Aliner 2018 Scout Review Over all: OK for a retired couple with minimal expectations. One has to be an organizer, so I stay out of the way in the morning. Likes- This is a light weight, easily towed, basic, hard side popup. Fairly quick and easy setup. It's better than a tent. The wife thinks it's cute. She likes the large windows. Needed Improvements- NOTE: I've been in maintenance for over 40 years & have a mechanical engineering background. I have basic common sense design expectations. I question if the guys designing / building the Aliners, have camped in one for a week or two. Why is there only a few pounds (2500/3000) difference between the two axle options? Just put the heavier 3000 lb axle under all Scouts, so you would not have to worry about unintentional overloading, hitting potholes, & other unexpecteds. I believe mine got air born going on to a bridge on I-95 doing 65 mph. I think the axle was overloaded on the landing. Note: "Specs" length is 15'. It's a 12' camper. Note: "Specs" say 2 Stabilizer Jacks. Wrong. It has "stabilizers", not jacks for leveling. Most RV jacks use a 3/4" hex nut to drive the stabilizer. Aliner use a slotted wall socket. Cool Cube AC (5k BTU) is undersized & struggles to cool in 80 deg weather. A camper sold in the south (Georgia) should handle the southern climate. Despise the Cool Cube AC controls. Four little buttons (Reset, Mode, Up, & Down). No common sense way to cut on & off. Just adjusting the temp is a pain. Give me something user friendly with intuitive controls like a house thermostat. The placement of the AC is far from ideal. You are sleeping on top of the unit. It sounds like an 18 wheeler is idling on the site next to you. Uninsulated AC ducts condensates on outside & drips in the under bed storage compartment. Southern issue. This needs to be dried out after camping. It also limits what is stored there. Aliner would not supply insulated duct to replace under warranty. Update: I replaced them myself. AC vents are beside the return air vent, which sucks. You have to aim AC vents up toward the center of the camper. The return air duct should be run to the dinette area during manufacture. When you pull the bed out, an AC cave is formed. The bed has a bottom lip for a stop. With the air aimed up, it hits the lip & is turned down. You basically lose AC by trapping it in a tiny compartment with the return air vent. Cool Cube senses return air temperature for control; the camper will never cool with AC air trapped in a cave. We run 2 small fans at the vents to push the cool air out before it is sucked in the return. A fan on the dinette blows toward the peak to push the warm air down. We add a small evaporation cooler on the dinette end, that helps when needed. Update: Drilled holes in the fire extinguisher holder to act as the cold air return vent. Return air filter is a foam sheet stapled to plywood! "Filter" is under the back bed setup. Even a cheap Walmart AC has a removable filter that can be cleaned. Common sense. I'll have to modify that soon. Had to troubleshoot the AC the first day in Florida. Shop had left the breaker off when checking ducts condensating. Discovered the Cool Cube is encased in plastic cardboard. Even the power connection compartment cover is plastic cardboard. I am not used to things being built this cheap. No wiring diagram in "owners manual". Owners manual tries to cover all Aliners- poorly. I have a bunch of useless information for stuff I do not have- electric brake types not on camper, LP system, LP detector, stove, water heater, furnace, water system, etc. Information I do need for maintenance is missing. Wiring diagrams! How do I check the emergency electric brakes? They need to be actuated sometimes to make sure they work. Information in "Owner's Manual" on the break-away switch does not help. Is it one time or can it be reset? A manual way to actuate the brakes is needed for pre-road trip check. If the brakes are never used, I doubt they will work when actually needed. If hooked up per the manual, brakes will never work. 1" wide x 1/8" thick plastic trim applied to 1/2" wood used for dinette top and counter tops, so half of trim is unsupported! With just a little handling, the dinette table trim starts releasing. First thing you need to do is cut and glue 1/2" support strips to the back side of the trim. This should be done at Aliner! Sun glare off top section of aluminum diamond step plate ends will blind you when you walk up to the camper. It can blind the driver behind you, at the right time of day. Flat black, black anodized, black powder coat, or even brushed would be better. Lift assist / high wind kit should be STANDARD. On extended trips, you have no control over conditions you have to camp in. Known camper design