Thank you . If i run a 16 or bigger back to the Inverter will the little bit of 20 gauge on the usb be ok. It came on them and is soldered in.Those are powered off 12VDC, so you will need to find a nearby source of 12V power or run a cable back to your converter. If you need to extend the wires I would recommend using #16 or better.
True statements, but not really that consequential to USB devices, unless your installing 65w PD ports. 5v 2a =10w. 12v 1a=12w. The 65w pd ports also don't operate at 5v.. they operate at higher voltages. That's how that are able to use the same thickness cables.I don’t know about your AC outlet, but a lot of the ones (mine included) installed in RVs are of a press fit type, so you can’t easily change them to a house type outlet that just has the 2 wires pushed into little holes. I think it would be much easier to just tap into an existing 12 volt line. I wouldn’t bother with that 20 awg wire, 16 awg or higher would be what I’d run. The bigger the awg the less resistance.
True, but most regulators require #16 minimum for power distribution wiring, if not #14.20AWG can carry max 11 amps of load. If a typical 2-3amp USB output plus some loss (even at 1 amp) in stepdown voltage, you'd still be fine even running 20AWG all the way to the DC distribution fuse panel. DO NOT connect to your 110VAC outlet wiring.
I'm assuming the OP meant converter, not Inverter.Powering up a 115vac Inverter to supply a usb charger from a 12v system introduces plenty of inefficiencies. Maybe you're lucky and the USB outlet is being powered off the 12v system, not off the Inverter's 115vac side. But for me, I would get a 12v USB adapter and plug it into the trailer's 12v system.
Do you a link or a picture?
Are you referring to 120VAC (household) or 12VDC (round car type) outlets?
Interesting. So this 12v system you wired in is totally separate from the Shore Power/Inverter? Or do you have a wire coming from the trailers main fuse block to your 12v subpanel? Sorry I’m pretty new to the world of trailer wiring.