Attempt to fix it myself, or let the dealer?

rwilliek

Active Member
Jan 21, 2014
210
Our N2U 95 Coleman Stony Creek has a couple of lift issues...first it needs height adjustments in one corner.

The other problem is the ratcheting mechanism isn't functioning as it should. Currently we have to crank up the top, and bungie the handle in place...otherwise it slowly lets itself down.

I would consider myself pretty handy....I rebuilt most of the lift system on our previous camper, but the winch assembly was pretty simple.

I'm a little intimidated by the crank assembly on the Coleman after looking at the parts breakdown.

Anyone willing to walk me through opening the crank assembly to figure out what is wrong with it....or should I take it to the dealer and relieve myself of the headache?

One of the dealers quoted $50 to inspect, $99/hr to repair plus parts as necessary.
 

smit1088

Super Active Member
Mar 15, 2011
1,582
Stillwater, MN
I think it is such a simple lift system that you should try and find the problem and fix it yourself.

If it is just lowering after it is raised then it is the brake that isn't holding. Not to many issues that will allow that. It could be as simple as someone sprayed lube where it shouldn't be.

Take a look at the parts manual. Page 4 has the parts explosion and you can work from there.

http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37743407/COLEMAN%20PARTS%20BOOK/1995/1995%20coleman%20destiny%20series.pdf

I'm pretty familar with this system since my first Coleman let itself down the way you are talking. I found out the pressure plate had cracked in half. I took it apart and cleaned/lubed the system. Glued the pressure plate back together (dealer was to far to drive and pick a new one up) and it worked like a top. When I did that I adjusted the top height, found out I had a shear pin sheared so the top raised too high. That put too much stress on my canvas tearing the arrowhead.

All in all I had a few hours under the trailer to figure it all out. 20 cents for a new shear pin, a few bucks for brake cleaner and grease. I think all the tools I needed were a socket, screwdriver, hammer, box wrench, punch, grease and cleaner. Nothing very complicated.

If you dig into it I will be more than willing to offer advice as most folks on here will do also.

Good luck and happy camping.
 

Raycfe

Waterford Ct.
Oct 3, 2007
18,209
Waterford, Ct
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Before I would even tow it out of your yard, take the cover off. Part number 11 and check the movement of the parts that make up number 18. If it is rusty and sticking, pawl should move freely, free it up with some WD40, etc. Just do the pawl, keep oil away from parts 5 and 6.

As for the height adjustment...... move the pulley for that low cable. Easy to do and the first thing to try.

I like to spend my money wisely and the RV shop to me is the last place to throw it to.
 

nudib

Member
Jan 13, 2014
76
As per the peeps before me. I'm in the middle of rebuilding my lower crank. I would check that part number 18. Being you can bungee the crank and that stops it from lowering I would say that the pins and whiffletree is good. There is a spring that brings that stopper ( what ever it is called) back against the teeth of the gear. Check there first. Easy fix.

As for your height adjustment, moving your pulleys gives you 1 1/2 in height. Would do only the corner needed. If you need less than 1 1/2 in I would use the nuts on the whiffletree. Both methods are in the manuals on the site.

Hope this help, these once taken apart are pretty easy to work on. CAMP ON!
 

rwilliek

Active Member
Jan 21, 2014
210
Soooo I finally dove in and disassembled everything, after grinding off a couple of stripped nuts I found the pawl was dry, but not the issue.

I took the pawl apart, sand, buffed, greased, and reassembled and finally got the spring loaded correctly.

The pressure plate isn't holding enough friction to drive the gear, which in turn doesn't ratchet the gear or hold it in place while the top is up.....

So now to delve deeper and get the parts...should I order only the pressure plate or the entire rebuild kit ($120 vs $10)
 

smit1088

Super Active Member
Mar 15, 2011
1,582
Stillwater, MN
If the pressure plate is all in one piece then you can clean all the parts and reuse them.
Get some brake cleaner and clean the system. Sand the pressure plate and the mating surfaces. This should make the sytem hold just fine. You have to make sure to keep these parts clean of any oil or grease.
 

rwilliek

Active Member
Jan 21, 2014
210
I'll give that a shot as soon as I get a little time to disassemble that section....I'm assuming I have to push the roll pin out to get that section apart?
 

nudib

Member
Jan 13, 2014
76
Yes you will have to punch out the pin closest to the rear and then you should be able to pull that off. I just did mind last weekend. I had to drill a hole in the frame so i could get my punch straight to punch it out. Made in a lot easier. but if it is just your plate. you won`t have to pull the drive. you should be able to pull it all apart. I took my drive out because i bought a rebuild kit. Of course mine is a 99 coleman/fleetwood tour series. Hope that helps. CAMP ON !
 

smit1088

Super Active Member
Mar 15, 2011
1,582
Stillwater, MN
You only have to remove the roll pin from the Gold Extension Tube to get to the nut holding it on. Push that out, Remove the nut, turn the Gold Extension Tube counter clockwise to remove that. I am pretty sure you have to get to the bolts that are inder the wiffle tree cover to disassemble further. So remove the wiffle tree cover, remove the 4 bolts holding the crank housing on. Then you can take the plates off. The drive shaft can be left in place and cleaned on the camper. Clean all the parts good with brake cleaner, sand mating surfaces and reassemble.

When you put it all back together keep everything clean. You can spray a dab of lube on the spring of the pawl. Also when you put the gold extension tube on I always add a dab of grease on the threads to keep them moving properly. If you look at the system, the gold extension tube needs to move a bit to snug up the friction disc and hold the top up, but it has to back off to let the pawl slip and the roof to lower.

Easy as that. Have fun. :)
 

rwilliek

Active Member
Jan 21, 2014
210
Attempted to disassmble the lower crank today...the nut holding the extension tube on is rusted beyond what I could budge today.

I'm soaking it in PB Blaster, and I need to get a larger screw driver to remove the nut.
 




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