Aftermarket canvas replacement, Show your PICTURES :)

Discussion in 'Canvas / Awnings / Add a Rooms / Tarps / Tents' started by davekro, Nov 23, 2019.

  1. Sneezer

    Sneezer Well-Known Member

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    Before - original factory canvas:
    1B4253C0-A035-4B04-B705-A382B3F635A3.jpeg

    After - factory Jayco replacement canvas but it was tweaked in later years with extra side windows on the dinette and a more appealing tan color too.
    FFE9F8E2-830C-470B-81C5-3B3680D32C9D.jpeg
     
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  2. Steveo4090

    Steveo4090 Well-Known Member

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    The side windows are a nice addition. Looks better too imo.
     
  3. davekro

    davekro Well-Known Member Gold Supporting Member

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    Thank you for the before and after! Very helpful to see how the new canvas fits compared to the original. But in your case it was an ‘improved’ version From Jayco. I bet that was a pleasant surprise! In our case, our trim color is blue where yours is green. The blue matches the decals, so I really want blue again. Thanks againn for the pics!
     
  4. Sneezer

    Sneezer Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, that was a pleasant surprise. I was super happy when I got it. It has held up well, and was way cheaper than the aftermarket options too. Allowed me to fix/mod other stuff at the time.
     
  5. davekro

    davekro Well-Known Member Gold Supporting Member

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    I placed an order with Canvas Replacements .com. When I inquired if their pattern was from Starcraft OEM of from a previous customer sending in their canvas to make a pattern. Jessi said the latter. I had asked if they could include the green 5/8" green trim below the windows all around where the color changes from the gray main color to the Navy Blue lower trim from window bottom to bottom of canvas. She said their sew shop mgr said their pattern does not have the thin green strip. She said I should ship my canvas to them to use as a pattern. Has anyone shipped their canvas to Canvas Replacements? Did they credit your order for your price to ship your canvas to them? (Like Bear Creek did for Orchid years ago when she bought hers years ago.)

    Anyone know if they disassemble your old canvas to make patterns from, or just measure it? I will need to call as they have not been very responsive via email. They did already charge my card though, I was a bit surprised. But not concerned.

    Our old OEM canvas is in great shape except for the cracking parchment bunk roofs. I kind of like having the old canvas in case some major calamity tears out one of our sides, and we have a fall back.

    The OEM has smoke windows. We decide we want clear on our new canvas. I have no concern about heat because on the sun side, I always slip those Mylar windshield sunblocks between the vinyl window and the outer screening. I had thought of cutting Refletix to size for this, but the Mylar shades are so convenient and fold into nothing!

    *Side, drivers copy.jpg
     

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    Last edited: Feb 1, 2021
  6. davekro

    davekro Well-Known Member Gold Supporting Member

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    Should a tent trailer's canvas seams have seam tape when manufactured?

    [ The 1/31/21 Pictures above are of course the 'before' pics. ]
    Last week we received our new canvas from Canvas Replacements and mostly installed it yesterday. I am VERY surprised they did not use seam tape in between the seems. The sun shines brightly through every needle hole like mini LEDs. :eek:/

    Curious if people with Bear Creek canvas know if there seams had seam tape installed or they could see light shining through the needle holes like mine shows. I never saw any light through the Starcraft OEM canvas needle holes. Or does anyones OEM canvas show light through the needle holes? I will probably look at sealing at least the bunk end top edges seams while everything is still clean and new. Maybe more, we'll see.

    I did an experiment and inverted this rear bunk end roof corner to water test the seems. Upon spraying the brand new and dry seams with a squirt bottle, no water came through after ≈ 15 seconds wait. Then we poured a few cups of water into the inverted corner. Water came first through the flat surface seams, and then also through the bunk roof's top side and end seams. Although most of these seams are vertical and water should not have an opportunity to puddle on them, the bunk top side seams might get some water sitting or flowing on them.



    Back roof corner left bunk-in.jpg

    The only two small variances that were are easily adapted were: 1) The bunk ends are a bit longer and 2) the bunk end sides are maybe 2"longer/lower than the OEM canvas. We sent the old canvas to them at their request (added $100 to our over all cost to make it $1,255). The long front side Shepard's hook had room to adjust out to adjust. I will make a small extension or maybe a new Shepard's hook to extend more than the other side has to adjust. I'll just move the underneath bunk end attachment points inward. No big deal for either of these adaptions. Aside from unsealed needle holes on seams, the construction quality looks good. Coming from tinted windows with our OEM canvas, we LOVE the clear windows for a better view to the outside. Heat blocking is not an issue because I always cover sides of the sun side and end with Mylar window shades or Reflectix.

