Atwood furnace blows but no ignition

Discussion in 'Heating / Cooling Systems' started by MaeKay, Jun 9, 2018.

  1. MaeKay

    MaeKay Well-Known Member

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    304A440C-FFB4-422D-BBE4-09E444E76CD2.jpeg I’ve read through a lot of threads on this issue but I still have questions. My furnace worked in March (both shore power and 12V). Now it will blow but then no ignition. I don’t even hear the click click click of it trying to light. (Double checked gas is on...had the gas stove running for a bit...)

    It’s an Atwood 7916-II

    It did this in March and all I had to do was press the reset button. That’s not working now.

    If I need to check a sail switch, where is that? If I need to clean spiderwebs from a vent...where is that? And if I need to replace the DSI board...I think I know where that is.

    Last question: what is that red light blinking on what I think is the DSI board. Could that be something as simple as a fuse? (It’s behind the back of the board, and I’m afraid to take it apart if I don’t have to)
     
  2. MaeKay

    MaeKay Well-Known Member

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    Ok, did more digging by googling “flashing light” and discovered this from a post from 2009. The blinking is a diagnostics code.

    Limit switch/Airflow problems 1 flash with 3-second pause
     
  3. MaeKay

    MaeKay Well-Known Member

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    My guess is a hornets nest in the vent. I’m going to attempt to unscrew it and clean it out. But it looks sealed with caulk so we’ll see. I’ll keep you posted with a running commentary...lol
     
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  4. Dback2k4

    Dback2k4 Active Member

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    If you've done any battery maintenance recently make sure your + and - aren't reversed, that will cause the fan to spin (in reverse) but not open the sail switch. Otherwise could be a blockage of gas. Careful with those hornets.... nasty buggers!
     
  5. MaeKay

    MaeKay Well-Known Member

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    Back in March we had our terminals switched. And it blew a 20amp fuse which we replaced. Now I’m pretty sure we have it correct but it never hurts to check. (Hence making sure the gas was actually on. Haha). Black is positive and white is negative, correct? And right now it’s even plugged into shore power.
     
  6. MaeKay

    MaeKay Well-Known Member

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    You’re telling me! They’re everywhere in our neighborhood. They love to build nests on our door frames or the kids swing set. And we already knocked one off the roof seal of the trailer and I do see one inside the vent, the start of a tiny one.

    Blessedly we’ve only experienced one sting in the almost 5 years we’ve lived here. My son is a champ and also not allergic.
     
  7. MaeKay

    MaeKay Well-Known Member

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    Yep. It’s caulked. Should it be? If so it’s a fairly easy thing to recaulk. And if so, what type of caulk is best?
     

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  8. MaeKay

    MaeKay Well-Known Member

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    Hopefully the culprit. 4611A27F-5048-4883-A602-7BD21DA60E0B.jpeg
     
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  9. MaeKay

    MaeKay Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, didn’t think it would be that easy. Also didn’t think something that small would cause a problem.
     
  10. MaeKay

    MaeKay Well-Known Member

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    Now to figure out how to disassemble and check the voltage on the limit switch and sail switch. I kind of feel empowered. I’ve never done anything like this.
     
  11. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    Is it a limit switch like on a regular furnace? If so it has a button to reset it. They go bad a lot also, and are like only 3 bucks to buy. I wouldent bother with the voltage , eaither it works or dosent. Easy test to see if that's the problum is to by pass the switch. I was never good with a volt meeter.
     
  12. MaeKay

    MaeKay Well-Known Member

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    In the very first post the picture shows a black/brown switch on the right, above the DSI board. Is that what you’re talking about? Because I’ve reset it a few times.
     
  13. MaeKay

    MaeKay Well-Known Member

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    Actually I just found this diagram. The switch I mentioned is the circuit breaker switch.

    http://pdfstream.manualsonline.com/c/c950e617-f467-4c97-8261-b1313b50eac8.pdf

    The limit switch is #18. Still have to take it apart and try to find that little sucker. (We had to make a run to the grocery store). And I have someone hopefully coming to look at buying it in a couple hours!
     
  14. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    This is the one I'm familiar with, but there are other styles. So Google the brand of furnace and limit switch to see what you have.
     
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  15. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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  16. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    Ok cool, progress is progress. Like I said if it resets and works, your good to go. If it doesn't try to bypass it, just run a temporary wire from one side to the other, if it works you need a new switch, if it dosent it's something else.
     
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  17. MaeKay

    MaeKay Well-Known Member

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    That seems like a simple option! I’ve never wired anything but I’ve been watching my husband and our neighbor recently. Here goes!
     
  18. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    You ahouldent have to take a lot of stuff apart to get at it. In a regular furnace anyway,
     
  19. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    You can just use a price of wire and attach it to the nut, or buy a cheap jumper from harbor freight with alligator clips.
     
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  20. MaeKay

    MaeKay Well-Known Member

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    How does one unscrew a screw with this little of clearance? About an inch? I’ve seen bent screw drivers before but not ones this short. I’m attempting to unscrew it with pliers but that’s not working at the moment.

    But once I get it I screwed, yes, there were only 2 screws holding it in place.
     

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