Adding A/C to a 2001 Coleman Santa Fe...

Discussion in 'Heating / Cooling Systems' started by TeamECKO, Jan 2, 2019.

  1. TeamECKO

    TeamECKO Member

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    Hello All,


    During this off season I am looking to add an air conditioner to my 2001 Coleman Santa Fe. I have been doing research on different models and it looks like the Coleman Mach 8 has good reviews and can offer both A/C and a heat add-on. During my research I have had some questions come up I was hoping to bounce off of everyone.

    -Does anyone have experience with the Mach 8? https://www.airxcel.com/coleman-mac...ners/ultra-low-profile/mach-8/mach-8-ac-15000

    -I see it comes in both 13,500 BTU’s and 15,000 BTU’s. We will be camping in drier areas that hover around 100 degrees in the summers. Is the 15,000 overkill, or just right for our mid sized camper?

    -Is it worth paying the little extra for the model with condensate pump?

    -Is the electric heat add-on useful or not very effective?

    -Any issues with weight adding a 90-100 pound A/C to a Coleman camper with an ABS roof? When camping we also use a shower rod to hang a collapsing storage system on that holds 5-6 days worth of clothes (or 3 days for two people), would the combination of these be too much? Or is it ok since the clothing storage is t hung until after the roof is fully raised? We currently don’t have an A/C unit, but it appears to be ready for one (has the four markers for the 14”x14” A/C cut out, and what appears to be a stabilizer bar.


    Sorry for the barrage of questions, but thanks for any help you can give.
     
  2. TeamECKO

    TeamECKO Member

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    Here is a not so good picture of the A/C area of the camper and what I think is a roof support/stabilizer

    0BA8AF67-243E-4103-BFBC-B73CF3B21E0F.jpeg
     
  3. Shaman1

    Shaman1 Well-Known Member

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    I do not have experience with the Mach 8, but these are my thoughts after adding a rooftop ac to my '89 Newport.
    1. Go with the 15000 over the 13500. It's only going to lower your inside temp 10 - 20 deg F from ambient, but the 15000 won't work as hard.
    2. Run the power cord separately to the electric pole. These things are notorious for sucking power.
    3. I routinely camp in 90-100+ weather and have never needed a condensate pump.
    4. I have found better heat output from an electric plug in heater than from the heat strips on the roof ac.
    5. My brace looks very similar to the one in your picture. I have had no issues with mine.
    6. Measure your roof for sag before the ac, if you start to have any sag later you can always add a second support.
    Good Luck - Steve
     
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  4. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    Many years ago I installed a Carrier AirV on our then new 2000 Santa Fe - pics start here ...

    https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=Y0tiYWFzQl8xdGRCRmwwOV90TXBtYlpOZHdRc3VB

    I'd highly recommend this method of 2 smaller holes - one intake, one exhaust - rather than a single 14" square vent hole. You'll remove much less material and weaken the surrounding area much less. You also absolutely want to cut whatever hole(s) you do put in your roof with ROUND corners, otherwise the ABS skin is sure to split at the corners.

    At the time we often camped in states like S Carolina, Tennessee, Kentucky, etc and out west where summertime temps were brutal and found the 13,500 BTU A/C entirely sufficient. The key is to retain as much of that cold air as possible by using PUGs over the bunk end tenting and Reflectix window inserts, both of which help enormously. As far as heat goes the heat strip will direct some mildly warm air into the bunk ends but it's really marginal, you'd do far better with a stand alone ceramic heater.
     
  5. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    I have ,i think , the 1350 model that came with my 2000 westlake. It works , but in high humidity not as well. I would always spend the extra if i was doing it new. The heater is basicly just a air warmer, not a heater but to make mornings a bit more convenient. Not bad to have but not a replacement for heat. You need the support bar, and you have it. Mine is an abs roof , no porblums with weight and hanging stuff. I think the santa fe has a smaller roof, so i wouldent be worried about it.
     
  6. Jonas LaPointe

    Jonas LaPointe New Member

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    We just bought a 2002 Fleetwood Coleman Utah and thinking about AC too. We have the support bar and the 20A outlet near the converter. Good idea about running power separately to the site hook up. I’ll definitely consider that once I get further along.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2019
  7. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    CONVERTER. :smiley:
     
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  8. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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  9. TeamECKO

    TeamECKO Member

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    Hi All,

    Sorry for dropping off the grid, work has been quite hectic. Thanks for everyone’s feedback and suggestions. I recently purchased the Mach 8, and after looking at the suggestions above, went with the 15K model. I went with an RV dealership install since I was a little nervous about screwing up a cut in the ABS.

    Thanks again for all of the suggestions. Attached is a photo of our new A/C.
     

    Attached Files:

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  10. GreyFox

    GreyFox Well-Known Member

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    Inside a Fleetwood popup there are four plastic buttons that mark the corners of a standard 14" square vent hole over which one would mount an A/C ... is yours mounted further to the rear of the trailer, as it seems to be in your pics? [?:~{]
     
  11. TeamECKO

    TeamECKO Member

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    The A/C is mounted to the A/C mount area (the area in between the four plastic buttons. I believe the portion of the A/C that goes through the ceiling is more forward on the unit than center, so it looks like it sits farther back than it is. Possibly due to it being a low profile unit?
     

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