BedWedgies

Discussion in 'Featured Products' started by PopUpSteve, Sep 3, 2011.

  1. ghacker

    ghacker Active Member

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    The replacements are hollow. The originals are solid and they still break easily. Had a machinest make up new ones for $20 using aluminum stock. They'll never break. Using UHMW tape on the block's surface so they glide SMOOTH.
     
  2. smit1088

    smit1088 Well-Known Member

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    What are hollow? The replacement bed slides, that are made of solid UHMW plastic just like the original? I guess I'll watch the replacements on mine to see how long before "They break easily"

    Aluminum guide blocks.... I hope your tape sticks.
     
  3. brucesmith

    brucesmith New Member

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    I purchased a set of 4 from you about two months ago. After installing them we took the camper on on one trip for a couple of days around labor day. I came home cleaned pup and returned to garage. Yesterday I got camper out to load for trip I am currently on but I noticed that the bedwedgies appear to be wearing down my aluminum track. The areas that have the most wear are the places on the track where the bedwedgies rest when beds are slid in. I sent a note to popupsteve and he said he had never heard of this before. For the trip today I took paint stir sticks and slid them between the track and wedgies and when we set up camp I noticed the wood was worn down. I can send pictures.
     
  4. EV2

    EV2 Member

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    We have seen no wear of any kind from properly installed wedge ends as they are the same size as the plastic which showed no firm contact with the rail, but if you believe they are causing a problem, please remove and return for a full refund. I will pm you with an address for sending photos and making a return if you choose.

    This is very puzzling as the Wedgie just rides in the end of the rail and does not even contact the other rail as it travels next to it and does not rest on it when pushed inside for travel. It should be the exact size of your rail end and should not protrude beyond the width and height of the rail, extending the rounded and sloped end to protect the fabric and screen from the end of the rail on the inside end. Did you install the same way as the plastic one it replaced?
     
  5. ghacker

    ghacker Active Member

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    I guess I could have been clearer. The replacement bed rests are plastic and hollow. Not one solid piece as the originals are. I had a machinest make up a set of 5 (1 extra) for $20 out of aluminum stock. They can be screwed down just like the originals. The UHMW tape goes on top and @1/4" on the bevel side.
     
  6. ChocoChock01

    ChocoChock01 On the road aagaain See Rallies below;

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    they are easy to replace (except for Front Right on the Highlanders because its difficult to get a wrench behind it) and once in place no more concern on the Alum. ones breaking!
     
  7. everett.devore

    everett.devore New Member

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    I have a fleetwood victory 05 i would be interested in some bed wedgies. Please let me know when there available. thenks :)


    [PU] [PUT] [CP]
     
  8. Tacoma_Jim

    Tacoma_Jim Member

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    I use to get bed wedgies from my older brother, when I was a kid. Come to think of it, he did on a fishing trip a few years ago. [LOL] [LOL] [LOL]
     
  9. ghacker

    ghacker Active Member

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  10. carolinalady247

    carolinalady247 Hi , I'm Linda from South Carolina

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    where can I get these bed wedges and what is the cost for them , my beds won't lock in place or if they do , I have not found out yet how to , any help will be greatly appreciated [CP]
     
  11. ghacker

    ghacker Active Member

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    See my above post. There's a link to purchase them. This is a 3rd party vendor; i.e. the originals are plastic and these are aluminum. $80/set of 4.

    The wedgies don't lock your bunkends in place. That's done by the supports. The wedgies function is to ease the bunkend rails into the side rails upon closing.
     
  12. Camp-N-Nuts

    Camp-N-Nuts KrustyKamper

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    Aren't they also "stops"? Keeping the bed from coming out too far. And I think they're bumpers for when they hit the rails on the opposite side. [RTM]
    (For $20 each I would be fabricating them myself! [2C] )
     
  13. ChocoChock01

    ChocoChock01 On the road aagaain See Rallies below;

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    $80 is a good price. Unless you are looking for a project to machine, between reverse engineering, material, set-up, machine time and tool wear AND your Time, $80 is spent pretty fast!
     
  14. ChocoChock01

    ChocoChock01 On the road aagaain See Rallies below;

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  15. Camp-N-Nuts

    Camp-N-Nuts KrustyKamper

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    For $20 I would want them gold plated or at least anodized! [:D]
     
  16. joesiohd

    joesiohd New Member

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    HI Larry, I changed three of my wedgies no problem, any tips on how to get to the curb side front one?
     
  17. EV2

    EV2 Member

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    Although there are multiple methods, here is the one that I currently use for the nut location that is hard to access.

    As you know, when the bed slides out, it extends two rail sections. I keep the section that has the wedge completely in - in other words, slide the bed out only on the other section, so that the section that has the wedge is fully retracted into the camper. This will then allow quite a bit of flex on that section. I take a small, regular screwdriver and gently slip it behind the rail near the wedge end and it springs in just enough to slide the screwdriver down behind to temporarily hold the rail flexed away from the other. You now have a gap that is wide enough to get an open end wrench into the gap and onto the nut. After installation, and removal of your small open end wrench, you can slide the screwdriver out and the rail will spring back. Just make sure that the bed and other rail are extended fully away from the section with the wedge, and that section is fully in to allow for the room to spring it in without bending it.

    Others may disagree and do a great amount of additional work removing the bed to avoid flexing the rail, and I do not dispute that method. But, while we were testing, we did this multiple times on my Fleetwood Evolution with no problem caused, so it was quick and easy. Proceed at your own discretion.
     
  18. joesiohd

    joesiohd New Member

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    That sounds like a perfect solution. I can do that!

    Thanks
     
  19. mv520

    mv520 Member

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    I use a box end wrench to hold the nut to get it off. Then, to put it back on (since as you discovered you can't exactly get a finger back there to hold the nut in place), I hot melt glue the nut to a small rectangle of cardboard that has its small dimension just less than the height of the rail channel. I hold the cardboard (with my fingers aft of the end of the rail) so as to position the nut on the backside of the hole, start the screw, and once the threads grab, rip the cardboard/hot melt glue off, and use a box end wrench for final tightening. Hopefully that description makes some sense, or gives some thoughts on what to try.
     
  20. jcridge

    jcridge New Member

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    Purchased a set of these BedWedgies last year. They are great and the price isn't terrible considering I've already replaced a pair of the plastic ones that broke and then they broke again. No more broken plastic bed rail slider ends for me. [:D]
     

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