the ground screw which just disintegrate, replace it. Put back the break away switch, made the connections back and... nothing. Ok, my patience was going thin. Get the ground screw out, go back to the frame, scratch the frame, remove the paint, I sand the connector. Nothing. More scratching on the paint, replaced the connector. I was 100% is the ground issue. Nothing. Ok. so, take out the breakaway, put a new other one, just a 2 wire one (the hopkins had a ground). Nothing. I was on the edge now. It was working earlier, I had power. now nothing...
    Checking again on the wires, I tinkled a bit with the inline fuse and I heard the CO detector getting back to life. So, I took the fuse out, sand it, put it back, all good. Finished the connectors, put all wiring as nicely is possible back to the frame etc. all good.
    The story: what was working 5 minutes ago, may fail (see the online fuse issue).
    Everything started with the wrong battery hookup. Maybe it was done by myself and I didn't noticed, maybe the shop guy, who knows. Easy to have it fixed and the fuse replaced. But the ground was bad too; and after that the inline fuse. It was a succession of the events one leading to another.
     

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