Bike Rack on a Fleetwood E3

Discussion in 'Cargo Carriers / Bike Racks / Other Storage Option' started by grcooperjr, Aug 2, 2007.

  1. RonnieH

    RonnieH New Member

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    So how do you do it at a scale to get the most accurate info?

    Do you weigh the truck by itself, then hook the trailer up but only put the truck on the scale, not the trailer and get that weight and the difference would be the tongue weight?

    Ronnie - Houston, TX
    **Hopefully a future owner of a Coleman E3 or E4!!!!!!
     
  2. grcooperjr

    grcooperjr Lunatic

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    Yeap that would work. Weigh the truck axles only with the trailer coupled. the re-weigh the truck by its self. Subtract the two and thats the tongue weight.

    We are lucky here, we got State truck scales all over the place the loggers use. The state leaves em on when they close the station so they can be used. saves alot of time going to a truck stop.

    Ray Cooper - Tigard OR. - Skype id: GRCOOPERJR
    <img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_suv.gif border=0 align=middle alt="Tow Vehicle"> 2007 Hummer H3 - <img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_pu.gif border=0 align=middle alt="PopUp"> 2007 Fleetwood Evolution E3
    The boys & one Girl... Katie, Buddy, Toby, Ralphie, Sammy, & D.B."Cooper"
     
  3. RonnieH

    RonnieH New Member

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    Yea there's a few scales around here at the truck stops. There's also the big weigh stations that the highway patrol operate, not sure if they would let someone pull in there and use the scale though. might stick to the truck stops.

    This post brought up a good point on the bike rack. The E3 that I saw at the show had the bike rack on the roof with bikes on it but of course the camper was expanded. Looked cool and functional but you're right, if that things 6 ft tall closed then it would be a heck of a chore to get the bikes on and off of it. I'm right at 6ft so a step ladder of some sort would be required.

    Ronnie - Houston, TX
    **Hopefully a future owner of a Coleman E3 or E4!!!!!!
     
  4. grcooperjr

    grcooperjr Lunatic

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    Yeap.... The rear bike rack on my E3 was one of my best mods. It wont work for everyone but it sure does work well on the E3 and E4's. Another good choice I made was adding the Thule Revolver as the rack. While it's not the cheapest, it is the strongest I've seen. Plus a side benefit of leaving the bikes mounted and locked on the rack and then swinging em to the side to set up the trailer.

    Ray Cooper - Tigard OR. - Skype id: GRCOOPERJR
    <img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_suv.gif border=0 align=middle alt="Tow Vehicle"> 2007 Hummer H3 - <img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_pu.gif border=0 align=middle alt="PopUp"> 2007 Fleetwood Evolution E3
    The boys & one Girl... Katie, Buddy, Toby, Ralphie, Sammy, & D.B."Cooper"
     
  5. jnjsawyer

    jnjsawyer New Member

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    Hey guys!

    We too have been trying to solve the "how to bring bikes with us" question. After reading so much controversy on PUP over rear mounting, we'd given that up as we have a fairly common setup on our PU. It isn't as rough and rugged looking as your E2. We discussed the situation with my brother, a non-PU guy, who knows trailers and is very down to earth. He asks us why we aren't going to just rear mount it. We replied "tongue weight." He goes out to the drive way, lifts thse stab and attempts to lift the tongue off the ground. He then has me and my children stand on the rear bumper (adding approx 200 lbs) and attempts to lift again. He then declares that in his mind we would not mess up tongue weight.

    Then yesterday, we brought the PU into the dealer for some maintenance and posed the question to them. Would it be a really bad idea to weld a hitch receiver to the rear so we can carry bikes using the bike rack we already own? He looks around back there, asks a few questions about our design and exactly what we're welding to and what everything weighs. He then says that he can't see any reason why that wouldn't work just fine.

    we haven't made this modification yet. But from what I'm hearing on my end, this may actually be the answer that, it seems lots of us are searching for.

    I completely agree that no one should go out and start making modifications without research and planning. Safety is absolutely paramount. I also value the wise replies from this community of experience.

    My good news is that the rear mount may be a fairly simple solution!

    Oh, and I can pick up a hitch receiver from any salvage yard for around $20!

    Jen, Joe, and the boys.....
     
  6. grcooperjr

    grcooperjr Lunatic

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    Well....

    Some PUP's will handle it and some won't. The two biggest things to remember is:

    1....When it's all said and done, Tongue should be AT LEAST 12% of the trailer gross. The less it is, the more sway that can be introduced.

    2....Adding a receiver and bike rack adds a big lever arm to the rear frame. Where most have issues is this lever, as the rig goes down the road creates a unbelievable load on the frame. The C channel versions will just rip apart. The box frames normally hold up. Most MFG's don't use a boxed frame and opt for the C Channel.


    Now can it be modded, Maybe, It would be hard for me to say without seeing it. I can tell you I would never do what I did on a C channel version without major moding....

    Just my <img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_twocents.gif border=0 align=middle alt="My 2 Cents"> worth... Your mileage may vary....

    Ray Cooper - Tigard OR. - Skype id: GRCOOPERJR
    <img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_suv.gif border=0 align=middle alt="Tow Vehicle"> 2007 Hummer H3 - <img src=../Images/icons/icon_smile_pu.gif border=0 align=middle alt="PopUp"> 2007 Fleetwood Evolution E3
    The boys & one Girl... Katie, Buddy, Toby, Ralphie, Sammy, & D.B."Cooper"
     
  7. jeepmaniowa

    jeepmaniowa New Member

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    Well, I finally received my 82201 hitch for the E3. Now I just have to break out the welder and attach to frame. :)

    The electric/propane water heat mod will be my next addition.
     
