Bigger Wheels = Longer Stabilizers?

Blocks are probably going to be cheaper and easier. (IMO)
Look under yours and see if they are welded on or bolted on. That will get you started in the right direction if you decide to replace them

 

I've always used blocks under the stabs no matter what trailer we've owned at the time, be it a popup or travel trailer. Stabs will always be more stable if deployed at no more than a 45 degree angle - the closer they are to 90 degrees the less stability they'll offer.

 

how do you figure?

 

We too have found that our stabs are more, well, stable, if not extended close to the max; both sets of the ones we've dealt with have been the crank down ones, not the scissor-style. (We used stack jacks on the first pup.) Even though we've had sand pads on the stabs on both our 2nd pup and small TT, using Lynx blocks under them on many surfaces is helpful anyway, to keep them from shifting or sinking. Our TT came with a factory lift of a couple of inches, and we had another inch added when we had to get a new axle a year and a half ago. We just use more Lynx under the stabilizers and tongue jack as necessary. The tongue jack is also more stable if not extended out too far.
We have 4 sets of Lynx blocks, plus caps and chocks - we use them for leveling in most sites, and under the stabilizers and tongue jack just about all the time. On level concrete pads, we don't use them under the stabs, but we still use 4-5 under the tongue jack, it's just easier. There have been sites where we use 5 (+cap) under each of the 4 stabs.

 

Physics. The lower the angle of the stabilizer to the ground (less than 90*), the lower the balance point. Therefor, the greater the stability.

Higher angle = Higher Balance point = Higher Instability

 

I keep spare 2X6 and 4X4 blocks in a milk crate in the truck bed just in case I need them I also keep homemade chocks and leveling boards in the crate.
I also use 2X6 blocks to go under the stabilizers and this keeps the stabs. from sinking into the ground

 

Similar issue for us when we did the "axle flip" - our stabs are maxed out on level ground, but if we are on a sloped spot, we need to block the high end. I always carry 4 4x6 blocks cut to about 12" long. I'm planning on getting new stabs at some point.

 

When I replaced my torsion axle with a standard spring and then upped the wheels from 13" to 15", I raised my floor 9" IIRC. So I made some stacking stands that kind of look like 4 legged jack stands. I made them 10" tall so I didn't have to extend the stabs as far.

As far as angle and stability - Take two yard sticks. Hold the top ends together and separate the bottoms by about 4". Now wiggle them in that spread direction. Now spread the bottoms out to 3 feet (the yard sticks will be at 45 degrees). Now try to wiggle...

 

Blocks

 

I replaced the stabs with 20 inch scissors jacks. It took little over an hour to change out 4. Now I don't have to carry a ton of boards. Don't remember who the vendor was I bought from, just on flea bay.

 

It's the center of gravity of the camper you need to be concerned with. A level camper is more stable than a leaning one.

 

You are comparing apples to oranges. I believe the OP was referring only to the stabilizing. Level first, stabilize second. They are separate actions. Stabilizers aren't levelers.

Stabilizers, if deployed correctly, don't change the center of gravity. When a camper is level, the center of gravity is a constant.

 

Perhaps I didn't understand the condition properly. If the op was referring to the angle where the stabilizers meet the ground then I was indeed an orange in a bushel of apples.

 

If you block it with a wide base, it shouldn't be a problem. Personally, I would replace the stabs. Messing with making sure the base is stable is just another thing to deal with.

 

Example - Blocking your stabs with 2x8's or 2x12's would be more stable that 2x4's.

 

I'd replace 'em. Still carry blocks though unless you're always at RV parks or KOAs or that sort of place.