    Door side from back.jpg .


    Not very good shots tucked in the side yard.
     

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  7. kitphantom

    kitphantom Well-Known Member Platinum Supporting Member

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    @davekro-
    when we bought new canvas from CR, the first instructions, after installing, were to wet it down thoroughly a couple of times. The thread used, at least at that time, was meant to swell once wet, filling the needle holes well. I've seen reports of this process in the meantime, so I assume that it is still in effect.
     
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  8. davekro

    davekro Well-Known Member Gold Supporting Member

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    Our canvas came with no instructions and none emailed either. I wanted to check with our experienced community before asking CR about it. I see CR sells an Iosso brand Seam Sealer.
    I'll give the 'Wet down seams a couple of times to fill needle holes well' process the old college try. ;o)
    Here is a YouTube video of the 1st leak test (3:40) from post #26 above. Flat 2 piece seams leaked after ≈ 30 seconds. Four thickness bias binded top edges started leaking at maybe 60 seconds.

    2nd leak test: Where I had inverted the bunk end roof corner and filled with water for the 1st leak test mentioned above, I retested with a few cups of water. On seams with just two pieces sewn together (flat areas), the needle holes still appear large and in fact still let standing water through. But after ≈ 15-20 mins. the top roof corner and end seams that have the outer bias binding sewn over the edges did not 'seem to leak this time'. The swelling 'may be' working better when there are four thicknesses of vinyl.** (See 3rd leak test in next post #29)

    Before 3rd leak test: I have soaked that area, totally emerged in a 6 gal. bin of water for ≈ 1 hour. Just to be sure to maximize the opportunity for the thread to swell and needle holes to shrink. I am now letting the sun dry it out well. Then I will do a 3rd leak test.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2021
  9. davekro

    davekro Well-Known Member Gold Supporting Member

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    ** 3rd leak test: The flat seams still flowed water through the needle holes when ≈ 3/4 gallon was poured again into the same inverted roof corner (from outer side). When I gently lifted the water sack, so to speak, to view the double bias binded top & side seems, they both seeped water through. I can conclude that after completely soaking the tested corner underwater three times, then letting the vinyl dry out completely after each 'soaking', even after the third round, the seams still leaked, that the thread will NOT swell/ expand to fill the sizable needle holes. This is way more opportunity for water to do it's 'thread expansion', if it was too, than hosing the raised camper with water a couple of times. I will be researching the seam sealers for the balance of great seal and 'not noticeable' to the eye.

    Any suggestions for seam sealers you might have used that struck a good balance, please let me know.

    The needle holes actually let enough sunlight through that you can see the light shining on the support pole where near a seam.

    Back roof corner left bunk-in.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2021
  10. Bullfrog Bheer

    Bullfrog Bheer Well-Known Member

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    Wow. If someone is spending the money for a whole new canvas, I wouldn't think they should also have to mess around sealing the seams as well. It should be good to go AND leak proof. We are finally having to replace our original Evolution III canvas on our 1989 Coleman and are doing the research as best we can as to Canvas Replacement or Bear Creak. Last time I checked, there was about a $200 difference. I'm am also very interested in ease of replacement.
     
  11. davekro

    davekro Well-Known Member Gold Supporting Member

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    Our CV canvas was super easy to install. But that may depend on the type of extrusion the top of your canvas attaches to the roof with. In or 1999 Starcraft, there is simply a flat piece of plastic sewn into the top. This folds over 180 degrees then you can slide it down into the extrusion along the roof. Or, you can start at on end and slide it into the extrusion. We did both Ways on different pieces. I was amazed how easy it was. I had seen a YouTube of a guy installing a new canvas that said it was a very time consuming pia to pry and force the canvas into his Pup’s roof extrusion.

    Can any Coleman folks report how the canvas is removed and reinstalled Into Coleman’s roof extrusion for hi Serena Pup?
     
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  12. Bullfrog Bheer

    Bullfrog Bheer Well-Known Member

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    Did the original canvas fasten to the door with velcro? We went with Bear Creek too, but our canvas attaches to the door with the push-in molding.
     

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