  8. Flyfisherman

    Flyfisherman New Member

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    I think you will find that most popups DO have a full boxed main frame. It will be that a lot of pup's have the "A" frame ... (or the trailer tongue) ... that is the channel version.
     
  9. grcooperjr

    grcooperjr Lunatic

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    Actually, Most don't. Almost all of the newer Fleetwood/Coleman's do and a few of the Starcrafts do. The majority of the others don't to save weight. They'll reinforce the area around the spring/axle attachment points so it will be strong and the rest they try to skimp as much as possible.

    I have seen quite a few C rail type frames on Pups over the years riped apart by receivers added to the back. And bike racks have to be about the worst for riping up frames because of the way it acts like a lever.

    I think if you ask here and in other forums you'll find the same answers.
     
  10. grcooperjr

    grcooperjr Lunatic

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    Be sure to add some pictures of the mod's your doing to your E3.....
     
  11. Flyfisherman

    Flyfisherman New Member

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    Gee that's funny ... my Starcraft has the boxed frame, so does my neighbor's '03 Starcraft Star Shuttle series ... in fact his has the boxed frame tongue whereas mine has the "C" channel. And I have a fishing buddy who has an '06 Jayco who I just called and his has a full boxed frame, too. What's more, I have serveral sales brochures from past RV shows ... Palomino, Rockwood, Coachman ... and they all show pics of thier boxed frames ... albeit Rockwood and Palomino refer to theirs as "tubular", but it's the same ... boxed.

    Now, I've never seen or heard of any the popular brands of popups on the market today that have "C" channel for the main frame. That would certainly be news to me. Since you say there are ... exactly what brand of popup would that be ...? I'd really like to know.
     
  12. grcooperjr

    grcooperjr Lunatic

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    Hey... What can I say. Thats one of the main selling points of Fleetwood/Coleman was the full box tube frame & no wood used in structural points. There were other items also, but those were the main ones for me. If I remember right they use to have that on there Web site as the main Fleetwood Advantage before FTCA got a hold of em.

    I know my previous trailer was a C rail and a torsion axle. Of course it was a vintage Starcraft. I sold it in 93 as I moved to Michigan. It was a fun trailer but it sure had it's share of issues.
     
  13. Flyfisherman

    Flyfisherman New Member

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    [q





    uote author=grcooperjr link=topic=9864.msg138004#msg138004 date=1243715952]
    Hey... What can I say. Thats one of the main selling points of Fleetwood/Coleman was the full box tube frame & no wood used in structural points. There were other items also, but those were the main ones for me. If I remember right they use to have that on there Web site as the main Fleetwood Advantage before FTCA got a hold of em.

    I know my previous trailer was a C rail and a torsion axle. Of course it was a vintage Starcraft. I sold it in 93 as I moved to Michigan. It was a fun trailer but it sure had it's share of issues.




    W
    [/quote]


    That's been refered to as "Fleetwood saleman's hype".

    But the important thing here is that a lot of mis-information gets into play and circulates around as "fact" when indeed it is not.

    I've had a rear mounted bike rack on my little Starcraft for some years now and it has served me well. But like you posted awhile back, you had jolly well better compensate for the weight forward or it will be sway city ... big time!
     
  14. iamgb1

    iamgb1 Member

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    I know I am reviving a very old thread, but I am looking at doing this same mod (hitch receiver with swing out bike rack) to my Somerset E3 (effectively the same camper as the OP). I was wondering if the OP could describe exactly how you bolted the hitch to the frame? Did you remove the rear bumper so you could get the nuts into the frame tubes, or did you create an access hole? If you removed the rear bumper, how did you re-install it? I ask because the top of my rear bumper appears to be fastened in place with a rivet of some sort (the bottom side attachment looks like a sheet metal screw) and I'm unsure how to replace it if I try to remove it.

    Also, how has the bike rack held up, or have you updated to a newer model? None of the swing out designs are rated for RV use, so wondering if it just works due to the unique geometry of the E3.
     
  15. grcooperjr

    grcooperjr Lunatic

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    I bolted and welded it to the frame. Its a bit overkill welding it... To bolt it, just remove the bumper, Drill the holes and bolt it up. Mine came with all the hardware needed...
     
  16. iamgb1

    iamgb1 Member

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    I've bolted a couple of hitches to cars, so I'm familiar with the process of attaching the hitch to the frame. I was more curious about how you re-attached the bumper. Mine has some rivet looking things holding the top, which I believe I will have to drill out. The question is how or what to replace them with. Perhaps yours was different?
     
  17. grcooperjr

    grcooperjr Lunatic

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  18. grcooperjr

    grcooperjr Lunatic

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  19. adrianpglover

    adrianpglover Active Member

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    Somerset uses a multi stage pop rivet throughout the camper. You can drill out the rivet and replace with either a self tapping screw or similar sized single stage rivet from your local hardware store. Pop rivet tools are cheap (~$30) and can also be picked up at a hardware store. They're very handy to have around when working on these campers.
     
  20. iamgb1

    iamgb1 Member

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    Battery on the back is something I've been thinking about as a future project, especially if I find that I want/need to upgrade to GC2 6V batteries. I'm curious as to the purpose of the swing out spare tire carrier as it doesn't seem to be in the way of anything in its stationary position. Maybe it has to do with your relocated battery? I can't see the pictures you posted: "The link you followed may have expired, or the page may only be visible to an audience you're not in." Not sure if it's because you have them marked private or that I'm not a facebook user.

    I do have a cheap pop rivet device that I picked up recently for another project, but haven't used it yet. For holding the bumper on I think I like the idea of the self tapping screws better, and the hex head screws you described are already holding the bottom side of the bumper anyway. I generally prefer fasteners that are removable.
     

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