bed ends affecting the door from latching

Discussion in 'Miscellaneous Repairs & Maintenance' started by nexus, Dec 29, 2012.

  1. nexus

    nexus New Member

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    Yes, I agree with the top drawer welder........I own a business that does the special effects for Hollywood films shot in Toronto and my welder welds mortars to cars and such so we can flip them over with explosives...........I trust him to make sure he beefs it up!

    I am going out to the storage facility tonight with him to test a few things and see if all this brainstorming worked :)

    I will let you all know the details and results.
     
  2. nexus

    nexus New Member

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    Problem solved!

    Hey guys! So taking everything into consideration (thank you all) and really doing some homework and all that jazz.......here is what we did and the results.......

    I don`t know all the lingo yet, so excuse me in advance.

    So, the problem was the frame flex. The PUPs all have swing down stabilizers, but these legs themselves are only good within 1/16 of a inch (according to Starcraft / Jayco). Considering this, one end to the other can be up to 1/8 inch flex in the frame and an additional flex in the center from the axle area. With a 1/8 inch tolerance the definitely enough to create a 3/16 or bigger gap in the side walls at the top rail. This makes sense. Especially on a 20 yr old trailer. Even on a 5 yr old trailer.

    What we did. We took scissor jacks and grinded the frame and the jack cradles. We then welded the jacks to the outside frame rail on the length side of the trailer. We put them about 7 inches in from the bumper and the same on the front giving stability to the very outside of the frame.

    We opened the trailer WITHOUT the jacks and when a friend got into the bunk end.......door opened!

    We then initiated the jacks till they were snug but not lifting the trailer. We then gave the back two a half turn more. 3 guys in the bunk end and no door pop :) door doesn`t stick either.

    Tested the same at the opposite end to make sure we didn`t just get the same problem but at the other end. No issues.

    We then put people in both bunk ends in random sequences ( 2 and 1, 3 and 2, etc). No problems.

    So, in my world, this problem has been identified and fixed!

    Unless your floor is rotting like others have shown, this would most likely be a common problem. And here is the answer.

    Hey Starcraft - perhaps you should pay attention to this flaw!
     
  3. Flyfisherman

    Flyfisherman New Member

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    They did so a little later down the road.

    Good to know what the problem was, especially for the next guy.
     
  4. Wrenchgear

    Wrenchgear Near Elmira, Southern Ontario

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    Good job.
     
  5. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    couple things to check:

    [list type=decimal]
    [*]Make sure the extended bunk is fully supported by the bed rails and that it isn't resting on the end wall, forcing it to bow outward under load. If it is, this puts undue pressure on the rear edge of your floor where the exterior panel is attached with staples. The staples pull out, the edge of the floor collapses and the short sidewall panel can rock back to open the door.
    [*]Make sure the edge of the floor under the short side wall panel isn't compressing under load and that the wall panel isn't flexing. Viking tries to prevent this by installing a steel frame inside that wall panel. Kinda works, sorta...
    [*]Check that the bunk and bed rails are straight and that the bunk frame isn't warped when extended.
    [/list]

    Here's what I ended up doing to secure the front and rear endwall panels (skins) to the underside of the floor. They're much more solid now.
    [​IMG]

    You might also find some helpful info and photos in my resto thread. Click the camera under my name to go there.
     
  6. nexus

    nexus New Member

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    problem finally found. turns out the cabinet has pulled away from the floor. not rotted, just screws pulled through. this is causing the cabinet to lift away about 1/2 inch and of course the wall a bit too. The rail that the bunk slides on is then flexing with it. I need to re-secure the upright stud / metal frame to the trailer main frame. An L bracket of some sort is in order.
     
  7. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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  8. nexus

    nexus New Member

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    Sweet! Great idea. I have 2 or 3 of these kickin around.

    So, you opened your cabinet and secured it to one of the wall uprights (stud) and then screwed it through the floor and into the frame with self tappers?

    Only one question.......how did you / do you know where an upright was?? Its not like its 16 inch centers like a house. My door hinge side has an upright, but I can`t use that one for certain design reason........
     
  9. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Exactly right. I used 2" self-tappers (Drill-x tips).
    Right again, it's a pain but if you remove the drawers and take the countertop off the cabinet, you'll be able to locate the wall members by looking at the vertical staples in the wall panelling and have enough room to work.

    During my rebuild and in my infinite wisdom (blind, dumb luck), I'd added a wall stud right where the cabinet attaches to the wall and used the existing cabinet framing to mount the bracket on, so it worked out well.

    Here's a link to the page showing the installed bracket.
    http://www.popupportal.com/index.php?topic=56883.msg505516#msg505516
     
  10. ChocoChock01

    ChocoChock01 On the road aagaain See Rallies below;

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    On my 2008 Fleetwood Saratoga, I found half the screws holding the side panels to the floor from the underside either missing and or loose.


    I have since added screws between the existing ones and added washers to distribute the holding area. Will continue to monitor and report back.
     

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