Article from Consumer reports on Auto Oil in 1996

Discussion in 'Tow Vehicles, Hitch & Towing' started by Storm Trooper, Feb 22, 2015.

  1. adrianpglover

    adrianpglover Active Member

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    I've always changed it based upon the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations. On my two Hondas they have a system built into the car that tells you when to change it and what all services you are going to need to do. It's basically every 7500 miles or so and Honda recommends this with conventional oil and regular filters. My F-250 has a similar system but gives a recommended schedule in the manual. In the end, the Odyssey is the only vehicle that hits the mileage mark for an oil change. Both the Civic and the F-250 hit their time limits first. The Hondas say don't go more than 12 months without an oil change, but for the F-250 it's 6 months. I am using Mobil1, high mileage for the truck and car and the normal version for the Minivan. After reading some lengthy and fairly technical threads over at Bob's the Oil Guy, I use Purolator PureONE filters on the Hondas and the Ford spec filter for the truck.

    It is interesting though, the two Hondas use the same filter and drain plug gasket, but the truck and the car use the same oil weight. I understand why the truck doesn't use the same filter or drain plug size as the Hondas since they're from two different companies, but I don't quite understand why Honda specs 5w20 for Civics but 0w20 for their minivans...
     
  2. niagarafam

    niagarafam Active Member

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    I meant to include that I now add a quart of Lucas to the Camry (2.4L). With 180k on the OD, I am researching replacing the cylinder head. She burns about 2.5 qts every 5k. There are no leaks (at least not that I can detect), and I know that this motor is notorious for the oil burning. We also know all about the Toyota recall for oil burning - We did not "qualify," nor do I want them taking apart our engine. I have maintained the PCV and all of the air/fuel/exhaust sensors. From my research, I am assuming that valve guides are the problem. At least I hope that is the problem; I am pretty sure the rings are okay. We have babied the car with excellent drivetrain maintenance, and DW cruises at 55-60 mph (almost all freeway) to work each day. She is a mello driver.

    We have kept the interior and body immaculate. I put on new KYB struts at 150k, and we have performed all of the scheduled maintenance since we bought the car new. DW burns it down the interstate to the tune of 20-25k/year. It has been a good little runner. Our plan is to keep it, making it my work car. We are looking for a new commuter for DW. Then we will assign the RAM exclusively as our TV. I currently use it for work each day.

    Any thoughts on replacing the Toyota's head. I could do a valve job, but in the past, I found myself thinking that I should have just bought a rebuilt head and been done with it. They are $500-600 (+/-) usually with $100 core.
     
  3. niagarafam

    niagarafam Active Member

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    I am getting ready to replace the cam shaft seal on my Maw-in-Law's 2004 Civic. It's made a mess of her driveway, the engine, and the engine compartment. I do what I can to keep up with things for her, but she lives 3.5 hours away. I am taking my tools and a few cans of GUNK with us over Thanksgiving. I will earn my turkey! [LOL]
     
  4. colorado_camper

    colorado_camper Member

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    I switched to Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic on my TV at around 100k miles and I switched my oil change routine from 3k to 5k at the same time. The first time with synthetic in, I didn't notice any difference in performance. However, when I changed it the next time, I noticed a huge improvement in performance. I have stuck to the 5k change routine since then and the oil that comes out of the engine is barely darker than the oil that goes in, that's with somewhere around 172k miles on it now. I think, having read this, that I will switch to 7k changes from now on.
     
  5. ScoobyDoo

    ScoobyDoo New Member

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    No changes in oil or autos in 20 years?
     
  6. f5moab

    f5moab Retired from the Federal Government

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    A lot of changes to engine oil over the years, just look at API index changes from SA in the beginning to the current SN that is what should be used now for modern vehicles. Like I was told by a chemical engineer from GM many years ago, the oil today is NOT the oil your grandfather used, so stop changing your oil as told by gramps.

    And engines have been changed as well as the viscosity and amounts required. My 2013 Silverado 1500 took 6-quarts of 5W-30 (from memory), my 2015 Silverado 1500 required 8.5 quarts of 0W-20, and reading the manual for my 2016 GMC 1500 it takes only 8-quarts of 0W-20. (At least they did away with that stupid half-quart BS.) And GM highly recommends an oil that meets a DEXOS requirement, which is good and bad. Bad in the early days when harder to find, good in the fact they have added some requirements that exceed API standards and making the oil even better. (Almost all name brand oil today meets the Dexos standard and I believe maybe Ford, Chrysler and others have jumped on a bandwagon requiring certain oil. From what I was told Dexos was just a new standard of SN or GF-5...for more info...http://autoweek.com/article/car-news/automakers-switch-new-engine-oil-more-efficiency-better-protection

    Three things I have learned over my long life are:

    • Never debate what truck is better; not worth the time and aggravation and in the end the four big mfgrs in this country all make great PU trucks.
    • Never debate what beer is best (something I cannot do since I do not like beer)
    • And last, never debate the 3,000 mile oil change with those who still adhere to the standard set by gramps.

    Great site for oil reviews. Not so much as to which name brand is better, but it lists those oils that fail to pass scrutiny; those brands found on service station shelves that you have never heard of before....
    https://pqiablog.com/2016/07/15/six-new-motor-oil-samples-tested/
     
  7. tombiasi

    tombiasi Well-Known Member

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    Good advice. I have gotten into that and you will go nowhere. Even if my manual says 7500 miles, they wont hear you.
     
  8. tenttrailer

    tenttrailer Art & Joyce - Columbus, O

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    Changing syn oil every 6k on old tv in cold weather climate with lots of cold starts below 0 F. 215k miles. Engine runs like a top. Uses about 1qt every 6k, mainly from oil seepage at gaskets. New tv change every 10k.

    Oil gets a lot hoter between bearings when towing. I would stay with syn oil. I have seen my oil filter during a hot sumer camping trip get blistered paint. Syn oil holds up better to high temps.
     
  9. ScoobyDoo

    ScoobyDoo New Member

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    My point is this discussion is based on a 20 year old article.
    On my TV I change the oil every 3 months. On other vehicles I have found moisture in the oil after 3 months if not driven often. Some times the pickup gets over 1000 a month or more, sometimes 100 or less. I drive it one day every week, the months of long miles, some will be towing...
     

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