Attaching a new channel to roof

Discussion in 'Canvas / Awnings / Add a Rooms / Tarps / Tents' started by ErinG, Aug 9, 2021.

  1. ErinG

    ErinG Member

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    I'm getting a little more confident and comfortable with working on the pup. When we first got her, the old owners had screwed the awning bag directly into the roof, upside down (insert eye roll here). So I removed it because screws were completely lose and hanging on by a thread and I can only imagine the water that was able to get in. Anyways, I patched the holes with Lexel, which had been recommended to me by another pup group. When I looked into attaching a new channel for the bag I thought "no way can I do that". Now I feel like I can. The awning is great, although it might need new keder rope on it since they screwed through the original. My biggest concern is properly attaching the channel to the roof and keeping the integrity of the roof and properly sealing it to prevent water from getting in. I'm worried since it's already been drilled (14 screws to be exact). Is it safe to attach a new channel or should I just plan to use our easy up tent?
     
  2. Snow

    Snow Well-Known Member

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    Buy the appropriate sized C channel for the awning welt (rubber piece) , butyl tape, dicor non sag sealant and proper stainless screws..

    Mark where the existing holes are (mark about 3 inches down) so you can avoid putting new screws into the old holes.

    Layout and stick the butyl tape to the side board where the new channel will go, you want the screws to go through the tape.

    Once butyl tape is installed, use some green or blue painters tape to hold the channel in place.. using a small drill bit, pre drill new holes right through channel and into side board to a depth of screw length plus 1/16th. Then install new screws..

    Before hanging awning in new channel, use the dicore and seal along the top edge of channel and side board.. if you want you can also dip screws into the dicor before installing them..
     
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  3. ErinG

    ErinG Member

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    Thank you for that clear and concise breakdown! It really sounds doable. Hopefully the welt isn't totally unusable since they screwed through it.i appreciate it!!!!!
     
  4. ezakoske

    ezakoske Active Member

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    What kind of pop up and roof do you have? Metal, or ABS roof? Depending on what type of roof, the solution to attach the awning track may be different.
     
  5. ErinG

    ErinG Member

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    Honestly, I'm not sure but I think it's an ABS roof.
     
  6. ezakoske

    ezakoske Active Member

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    Can you post a picture of it?
     
  7. ErinG

    ErinG Member

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    Here ya go! Pay no mind to my makeshift rain gutter 0810211044_HDR.jpg
     
  8. ezakoske

    ezakoske Active Member

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    Well, it's bit hard to tell, but that looks to me like it was an ABS roof that has the ABS removed (probably because it was cracking and delaminating from the foam below) and coated with a truck bed liner like Grizzly Grip.
    That is what I did to our popup when we had it, and is pretty typical for folks with ABS roofs due to exposure to the elements (UV, heat, etc).

    I didn't feel comfortable with tape or glue when I replace my awning rail - the awnings just seem too heavy....and there's not much structure to screw into: The original roof was an inner and outer ABS plastic shell, sandwiching a foam core. No wood frame or sides, etc....
    I used dicor tape and also drilled all the way through the roof and attached with through-bolts with washers and nuts on the inside. I probably had 8 or 10 bolts to hold it all together.
    Here's a video to give you an idea of the different roofs and their construction:
     
  9. ErinG

    ErinG Member

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    Yes the roof was coated with rino liner by the previous owners. No clue what they removed, if anything. The awning bag was attached with 14, 2 " screws and some were pulled out completely so something that goes all the way through with the washers/ nuts might be a good option for us since we aren't quite sure what's in there. Any particular length you'd recommended??
     
  10. ezakoske

    ezakoske Active Member

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    I'd suggest drilling a hole through, then poking something like a length of wire through and measuring how long the bolt needs to be. Take into account the thickness of the rail and the washer and bolt on the inside. Then buy the appropriate length of bolt. You don't want it any longer than it needs to be. I also bought little rubber/plastic caps to stick over the end of the bolts inside, just to make sure there weren't any sharp edges to snag on the canvas.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2021
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  11. ErinG

    ErinG Member

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    Yes that's my concern with it.....but knowing I can drill through like that to measure makes it a little easier.
     
  12. Sneezer

    Sneezer Well-Known Member

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    I have a Jayco with an ABS roof. The awning rail IS NOT screwed to the roof. They used some super strong industrial adhesive for the rail, and then a very thin bead of caulk around it. The only screws are fore and aft to help secure the awning keder strip so it doesn't slide out.

    Most of these ABS roofs had ABS as a shell, with foam sandwiched in between the shell. That doesn't give you much for a screw to bite into unless you hit some of the internal framing strusses (if they were used).
     
  13. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    Get a aluminum channel, drill through the roof and bolt it in using a backer plate, use dicore to seal the holes and again around the top of the channel. Done.
     
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