issues show that high wind protection and extra side wall & roof support is needed. A locked indicator for the "fantastic fan" cover is needed. It has vague graphics that indicate locked should be full counter clockwise, where it is actually locked at the top. After picking camper up from the dealer, we had to get off the road when the cover opened, put the camper up, figure it out, & lock the fan cover. Of course it was raining. This has happened again. The switch labels are curling already. Water leak at back skylight & running out the bottom of the trim. Found a pin hole in sealant around edge of skylight. I assumed this sealant was decorative to finish the edge of skylight, but it is the main "seal". I now assume that the skylight is not set in a bed of sealant. Expect leaks. Update: After a two day rain in Florida: Close to half of the top upper left silicone was poorly applied. I cut out sealant, blew the water out with air hose, & reapplied sealant. During travel in the rain, water wets right front cushions. Found Silicone missing at end of aluminum metal holding flexible top seal. When you make the back bed, there is a 5/8" drop from the pull out part to the stationary part. I can feel it laying on it. Update: I used a 1/2" foam backpacking pad. I cut about 8" off side so when we slide the bed back, the pad stops it short from reaching the base & scrubbing on it during transporting. Storage compartments need access from the interior, so you do not have to move cushions & support boards all the time. Cushions are large & bulky to move around in a confined space. Update: Storage access door now added. Access to storage area under bed from the outside needed. Update: Exterior door added. Battery & box should be supplied, properly mounted, & drained below the frame. The battery framework sits on the trailer tongue with open sides. The dealer gave me a battery box, but the only thing holding it in place was the cheap plastic strap. Box is now bolted down, false bottom to protect the battery from bolt heads, drained below the frame, & the battery braced to keep it from moving. I would expect the battery 20A fuse holder to be mounted & protected. From the factory, it hangs outside from the battery & is just added in-line with cheap no-strip connectors. A little salt from winter roads or a coastal trip will corrode those connections quickly. This means your brakes & other stuff will not work, eventually. Sealed connections. Outlet locations- two become about useless when the beds are used, since they are under the back pull out & dinette bed. Only the one in front of the sink remains usable. An outside 110v receptacle is needed by the door. Dinette table wobbles, bad taper fit on top & bottom of single center support. Curtains don't close together right. Badly installed! I want to open the truck tailgate without it hitting the camper jack. Again, do the people building the Aliner, actually use the RV. Sink drain had to be Siliconed going through floor. The black stuff Aliner used did not hold. Need option for carrying 2 bikes on the camper tongue. Bikes are standard equipment for camping. Taillights are unsealed & use a notch/tab to hold the lens. Anyone can walk by & take one. Right brake light quit working due to bad factory wire nut inside camper. May 2018 update: Door threshold round foam seal has split. Logic would tell you to put a solid threshold on the floor and the foam seal would be on the bottom of the door to swing out of the way of feet & for the loading/unloading of equipment. Aliner sent another seal. June 2018 update: Fire extinguisher falls out of holder now. It uses a soft plastic strap & once it is opened a time or two, the retaining notches are shot. How about a real latch. July 2018 update: Wide roof seal split after pickup from dealer. Aliner replaced it in February 2018. We tried to set dinette sleeper up for the grandson & nothing fits. Owner's manual is useless on the "VersaDine" setup. I asked Aliner to show me how the dinette is to be set up to sleep. Update: So the dinette table is not used, but "stored" on the floor. Aliner supplies 4 boards, 6" wide, for a total of 24" support. The hole to fill is 38", so there are 14" of unsupported bed. Aliner needs to provide two more support boards. I cut 2 more boards. August 2018- Main roof wide seal split again. Aliner sent another seal to RV shop for replacement. Admitted old seals are butt joined, hence the straight split. New seal is one piece. April 2019- Right side unlatched and door was ajar. Frame flexing over railroad tracks / speed bumps, opens latch & door. I hope this helps. It is a good concept, but it could be executed so much better. I like Axle Heck's quote; "I had the lowest of expectations, & I'm still disappointed."