3-way fridge 110v no longer working

Discussion in 'Refrigerators and Coolers' started by John Rock, Jul 10, 2018.

  1. John Rock

    John Rock Member

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    Hi,

    Before my first week-long trip with the new to me pup, I plugged it in for 2 days before my trip and I'm positive it was cool when we left.

    Once at the campground, it had lost it's cool and it never got cool again until I tried using the propane mode, which works great. Also, note that when we arrived at the camp, I noticed a few hours later that the GFI outlet had tripped... not sure why or when that happened.

    Any was, now I'm back home and I plugged it in last night, almost 24 hours ago, it has not cooled.

    Can someone walk me through troubleshooting this?

    Thanks!
     
  2. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    Test the outlet it's plugged into to check for power? Or do you k ow it's the frige allready? Easier to start with ideas after the simple stuff is ruled out.
     
  3. Jean-Pierre Tanguay

    Jean-Pierre Tanguay Member

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    I had reset the GFI outlet at the campground, but this didn't resolve the fridge issue. Someone mentioned that the fridge is probably not on the same circuit as the outlet. Not sure how to check if the fridge is getting power or not.
     
  4. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

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    Plug a lamp or other 110 VAC item in the outlet box in the refrigerator outside compartment.
     
  5. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    What kind of camper? In mine the plug is visible from the outside door where I switch it over. Some might be able to help, if they know what camper, make model year
     
  6. Jean-Pierre Tanguay

    Jean-Pierre Tanguay Member

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    Do you mean that the fridge is plugged into an outlet, where there's also the gas control?
     
  7. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    In mine yes.
     
  8. Jean-Pierre Tanguay

    Jean-Pierre Tanguay Member

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    It's a Pony 2100 and where right, there's a plug in the upper left side that I had not noticed. I checked the fridge just now and it now cooler at last going from 32 to 22 celsius overnight, about 36 hours after starting it. So it looks like it does nothing for 24h, then starts to cool.

    Is this normal? If so, is it realistic to use the fridge in electric mode when your just going for a weekend or moving sites every 3 days or so? Seems like propane mode is the only realistic way of keeping things cool thanks to quicker cooling times... Perhaps a few hours...
     
  9. Jean-Pierre Tanguay

    Jean-Pierre Tanguay Member

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    Grrrrr it's back at 30 celcius again! Is it only cooling at night thanks to cooler outside temps?

    I checked and power IS going to the outlet where the fridge is plugged in
     
  10. Merlin14

    Merlin14 Active Member

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    Watch this video (link below) and others on his channel. It will help you much.

     
  11. John Rock

    John Rock Member

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    Thank you very much for the videos, very usefull to get to know how these systems work. My model is the Dometic RM2193 btw.

    I've started taking things a part in the back, for one to clean the LP components, but I also tested continuity on the 110 heater element and I'm not getting any, so that element must be broken. I've tried removing it by pulling upwards very hard, but it stops once it reaches to upper limit of the hole in the metal cylinder.

    Any tips on removing the heater element?
     
  12. Jean-Pierre Tanguay

    Jean-Pierre Tanguay Member

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    So I managed to "open up" the metal cylinder by removing the top parts, which then allowed removing the faulty element. I also took apart the burner and sure enough, there was a spider cocoon completely blocking the burner flow.

    I've put everything together and gas mode working nicely again.

    But when using the new element, the whole access pannel gets super hot but not the fridge temp. Initially it seemed like it was working, then it stopped because my home outlet tripped at some point. After resetting the outlet, that's when I noticed that it was getting very hot in the back but not in the fridge.

    I did notice that the new element had more exposed metal which maybe explains the very warm access pannel?
     
  13. SteveP

    SteveP Well-Known Member

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    The top vent should get warm but the access panel should remain cool. Maybe the air flow up the back of the fridge between vents is blocked.
     
  14. Jean-Pierre Tanguay

    Jean-Pierre Tanguay Member

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    The vents aren't blocked and the outside temps are relatively cool. Yesterday in the evening, the internal fridge temp climbed to 80+ and then it comes back down to 63ish in the morning, which seems to indicate that the temp in the access pannel is one of the problems at least. So far I had the temp control knob to 7, but I dialed it back to 1 to test if it's working. One of my hypothesis is that the element is heating at max current and therefore heating too much to whole space behind the fridge. So far, I haven't noticed the element/cheminey getting cooler going from 7 to 1.

    The other thing that's bothering me is that alot of the element is exposed outside the cheminey (picture attached). The one I replaced had the plastic sleeve butted against the insulation, like the 12v one besides it. I think I inserted the replacement element in the right spot, but I'm hesiting at the moment. With so much of the element exposed, it's always going to generate alot of heat back there.

    Would love some feedback on these next steps I'm thinking of for troubleshooting:

    1. Let it run a few more hours on level 1 to confirm if it's less hot, or if indeed the temp control is broken
    2. Stop 110v and retry gas to confirm if fridge is still working correctly and compare heat in access pannel
    3. Double check to see if element is inserted correctly in sleeve and if normal that so much of the element is exposed

    With those results, figure out next steps.

    element.png
     

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